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Thread: FAQ: How to Wire an OPUS PSU

  1. #51
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    what connectors come with the opus power supply's? I'm wanting to get rid of this inverter maybe and go with a dc-dc solution.I'm using an AMD Board wich is an ATX of course!Will I have to buy the corresponding connector to go with it as well? What about hooking up hard drives and such,any 4 pin connectors in there? I guess I'm asking what all kind of wiring it comes with the opus?Its pretty pricey so I would hope it comes with wiring.

  2. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by BriansNSane
    what connectors come with the opus power supply's? I'm wanting to get rid of this inverter maybe and go with a dc-dc solution.I'm using an AMD Board wich is an ATX of course!Will I have to buy the corresponding connector to go with it as well? What about hooking up hard drives and such,any 4 pin connectors in there? I guess I'm asking what all kind of wiring it comes with the opus?Its pretty pricey so I would hope it comes with wiring.

    There are 3st. 4pins connections for your harddrive etc.
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  3. #53
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    If a fuse is being used inline right next to the battery, is it necessary for the power distro block to be fused, since the Opus has a fuse of its own as well, or can the power distro block be un-fused? I don't see the benefit of having 3 fuses on the line. I realize it adds another fault-point, but is it really necessary? Also, does having that additional fuse on the line add to resistance in any way?

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  4. #54
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    f a fuse is being used inline right next to the battery, is it necessary for the power distro block to be fused, since the Opus has a fuse of its own as well, or can the power distro block be un-fused?
    Probably not. I won't hurt but you probably don't need it.

    Every time you have some kind of connection and that current passes through a different type of material or gauge of wire, you will have some resistance added but it's negligable in this case. The main thing you want to watch out for is the length of the wire and the gauge. There's a voltage drop for a set distance over the wire due to the resistance and you don't want it to be too much. Use an appropriate gauge (I see a lot of people using 4 or 0 gauge, I used 8 but have a low power install) for the majority of the run and then connect it to the Opus' harness.
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  5. #55
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01black_ac
    If a fuse is being used inline right next to the battery, is it necessary for the power distro block to be fused, since the Opus has a fuse of its own as well, or can the power distro block be un-fused? I don't see the benefit of having 3 fuses on the line. I realize it adds another fault-point, but is it really necessary? Also, does having that additional fuse on the line add to resistance in any way?

    '01
    Quote Originally Posted by Evilbunny1114
    if i am correct the opus 150 has a fuse in it already why would you need another 1 for the first setup option?
    Quote Originally Posted by Quattro
    The fuse in the first option is to protect the wire not the Opus. The wire is what will cause a fire in your car.
    your question has been answered a couple of times already.

    If your using a distro block then u definetly need it to be fused. If you just connecting the opus directly to the battery then you don't need to re-fuse the line again, but in that case u wouldn't need a distro block either. Since u mentioned using a distro block then I'm assuming that you connectin more then just the opus, if so then just follow the diagram.
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  6. #56
    Constant Bitrate 01black_ac's Avatar
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    What I'll be doing is running 10AWG from the battery, with a 10A fuse right next to the battery. The 10AWG will run from the battery to the trunk, where it will hit the distro block. From the distro block, the 10AWG will connect to the 2x16AWG of the Opus120. And the Opus120 has its own 15A fuse.

    So you'd recommend a fused distro block for this?

    Also, should I go with 8AWG wire instead of 10AWG?

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  7. #57
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    Quote Originally Posted by 01black_ac
    What I'll be doing is running 10AWG from the battery, with a 10A fuse right next to the battery. The 10AWG will run from the battery to the trunk, where it will hit the distro block. From the distro block, the 10AWG will connect to the 2x16AWG of the Opus120. And the Opus120 has its own 15A fuse.

    So you'd recommend a fused distro block for this?
    Yes I recommend u use a fused distro block. The problem occurs when going to 16awg from a higer 10awg wire. If a short in the wire occured in the UNFUSED 16 guage wire it may catch fire or cause other damage long before the higher rated main fuse in the 10 guage wire blows. Anytime there is a stepdown in guage size the smaller wire should be fused at or near the stepdown.

    Quote Originally Posted by 01black_ac
    Also, should I go with 8AWG wire instead of 10AWG?
    depends, if your only connecting the opus then you'll be fine with the 10awg wire.
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  8. #58
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    I just got a 30A inline fuse for this setup, and then read that I should not use higher than a 20A... I read this whole thread but can't find the answer, and I just don't know what to search for to find out.

    Someone else asked, but it wasn't answered, so I will ask again:

    Why can't a 30A inline fuse be used? I don't know anything about electrical junk, but if I had to guess... I'd guess that it's because the fuse will not blow when it might need to?

    Thanks

  9. #59
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    Quote Originally Posted by elemeno0pee
    Why can't a 30A inline fuse be used? I don't know anything about electrical junk, but if I had to guess... I'd guess that it's because the fuse will not blow when it might need to?
    Correct.
    Have you looked in the FAQ yet?
    How about the Wiki?



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  10. #60
    Low Bitrate Pepe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by elemeno0pee
    I just got a 30A inline fuse for this setup, and then read that I should not use higher than a 20A... I read this whole thread but can't find the answer, and I just don't know what to search for to find out.

    Someone else asked, but it wasn't answered, so I will ask again:

    Why can't a 30A inline fuse be used? I don't know anything about electrical junk, but if I had to guess... I'd guess that it's because the fuse will not blow when it might need to?

    Thanks
    It's all about matching the correct fuse to the correct gauge of wire. You want to make sure you have a fuse that will blow at or before the wire reaches it's maximum recommended Ampere rating.

    Here's a chart that show the wire gauge selection for 6V and 12V circuits over different lengths of wire. It also has wattage ratings, so you could just match the wattage of your PSU to the length of wire you need to run.

    http://www.rbeelectronics.com/wtable.htm
    (Third chart down)

    These values are just recommendations, as you'll find lots of charts like that all over the net with different recommendations, but I've found this one to be the best IMO. But I always choose wire at least one gauge larger than what it shows, then select a fuse that's more than the current value your going to be drawing and at or below the rating of the wire.

    So for example, if your computer is going to be pulling an average of 20A
    @12V over a length of 20' of wire, the recommended gauge is 12. I would then use 10 gauge (slide down to the next lower gauge on that chart under your length), and add a 30A fuse.

    Sure there will be people that say "I've ran this and this off that gauge wire for years with no problem...", but a little extra resistance in the wire can make a big difference, resulting in the possibility of your wiring catching fire.

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