Lol, mummy clouds......
After what I can remember, the mixing of the two air parts (the cold and the hot) will give a new air temperature relative to the two parts of air's mass and initial temperature. The resulting air mixture (this is how i remember it) will allways be capable of holding the same ammount of water, which means, that some of the moisture will travel from the hot airmass to the cold airmass as an result of mixing them and evening out the temperature.
This is not the same as how clouds are born, as that includes pressure change.
Lol, mummy clouds......
Lez, more widely known as flez1966
What are same model numbers of drives that don't use fluid dynamic bearings? Newegg does not always list this information.
Summer & LCDs Part II
When I used to have my Lilliput TS working in its case, touchscreen would stop wokring after a little while during hot days as the whole monitor got hot. Turning off and on the screen would NOT help. Only solution was to restart the system, which makes me suspect that there's an issue with the TS controller. Since I took this thing apart and mounted the screen into the dash without the case, leaving some space between the LCD panel and the board, I no longer have this issue.
Current Status: For Sale
- 1.5Ghz Toshiba Laptop (available - no screen)
- Indash Motorized 7" VGA TS
- DeLorme GPS (sold)
- Power Inverter (sold)
- Pioneer HU (sold)
I was wondering how the extreme heat in Las Vegas and Phoenix affects the PC's, with it being 117 outside for months and one incident of leaving the windows up with no windowshade, could easily get temps inside the vehicle of 150*...
Any one from these areas?
I've used my PC in 3 different trucks all in summer, 120+ (155+ in car, I know from the digital read out of my alarm) with no problems. However I've run into an issue for anything under 55 degrees my system will not power up until i 'heat it' via the floor heater for a couple of minutes. The colder it is the warmer I need to make it before it'll boot. Now if i have it set to autopower on on DC loss (Epia power on options) it will attempt to boot and make a pop pop pop through my amp, oddly it only does this if trying to auto power on. I think it's my SB Live 24bit PCI card though ot my power supply/itps/dssc triade, possibly my ram, or my board but I don't think it's the Hard drive (WD laptop 80 gig with a FDB) as the popping begins before the video for the POST even kicks on so the board has not even gone into post yet. But if it's 60+ degrees it fires up every time. I usually am parked in the shade but when I have been sitting at Home Depot or what not it's hit 155 to 165 inside the truck but fired right up and ran fine. This is the 2nd year for this WD hard drive, before I was using a Seagate 80 gig 3.5 drive and it was hard mounted to the dash, it is running 100% fine in my wifes computer now.
2K SVT Lightning, Some things and the usual truck pc, now with slot load dvd rom and ECM Data logging.
05 Scion xA
I used to have a similar problem where the screen wouldn't turn on on cold days unless I put the heat on for a while... but then after messing with some wiring I found out, it was the power source I tapped into and not the actual screen. I now have the screen powered directly from the battery and I don't have problems anymore....
well, as far at the heat, I live in Texas, and for the last month it has been 100+ strait, I have yet to have a problem with my pc.
AMD 64Bit XP 3800/1 gig ddr-400/8" lilliput TS/200 gig SATA drive/sprint megillin wireless/pharos 360GPS
"I swear to God officer, I use it for gps!"
Edit: my keyboard didnt fare to well thou. It warped slightly and now its bowed upward. But who cares, it was $10 for the wireless kb and mouse combo and Iv used it only once.
Theoretically, all electronic circuitboards suffer from a thermal stress cycle fatique. As things get heat up and cool down, they expand and shrink. Circuit board expands and shrinks, and the components (especially those Surface Mounted IC's) expands and shrinks. Do this many times, soldier joints will break and the board will stop working. One of the reason why some critical electronics are left on all the time, even if it's not used, so they do not experience thermal stress cycles.
Thermal cycle is one of the toughest criteria that Vehicle electronic component manufacturers have to consider. Anybody can make Anything work on the bench. That's Easy. But will it work at 120C? Will it survive thermal cycle?
I have had two laptops (Serendipididly, both Compaq) fail in 2 years due to thermal cycle. Video Chip failed in one (X1000), and some bridge chip failed on the other (EVO something). Apparently, this is fairly common on Compaq laptops.
With this in mind, I have a question.
Most of us always tear things down and upgrade all the time, all too often. So who has the CarPC installed and used on daily basis for the longest time (without altering the setting) in this forum? We should make a poll on this.