The Monsoon will continue to play until you shut the car off. Then it requires a signal to start the amp again.
Hmmmmm, mine sounded just as good as my headunit with my laptop.
Just out of curiosity i took off the power to the monsoon box and the music still played, I thought that was odd. But when i went back in my car later (still no power to the monsoon box) i had a clicking in my speakers, turned on my laptop and no music. Plugged the power back in and its all good. Big thanks again for the write up! this works great.
Is it possible the polarity on your setup is incorrect?
Just a thought
I am still wondering why it sounds so bad. I really don't want to go back to a headunit! Please someone help me...
I'm a total noob at this, so please excuse me if I overlook something or just don't flat out get it.
My question is, to get the +12v to signal the amp to turn on and off, would it be safe/easy to connect this to the accessory fuse in the fuse panel?
In theory, this wouldn't drain the battery or have any negative effect, because that line only gets power when the key is in the ignition in the "accessory" or "on" positions, right?
I would run it to the carnetix P1900 but that's maxed out by the Mac Mini, Touch Screen, and powered USB hub (using the optional P5V +5v). Also, if it makes any difference, this is in a 2000 Jetta GLS and as stated, Mac Mini (PowerPC) and carnetix P1900. Thanks!
I also have another question about the Monsoon harness.
I have my wires gathered in four groups, L+, L-, R+, R-. I'm not sure how to attach the female RCA plugs. Do I splice the L+ and L- wires together, and then splice that into the RCA wire (same goes for the right side I'd assume)? If I did this, I'd end up with 4 wires from the Monsoon plug (LR+, LR-, LF+, LF-) spliced together, and then spliced to the RCA to give me a "Left Side" RCA connection (and again, repeat for the right side). I'd then connect the "Left Side" and "Right Side" RCAs from the Monsoon harness to the project box using the patch cable.
Is this all correct? Again I apologize for the newbieness and appreciate any help! Thanks!
Originally Posted by thanassius
You have 4 "wires", L+, L-, R+, R-. You have two RCA jacks, a left and a right. Each RCA jack has a connection for + (the center), and a connection for -, (the shield, or the thing that's not the center). I don't know what your RCA jacks look like. Did you just cut an RCA cable? If so, the one wire is +, the braided shield it -. If you're using just jacks like you buy at radio shack, then there's a center connection point and an outer connection point.
Do take the L+ and L-, and one RCA connector, the + goes to to center wire or connection point, the - goes to the braid/shield or outer connection point. Repeat for the R+/R- and the other RCA jack.
Status: VM GTI sold, got out of the CarPC tinkering hobby, but I still think about getting back in.
Thank you so much. I haven't had time to work on it for quite a while because life was riding shotgun, but I think that was good, because I got my brain away from it for a month and now I understand exactly what you mean. Yes, i did just cut the ends of an RCA cable, but I bought some female RCA plugs from radio shack tonight and wired it up as you said.
Hey does anyone know if I can just use the 5v side of the atx to power it on. I don't think I can afford another 12v gone. Whatever.
The Ninja CarPC
160GB Desktop HDD
Slim Cd-rw/DVD Drive
7" Lilliput TS
PCI Wifi (being replaced by USB)
2 Headrest Audiobahn 5.6" lcd
2005 MKIV Jetta a.k.a. The Ninja
That sounds like it would work. Just remember that you are now connecting your computer power supply to your audio system. I wouldn't do it, just out of principle (more things to diagnose if something is wrong), but it would probably work.
Radio Shack sells 5v linear regulators for like $3. I'd pick one of those up and hook it to your car's 12v.
yeah i was thinking of doing the same thing after i already hooked up 12V, but im too happy with it working now so im not touching it...
only reason i considered it was because my setup makes an alternator whine and a looping tick sound when no audio source is connected or powered, but thats never for more than a few seconds.