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Thread: Hardware Review: 41hz.com Amplifier Kit

  1. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by swift_gti View Post
    Sure, I meant to put it into the review but forgot..

    It cost me 65 Euro / 44 Sterling, that converts to around $88 USD Delivered.

    Definatley worth the money in my opinion
    I suppose, but I can pick up a preassembled 4ch amp for around $100-120 up here, though it won't be able to fit under the deck, it might just be easier for me to do.

  2. #12
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    I just wanted to add to Swift_GTI's review of the 41Hz kit/support.

    I have built 2 of the amp9's from 41Hz. I ran into some issues both times; none of which were the fault of 41Hz. A couple were my own stupid boneheaded mistakes. I also had some deep technical support questions as well when constructing the first amp as it pertains to AM radio and automobile use.

    Anyway, both times, Jan at 41Hz went above and beyond the call of duty! All my technical questions were answered fully and timely.

    As far as kit quality, both amps worked on the first try. They are very easy to build, and the instructions are quite good. The amp9 assembly instructions do need a revision though as there are 2 parts I believe that aren't labeled as to where they go, but with the datasheet from Tripath and process of elimination its very obvious where they go, but really should be documented in the assembly instructions.

    Overall, If your looking for a 4 channel amp that is small and powerful enough to replace a headunit or for integration into a carPC, I don't think you will be dissapointed with the kits from 41Hz.

    -Alan

  3. #13
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    Can you get these from anywhere, pre assembled?

  4. #14
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    Sometimes members will offer them for sale in the classified section over at the 41hz forums. Or a member might build on for you, but otherwise not that I know of.

    -Alan

  5. #15
    Low Bitrate scottgs's Avatar
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    The onboard bridge rectifier isn't really needed if your going to power it from a DC source.


    You will lose reverse-polarity protection by doing this. Could be valuable if someone ever hooks up the battery backwards. I've had this happen and it blew my amps...


    If you power it from a regulated DC source, you can do away with all three of the large bulk caps as well. I only mention this because if at some point space gets to a premium, you have some options of shortening the board.


    You might want to be cautious removing the caps completely. Removing the caps will likely result in a reduction in low-frequency response and overall dynamic range. The caps are there for two reasons, one is to help filter noise and ripple, but the other is to provide a low-impedance high-current power source for the moments when a lot of power is necessary such as during heavy bass notes or drum beats. If you take out the caps, you will have to ensure you have heavy guage wiring all the way to the battery, and even then, the amp will probably still suffer.

  6. #16
    Newbie RSXelrate's Avatar
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    Out of curiosity, why wouldn't they make these preassembled? And if a 4x60w amp is able to be built so small, why are normal automotive amps so big?

  7. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by scottgs View Post
    [/I]

    You will lose reverse-polarity protection by doing this. Could be valuable if someone ever hooks up the battery backwards. I've had this happen and it blew my amps...

    [/I]

    You might want to be cautious removing the caps completely. Removing the caps will likely result in a reduction in low-frequency response and overall dynamic range. The caps are there for two reasons, one is to help filter noise and ripple, but the other is to provide a low-impedance high-current power source for the moments when a lot of power is necessary such as during heavy bass notes or drum beats. If you take out the caps, you will have to ensure you have heavy guage wiring all the way to the battery, and even then, the amp will probably still suffer.

    If you look at the design of this amp kit, it is actually designed to be powered from an AC source, and has on-board rectification and filtration, but NO on board regulation. As I said above if your powering from a DC source, you can eliminate the large bulk caps as the bulk caps are meant to smooth the rectified AC; which is a non-issue in DC applications. Granted, automotive DC isn't "pure clean DC", but there is actually a total of 6 total capacitors on the supply rail-in the auto environment, the 3 bulk caps can be removed without a problem. Also, this is a 4 channel full range PDM amp, not a linear or sub amp, and at the power levels present, large bulk caps for bass response just isn't necessary. Absolute max current draw on this amp at 13.8volts with all channels driven with 4 ohm loads is only 13.8 amps.

    It is true by removing the bridge you loose reverse polarity protection, but just pay attention to what your doing and don't reverse the leads. I personally want every bit of power I can get and do not want the voltage drop and its associated loss of power accross the bridge.

    -Alan

  8. #18
    Maximum Bitrate stonestatue's Avatar
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    I am glad to see someone write a review of this product and act as a guinea pig. I am also planning on getting one of these to put into my integrated carputer as a complete replacement for a head unit.

    I want to make the carputer as integrated as possible, meaning I want as many accessories/devices inside the unit as possible. This would include: motherboard, PSU, WiFi card, and of course, the AMP 9 kit. Something like this:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabr...ps-indash.html

    I might even completely gut my existing factory stereo and put everything inside there to allow for an OEM fit.

    Would there be a risk of components blowing if the chassis comes in contact with ground (via mounting bolts, etc)?
    Check out my GMC Savana worklog.

    Remaining tasks to facilitate vanputer installation codename "Enterprise":
    - Edit skin to liking.
    - Get compatible phone for mobilephone.net.
    - Facilitate HVAC control.

  9. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by stonestatue View Post
    I am glad to see someone write a review of this product and act as a guinea pig. I am also planning on getting one of these to put into my integrated carputer as a complete replacement for a head unit.

    I want to make the carputer as integrated as possible, meaning I want as many accessories/devices inside the unit as possible. This would include: motherboard, PSU, WiFi card, and of course, the AMP 9 kit. Something like this:
    http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/fabr...ps-indash.html

    I might even completely gut my existing factory stereo and put everything inside there to allow for an OEM fit.

    Would there be a risk of components blowing if the chassis comes in contact with ground (via mounting bolts, etc)?
    I'm still slowly working on mine, but my goal is the same as yours. Just wanted to point out, rather than gutting your factory radio, would a the kit available on this site work for you? I know they were designed from Subaru's, but might fit other applications as well. I know it works in my application.

    http://store.mp3car.com/category_s/89.htm

    -Alan

  10. #20
    Maximum Bitrate stonestatue's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FirebirdTN View Post
    I'm still slowly working on mine, but my goal is the same as yours. Just wanted to point out, rather than gutting your factory radio, would a the kit available on this site work for you? I know they were designed from Subaru's, but might fit other applications as well. I know it works in my application.

    http://store.mp3car.com/category_s/89.htm

    -Alan
    What advantage would I have of buying this kit over using my factory chassis? I'm not shutting it out, just wondering.
    Check out my GMC Savana worklog.

    Remaining tasks to facilitate vanputer installation codename "Enterprise":
    - Edit skin to liking.
    - Get compatible phone for mobilephone.net.
    - Facilitate HVAC control.

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