This is a preamp not a line output converter AT ALL. AFAIK you cannot feed speaker level output into it.
Besides the physical volume control knob does this differ from a regular 20$ line out converter in regards to sound quality?
I don't need a volume control knob, and don't feel like spending 55$ for a line out converter if this is all it is.
You sure, because I see line inputs....
I just checked the specs, and it accepts at most 4VRMS.
NOT a speaker level input, which should be capable of accepting 7VRMS or more, unless you have some very weak amp (like headphone amp) perhaps? I use it with my line outs from my soundcard.
Ah, ok. Yes, sorry.. I wasn't using the right terms.
So lets start over.. A pre-amp would take a *low* input source (such as a sound card) and boost it to a line level output. This would, i assume improve the sound quality.
And a line out converter would take a high input source (speaker wire) and convert that to a RCA wire? correct?
If what I said makes sense, then a line out converter would pretty much be useless in the situation where you are going from your sound card to an amplifier, correct?
So a preamp is what we need in the carputer world?
sorry, i'm learning...
lots of terms to learn buy your on the right track now!
like i said in the other thread, if you do not need the volume control, any preamp will work.
@soundman98, or any one who would know:
1) Is the volume control knob a potentiometer? That would mean the volume control signal is analog which begs the question: How accurate is the gain between multiple units controlled with the same volume knob?. I would hate if the balance between tweeter, midwoofer and subwoofer would shift. Was the CL-RLC designed to be ganged?
2) I like my car audio to be girlfriend-proof. That is, she can crank the volume all the way up without doing any harm. Can the maximum gain be limited? I guess if the volume knob is a pot then a resistor in the right place would limit the maximum gain to what I want it to be.
yes, the volume control is a potentiometer. it is a dual output version. there is more then just the potentiometer inside the controller though-- there are also some very small smd components as well.. it uses 4 pins in the rj-11 jack to 'talk' to the main unit.(my clarion crossover has a bass knob that uses a 6-pin r-11)
i have not noticed any drift in my setup..(since doing the review, i have upgraded my speakers-- peerless hds 6" mids, and some dayton 1-1/8" tweeters actively crossed-over)
it has been a while since i pulled it apart, but i want to say that all 6 pins of the potentiometer leads go somewhere, so it is not as easy as limiting the max resistance..
i thought jl's site used to list using multiple units as feature, though i can't seem to find that anymore...
something that could be done to prevent damage would be over-careful crossover setups..
if you are really interested in the way these things are put together, let me know-- i got a extra onei would need to dig out of the garage and taking some inside pics..
The pot in the control module does not itself attenuate or even carry the audio signal. It sends a control signal through the variable resistance of the pot to a programmable gain amplifier. That is how the RLC's can be linked and only one pot be needed to attenuate many different audio signals without mixing them all together. The resistance reference from the pot is sent to all the individual gain blocks.
Mounting them next the source would be best since it elevates the signal level before any potential noise picked up along the RCA run. If you mount them near the amps, the picked up noise will then be amplified along with the signal.
These device also work great as signal buffers due to their diff balanced input stage. They can take a preamp signal from an iPod, head unit, or whatever and make it more robust, even if no addition gain is added.