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Thread: GA-H55N-USB3 MB from GIGABYTE

  1. #21
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    VegasGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kyllarts View Post
    Hi,
    do you powering your monitor with the same m2-atx?
    my setup quite same as your;
    m2atx
    Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3 motherboard, i3 540 processor, 4gb RAM
    lilliput 669gl-70np/c/t
    usb hub
    the pc can't start unless i unplug power cable to monitor & usb hub first.
    or could be m2atx not enough for my setup. i hv using another dc-dc (65w) to powering the monitor.
    but the power for the second psu still came from m2atx.
    any suggestion?
    I don't use this motherboard anymore, but your problem is not specific to this setup. The M2 has specific load limits on the 12v and 5v buses. I use a Mini-box DC-DC to supply my monitor and other peripherals, just to reduce the load a bit. In particular, if you have a lot of USB devices attached, you'll want to look at the aggregate load on the 5V bus. That can drop your M2 just as fast as overloading the 12v circuit. Don't power the second PSU from the M2. Use a separate 12v line.


    Vegasguy

  2. #22
    Jesus Freak antimatter's Avatar
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    I have similar issues... I have an Opus 150 though.

    I have boot issues when i have the rear USB camera plugged in. It's as if it is drawing to much power over the 5v.

    Hoping to someday resolve this

    Quote Originally Posted by kyllarts View Post
    Hi,
    do you powering your monitor with the same m2-atx?
    my setup quite same as your;
    m2atx
    Gigabyte GA-H55M-USB3 motherboard, i3 540 processor, 4gb RAM
    lilliput 669gl-70np/c/t
    usb hub
    the pc can't start unless i unplug power cable to monitor & usb hub first.
    or could be m2atx not enough for my setup. i hv using another dc-dc (65w) to powering the monitor.
    but the power for the second psu still came from m2atx.
    any suggestion?
    -Jesus- King of Kings Lord of Lords

  3. #23
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    VegasGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by antimatter View Post
    I have similar issues... I have an Opus 150 though.

    I have boot issues when i have the rear USB camera plugged in. It's as if it is drawing to much power over the 5v.

    Hoping to someday resolve this
    Generally speaking, any USB device that requires more than 500ma will have an external power plug. In some cases (external HD enclosure), you'll see a "Y" cable that pulls from two USB plugs. These type of devices are again typically limited to about 750ma. Some 4G wireless adapters work like that too. The culprit is likely to be the total system draw...including both internal 5v devices (those things directly attached to the MB), and external USB devices. Also, no overclocking! I say this with a guilty look on my face since I think I posted at one time that I was overclocking my i3 with no ill effects. Not entirely true. While I didn't detect any problems related to heat (which is what I was looking for), The higher power requirements did create situations where I got unexpected reboots and some system instability. The likely problem was that I exceeded the maximum power available from the M2.

    I should point out that I am currently running an i5 2500K, 4gb DDR3 RAM, an SSD and a 2.5 HD and a variety of USB 3.0 and 2.0 devices all on that same M2 and it's working just fine. Logitech webcam included. so you maybe right in thinking that something on your system is drawing more power than it should, but I'd be surprised if it was the webcam.

    VegasGuy

  4. #24
    Jesus Freak antimatter's Avatar
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    Well i am sure it is the webcam (actually it is not a webcam, it is a cheapo USB Audio/video grabber)

    I use it in conjunction with the Joycon for a reverse camera.

    Anyhow the only way i can get it to work is to wait until windows is loaded and then plug it into a USB 3 slot. It wont work in any USB 2.0 (Note i have tried this and it works flawlessly on other computers)

    In this configuration when i resume from standby it works flawlessly. Hibernate or cold boot it is a crap shoot. Sometimes it will load the OS, Other times it hangs on POST. Either way once i get into the OS i still have to manually unplug and replug to get it to work.

    Really annoying.

    Quote Originally Posted by VegasGuy View Post
    Generally speaking, any USB device that requires more than 500ma will have an external power plug. In some cases (external HD enclosure), you'll see a "Y" cable that pulls from two USB plugs. These type of devices are again typically limited to about 750ma. Some 4G wireless adapters work like that too. The culprit is likely to be the total system draw...including both internal 5v devices (those things directly attached to the MB), and external USB devices. Also, no overclocking! I say this with a guilty look on my face since I think I posted at one time that I was overclocking my i3 with no ill effects. Not entirely true. While I didn't detect any problems related to heat (which is what I was looking for), The higher power requirements did create situations where I got unexpected reboots and some system instability. The likely problem was that I exceeded the maximum power available from the M2.

    I should point out that I am currently running an i5 2500K, 4gb DDR3 RAM, an SSD and a 2.5 HD and a variety of USB 3.0 and 2.0 devices all on that same M2 and it's working just fine. Logitech webcam included. so you maybe right in thinking that something on your system is drawing more power than it should, but I'd be surprised if it was the webcam.

    VegasGuy
    -Jesus- King of Kings Lord of Lords

  5. #25
    Maximum Bitrate Mickz's Avatar
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    FIY, I found that one of the GigaByte MB optional install applications, forgot which one, will cause the MB to be VERY slow to load windows. This happens with both versions of the MB that I used. Uninstall it and everything goes back to normal. It can take it out to 1 Minute load time?

    Along with all 10 MB USB2- 3 Ports in use I have a 4 Port HUB (inbuilt repeater) at the Front with a 10 Port Hub running off that and a 4 Port Hub off that again. I’m running two HI-DEF webcams one Front and one Rear, two GPS receivers, a high power Wi-Fi device, DAB-FM, Optical DSP device and a number of Micro interfaces and vehicle diagnostic interfaces. These can all run without any external power to the Hubs however I now have the Hubs powered.

    One exception with the HUB’s – The USB HVAC Microprocessor interface will hang in windows if it’s not plugged directly into the repeater HUB – It can cause my FE to be VERY slow to open. Only found that problem on the test bench the other day as in the Vehicle, the HVAC has always been run from a repeater HUB port.

    The 4 port repeater Hub is from Jaycar and is really high quality with a thick high quality cable. I installed a USB-3, 5 meter single repeater extension cable the other day and my USB-3 HDD powers up and runs perfectly at the end of that 5M cable – no ext power, whereas a cheap 2 foot cable won’t run it. Hub quality is everything.

    FIY: I just timed the Boot:

    Cold Boot to FE fully running = 27 seconds.

    Resume from Hibernate = 23 seconds. (4GB ram)

    In both cases the time to the Resume or Load Windows message is 18 seconds, Post sucks.

    Resume from sleep is around 3.5 seconds with 2 seconds of that waiting for the PSU to start. Once the PSU fires, the FE is running in about 1.5 seconds.

    I’m now running a GA-H67N-USB3-B3 with an Intel Core i5 2400S Low Power CPU for extra headroom when recording two HI-DEF webcam streams for hours on end. The i3 had no problems but as the power usage for both processors is roughly the same at that load level I decided to use the i3 in another desktop PC and plug the i5 into the Car-PC.
    GA-Z77N-WIFI, i5-2400S, 8GB, Intel 520 128GB SSD, M4-ATX Modified, 2 Rev Cams, 2 Web Cams
    8" 16:9 TRANSFLECTIVE, Win8-64, Dual GPS RX and Garmin PC + Odyssey Nav, FM-DAB+, BB-Rec
    T-Screen HVAC control, custom microcontrollers, code and FE. CarPC Project

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