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Thread: USB Syncroized 5V@8A power supply POL. Now Taking Orders!!!

  1. #101
    Low Bitrate Beehphy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by swordfishunter View Post
    When "exactly" does this POL supply enable, during the bios, or when windows is loading enabling the USB- if i disable usb in the bios will It load during windows?
    The ACPPS turns on when the computer powers the 5V for the USB ports, so most likely as soon as the computer powers on.

    If you disable the USB ports they will not be available to windows to use.

    Quote Originally Posted by swordfishunter View Post
    By using 12v accessory out I guess i can use this to trigger the amps with a delay accounting for startup time.
    Does the amp pop when the computer powers on or when the sound card is activated by the computer (drivers load)? Most likely its when the sound card first recieves power.

    Making a guess, your amp should have a delay built into it, right? If the sound card causes the pop when it powers on, the amp startup delay might be enough.

    In your current configuration the amps are enabled by the ignition, right? In that configuration the amps power on and are past thier delay when the computer powers on, after its start up delay. In that case the amp is outputting sound when the computer power turns on and the pop can make it through to the speakers.

    If the amp is triggered by the 12 output of the ACPPS both will star at the same time. The sound card should make its pop, and the amp delay should cover that up. Since they both will recieve power at the same time the pop should happen before the amp is outputting any sound.

    Quote Originally Posted by swordfishunter View Post
    However when I kill my igition, the DSATX goes to countdown mode, and then to hibernate. In countdown mode everything is still on, including this POL.

    At this point i don't think my amps are going to go off, and when i leave the car, music will still be blasting.... correct?
    From what I understand about your system, yes.

    Quote Originally Posted by swordfishunter View Post
    What i want to know is, are my assumptions correct? and what is the workaround towards this... if any
    A work around for that would be adding a Relay between the ACPPS and amp. Use the ignition accessory power to flip the relay, allowing the 12v ouput to be connected to the amp enable only when the ignition is on. In this way both computer power and ignition state have to be present for the amp to be on.

    Here are the three states:
    1. When the computer is off the amp enable signal would be missing and the amp turned off, reguardless of the ignition.
    2. When the computer is on but the ignition is off the enable signal couldn't make it from the ACPPS to the amp because of the open relay.
    3. When both are on the amp should be powered for normal opperation.

    Hope this helps, please post again if you have any further questions. this is great stuff to have in the thread.
    Jesse
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  2. #102
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    that sounded so doable i did mine today

    it works,
    kinda....

    Actually im just being a little anal, but i'd be interested to see if anyone has a solution.

    So now the amps come on after a 9 sec delay from the relay, when PC boots all is fine...no pop.

    However when I turn off the car, and then start it again.. (acc off / then on) the DSATX is still in coundown mode and therefore hasn't powered off / hibernated yet, but i still have to wait 9 seconds for the amps to come on.

    Anyone have any thoughts?

  3. #103
    Low Bitrate Beehphy's Avatar
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    Sounds like you got what you were looking for in your pervioius post. No amp pop. No stereo while the key is out.

    The delay your experiencing is the amp's delay. The relay clicks on from the key and sends the enabls signal to the amp, then the amp waits 9 seconds before allowing sound.

    Unless you can find a way to anticipate when your going to turn your key on, by 9 seconds, you kind of stuck... or find a way to shorten the delay in the amp...

  4. #104
    Constant Bitrate reggiek945's Avatar
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    Ok I'm sold. Could you tell me what unit I should purchase? I am currently running just one USB 4 port hub maybe going to another in the future. I wouldn't be using it for my monitor because I am using my OPUS 320W for that. Which model and how much? Thanks,

    Reggie

  5. #105
    Low Bitrate Beehphy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by reggiek945 View Post
    Which model and how much? Thanks,

    Reggie
    Currently only the ACPPSv1 is available for purchace, but it sounds like the unit you would need. It has a 5V, 8A output cabable of powering more than 15 USB devices and all the hubs to wire that up.

    The first post in this thread has the most up to date information about specs, pricing, availability. Currently the ACPPSv1 sells for $80, with $10 for S/H (domestic), and an optional $10 for a USBi(solator).

    You can order directly through my website (http://jopeldesigns.com or send an email to ACPPS at jopeldesigns.com with your order and Paypal E-mail addy so I can send a bill.

    Thank you for your interest, hope to see your order soon.
    -Jesse

    P.S. I do offer free tech support to help my customers get the most out of my product.

  6. #106
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    Hey Beehphy, finally got around to installing the ACCPS today ( i think i ordered it from you about August last year). And what can i say WOW it works like a dream. Great product.

    Tip for newbies ( like me) don't run your 12 volt input wire from the same wire your amp runs on. Because after the amp delay and the amp powers on there is a slight momentary voltage drop which is enough to turn the USB hub on and off. This was playing havic with my sound card drivers etc. But the problem was easy fixed, just ran another 12 volt input wire from a different souce and all is better.

    Thanks Beehphy for an awesome product, the perfect solution for powered USB hubs.

    Cheers

    James

    P.S Bloody hot down under at the moment!!!!

  7. #107
    FLAC Sal R.'s Avatar
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    So after testing the ACCPS for a few weeks, it is working flawlessly, despite being manhandled by UPS.

    This unit has really simplified my wiring and it's nice to have an auxilary output without having to tie into the main power line.

    I have it placed under my rear passenger seat, but have yet to get any complaints about heat. However, I don't carry many passengers either (dead weight).

    Support has been addressed in a timely manner.

    Overall, a great product and am very pleased with it.
    Pico-ITX / XP Home with EWF-HORM / RR v12/02/2009 / Winamp v5.13 / RRMedia v1.2.2

  8. #108
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    Is this still available for sale or are there other alternatives for use with Infill G4? I'm looking to power 1 if not 2 x 4-port usb hubs (read it's better if usb syncronised) and wireless 3g router (12v?).

    Since Infill G4 already has it's own psu, would CNX-P2140 still works for my needs? If it does but is overkill, I would not mind since I could reuse it if I ever switch to standalone car pc.

    Sorry, I've no background in electrical engineering and so would like minimum wiring solution though I've access to someone who can help me with the wiring if needed.

  9. #109
    Low Bitrate Beehphy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Carz View Post
    Is this still available for sale or are there other alternatives for use with Infill G4? I'm looking to power 1 if not 2 x 4-port usb hubs (read it's better if usb syncronised) and wireless 3g router (12v?).
    Yes, the ACPPS and USBi are still available. I actually just began another production run of each product.

    The ACPPS has more than enough power for your USB system, but I'm not sure I understand what a wireless 3g router is. I know of Wifi A/B/G/N and 3g Cellular Wireless networks... It would also be good to understand its power requirements before designing your system as ACPPSv1 does not include a regulated 12V output.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carz View Post
    Since Infill G4 already has it's own psu, would CNX-P2140 still works for my needs? If it does but is overkill, I would not mind since I could reuse it if I ever switch to standalone car pc.
    I'm sure you could get it to work. If your Wireless thing needs 12V this might be a better option.

    Quote Originally Posted by Carz View Post
    Sorry, I've no background in electrical engineering and so would like minimum wiring solution though I've access to someone who can help me with the wiring if needed.
    You might need some help. My minimum wiring solution is in the ACPPS manual. Available for download from the first post in this thread.

  10. #110
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    This is the router I'm referring. It says 12V @ 1A DC. Not sure the difference between regulated and unregulated. What would you advise?

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