Thread: USB Syncroized 5V@8A power supply POL. Now Taking Orders!!!

Originally Posted by inh

$80 for a kit.. This is using SMD components, right? Soldering those has got to be a *****..

My productis not a kit. It is a complete and funtional product. plug and play.

And yes, soldering SMD components is a bi@tch! thats why it takes me 4-5 hours to build each one. soldering, machining the chassis and assembling.

Originally Posted by ReefDonkey

VGA monitor with touchscreen
Sirius USB connector to tuner
GPS (probably will not work thru a hub)
TV Tuner
cell phone as modem/charger (probably needs to be powered)
Space Explorer 3D mouse
DVD player
mini Keyboard
HD radio tuner

Before the development of this product, how was lack of usb ports addressed? Thanks for the input!

The lack of USB ports was the reason for the design of this product. I too had way to many USB devices to run off the 4 standard ports.

For your install I have caatogoraized each piece

Lower power (minimal current draw, could be together on 1 unpowered hub)
VGA monitor with touchscreen (should only be powering the touch logic not the screen)
Sirius USB connector to tuner (just communications, the tuner has own power feed)
Space Explorer 3D mouse
mini Keyboard

High power: (close to 0.5A draw)
DVD player (motor draws a lot on startup)
GPS
TV Tuner
cell phone as modem/charger (cell phones pull all they can to charge)
HD radio tuner

BTW, my psu (either version) draws almost no current from the usb port to turn on, so it could be plugged into a port on the nonpowered hub

So, that means you need 6 ports, or add 1 powered 5Pt and 1 unpowered hub 5pt.

My mistake, I read that $80 gets an unassembled supply, with manual. Whoops!

I'm in =]

11/16 UPDATE

The redesign of the 10A version with switched unregulated 12V output is complete. I should still be able to sell finished products for $80. And I may make kits available for $50.

The redesign changed the location of some of the connections. But all serve the orrigional purposes. the "12V" connections are the power input, remote is a 5-50V enable signal input, switched 12V, GND, and 5V are self explanatory. The USB-B plug is also a 5-50V enable signal input. It still has power good, and fail LED's between the USB and screw terminals.

Now i have to round up $100 to build the prototype, 5hrs to build and spend 20hrs testing. I'll keep everyone updated on the progress.

Would anyone like to see a model with a regulated 12V output? A 2-5A 12V output would probably add $20 to the price.

I would LOVE regulated 12v.. Perfect for powering the LCD

Originally Posted by jakegem

So a unit with regulated +12V and regulated +5V would cost $100? How is that different from this
http://store.mp3car.com/CarNetix_CNX..._p/pwr-012.htm that also includes a fan & shutdown controller for $95?

Mine wouldn't have a fan..? Thanks for pointing that out. I would have been angry if I had developed it for no reason.

Actually My design would have provided more current on the 5V rail and less on the 12V. Probably 5 and 5. I wouldn't have a startup/shutdown controller because it simply follows the computer. My design assumes you have a computer that has that controller built in.

Originally Posted by thatslife

I would agree regulated 12v seems like your going to have many models of this..

Thats 3 models I proposed
5V, 10A with switched 12V unreg output. 80$ for sure.
5V, 5A bare bones ~$55-70 (design not finished yet)
5V, 5A + 12V, 5A ~$95-105 (design not finished yet)

I could cheaply add a LDO regulator for the 12V regulated ouput, but the problem is, I couldn't guarantee the output would function when the engine is off. The alternator in your car holds the 12V system at ~13.5-14.5V, enough to regulate 12V using a LDO regulator. but on battery alone the cars 12V falls to 12.5V and below, not enough for the LDO to reliably work properly. I could try to simply turn the 12V off if there's not enough to maintain it properly, but that would be a hack solution. also large hits from your subwoofer amplifier would probably cause that output to cut out even under engine power.

Originally Posted by thatslife

Dont understand where the remote goes to

The remote is an input. you can use the USB plug or the remote input to turn this power supply on. either input can handle a 5-50V input signal to turn on.

Say your setup uses all your avalable USB ports, with none to signal the power supply to turn on. You could splice into the computers 12V rail or the keyboard port (5V) to trigger the power supply to turn on.

Basically what I'm saying, Any time the 5V pin in the USB port or the remote signal raise to 5V, the power supply outputs 5V and the 12V unregulated output turns on.

Application note: You could use the switched 12V pin to turn on your amps with the computer.

Sounds like it's time to build one PCB, with modularized sections for 12v unregulated and 12v regulated output areas