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Thread: HD Radio Cables READY!

  1. #361
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    moahdib's Avatar
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    Is there a USB HD Radio stick available yet??
    04 Acura TL w/ core2duo 2ghz laptop w/ 1gb RAM on a docking station.

    Fast car, fast PC. ;)

    http://www.arcdesigns.net/carpc/

    My TL CarPC ver2

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  2. #362
    FLAC greatwhite's Avatar
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    Well, removed teh rca ground jumper and all my "ground loop" noise is gone. The beeping/buzing/alternator whine is completely gone.
    Now there's a base sizzle noise in the system. It's definately induced by the radio as unplugging or muting the line in for the sound card makes it completely dissapear.

    I did not that it could be made louder or quiter by handling the black box on th constant 12v in. I had to resoldier the connections in the box when I got it as the wires came completely out (fell out when I turned it over in my hands). I'm going to investigate that next.

    I'm beginning to think the build quality on these units isn't so high.........
    For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
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  3. #363
    One Sharp Cheddar ThunderStick's Avatar
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    There is no need for the ground jumper wire at least I haven't needed it.
    (1) When installing these units, connect everything to a common ground cable. Use the same constant 12v cable for your computer and HD tuner and Same Accessory Wire for both as well. using all the same power connections should improve your sound quality. Using different wires from different points in the car can creat a lot of line noise. For example if you get your accessory 12v signal from you radio to your computer and then get the accessory 12v for your tuner from you electric window switch this may cause problems when you roll your windows up since there is a much higher voltage draw then when not using your windows. It is allways a good idea just to draw the accessory voltage directly from the same wire you radio uses. Connecting everything to the same wires ensures the same voltage draws will affect everything in the same way.
    (2) Of course a good thick ground cable is allways a good idea too. A good rule of thumb is to use a ground cable that is thicker or at least equal to your power cable.
    (3) Keep your data cable runs away from vents and power cables, especially audio and video cables. Vents and power cables can create a lot of static and will definitely affect audio and video performance.
    (4) Use shielded data, video and audio cables if you can. Very important in car installs since most installs require that cables are run in tight areas. Shielded cables should keep line noise to a minimum. They are usually more expensive but worth the cost.
    (5) Use quality cables. Gold tip cabling is usually not so necessary but quality cabling will definitely help a little as well.

    I have been doing carpc installs for over 5 years now, I have installed well over 100 carputers for freinds, customers and myself. I have learned a lot over the past few years and have trial and errored many things. What I have learned is that going the cheap route is usually more expensive and harder than dishing out the extra money initially. Cause in the end you end up getting the more expensive component anyway when the cheaper unit fails or doesnt work to your expectations.
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  4. #364
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    I don't have the sizzle noise since cutting the internal ground.

    That's probably because I have the visteon running off the same ground, same 12V constant and same 12V accessory line as the CarPC.

    One thing I've noticed is with my CarPC, using the Car2PC adapter, I have to keep the line in on the sound card turned down to about 5% and the car radio pretty low as well. I then control the volume with master volume. Anything higher than 5% causes distortion and unwanted noise.

    I figured the visteon was not amplifying the sound but it sure seems that it is because of what I stated above.

  5. #365
    FLAC greatwhite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    There is no need for the ground jumper wire at least I haven't needed it.
    It would appear so as my ground loop dissapeared after removal of the "jumper".


    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    (1) When installing these units, connect everything to a common ground cable. Use the same constant 12v cable for your computer and HD tuner and Same Accessory Wire for both as well. using all the same power connections should improve your sound quality. Using different wires from different points in the car can creat a lot of line noise. For example if you get your accessory 12v signal from you radio to your computer and then get the accessory 12v for your tuner from you electric window switch this may cause problems when you roll your windows up since there is a much higher voltage draw then when not using your windows. It is allways a good idea just to draw the accessory voltage directly from the same wire you radio uses. Connecting everything to the same wires ensures the same voltage draws will affect everything in the same way.
    That's the way it's installed right now. Everything feeds of a distribution block fed by 4 guage cable directly from the vehicle battery. All routed carefully to avoid interfering with, and interference from, the cars electrical components (ECM, fuel pump, etc). The Acc wire comes from the original acc feed where the factory radio was.

    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    (2) Of course a good thick ground cable is allways a good idea too. A good rule of thumb is to use a ground cable that is thicker or at least equal to your power cable.
    Every ground feeds into a distro block and then out through a 4 guage cable to a dedicated ground post location selected for it's eletrical isolation from noise sources and paths (solid chassis ground). All connections are either the audio "clamp" style (gold plate) or soldiered 4 gage lugs. I'm a "stickler" on having a good ground. Most electrical problems (outside of component failure) I've seen are usually traced back to a poor/bad ground somewhere.....

    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    (3) Keep your data cable runs away from vents and power cables, especially audio and video cables. Vents and power cables can create a lot of static and will definitely affect audio and video performance.
    I've taken great pains to avoid routing near any electric motors (ie fuel pump etc) and noise sources. Power runs down the rh sill of the car, signal wires on the LH and the monitor/control wires run down the center. Where they do have to cross, its at near 90 degree angles to mitigate induced current.

    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    (4) Use shielded data, video and audio cables if you can. Very important in car installs since most installs require that cables are run in tight areas. Shielded cables should keep line noise to a minimum. They are usually more expensive but worth the cost.
    Agreed. But this has to be an incremental inprovement for me due to current......ahem....... "budgetary constraints" . See routing comments for how I've compensated until some cash comes my way.

    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    (5) Use quality cables. Gold tip cabling is usually not so necessary but quality cabling will definitely help a little as well.
    See #4 comments. I've used 10 and 12 gage for the speaker runs. 10 is just too big to physically fit in some spots and 12 is more than adaquate for my current power level (but who knows about the future?). I've used the best rca's I can currently purchase (need to buy better ones), but those stupid rca to 3.5 mm cables are soooo hard to find in "high end" form. I'm considering building my own cable (nothing I haven't done before) for the 3.5 adapters to get the "quality" I'll eventually want.


    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    I have been doing carpc installs for over 5 years now, I have installed well over 100 carputers for freinds, customers and myself. I have learned a lot over the past few years and have trial and errored many things. What I have learned is that going the cheap route is usually more expensive and harder than dishing out the extra money initially. Cause in the end you end up getting the more expensive component anyway when the cheaper unit fails or doesnt work to your expectations.
    Agreed on the "cheap" comments. I've only installed 3 carputers (my own cars) but in 24 years as an automotive/aviation technician I've installed quite a few car stereo's (work, mine and friends over the years) and the principles of electrical isolation are still the same. I understand the principles of sheilding and noise isolation, try dealing with aviation radios and navigational equipment and you'll get the idea!I might not be current on the best automotive component selection, but I have a bit of an idea of how to do an decent install. It's just tracking down the noise that's a PITA when it looks as if you've done the install correctly.


    Thanks for the tips, but:

    The chase continues................
    For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
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  6. #366
    One Sharp Cheddar ThunderStick's Avatar
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    Greatwhite,
    Nothing was directed at you only a general FYI for anyone viewing this thread. A lot of people have problems with ground loop and line noise when they first start.
    And yes, with your aviation background It is fair to assume you now something about eletronics. I am a machine technician, and I work with fully automated and robotic machinery every day. Much like aviation equipment, the electronics are very touchy as well.
    But not every body on the forums has backgrounds like ours, probably less than 50% do. And they need and appreciate all the help they can get.
    Your welcome....
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  7. #367
    FLAC greatwhite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    Greatwhite,
    Nothing was directed at you only a general FYI for anyone viewing this thread. A lot of people have problems with ground loop and line noise when they first start.
    And yes, with your aviation background It is fair to assume you now something about eletronics. I am a machine technician, and I work with fully automated and robotic machinery every day. Much like aviation equipment, the electronics are very touchy as well.
    But not every body on the forums has backgrounds like ours, probably less than 50% do. And they need and appreciate all the help they can get.
    Your welcome....
    No offence taken.....

    For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
    Leonardo Da Vinci

  8. #368
    One Sharp Cheddar ThunderStick's Avatar
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    Greatwhit,
    had one more thought, do you only get the noise while the car is running.
    If so check your wiring on your alternator. Ensure that it is still in pretty good shape. Engine heat mixed with the weather elements tend to corrode the insulation on your under the hood wiring pretty easily.
    Other than that, good luck. A good solution may be to just install a ground loop isolator or noise filter from ratshack.
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  9. #369
    FLAC greatwhite's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ThunderStick View Post
    Greatwhit,
    had one more thought, do you only get the noise while the car is running.
    If so check your wiring on your alternator. Ensure that it is still in pretty good shape. Engine heat mixed with the weather elements tend to corrode the insulation on your under the hood wiring pretty easily.
    Other than that, good luck. A good solution may be to just install a ground loop isolator or noise filter from ratshack.
    Yep, thought of that.

    No difference.

    I've got a few ideas to try out before applying (what is essentially) a "band-aid" like a GLI.

    Hmm, I've got a PAC GLI lying around here somewhere, maybe I'll throw it on to see if it makes a difference. Might give me some more info to troubleshoot the problem.

    I'll find out what the issue is eventually, it'll just take time.

    If only you could make more time.................

    For once you have tasted flight you will walk the earth with your eyes turned skywards, for there you have been and there you will long to return.
    Leonardo Da Vinci

  10. #370
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    Mitch, Just got your cable. HD)Radio works with 12v power supply and faceplate. When connected to notebook via USB to RS232 converter (using Huge Pine driver) the relay does not trip when using your software. I put on a serial port monitor and here is the output:

    Port opened by process "HDRadioPCR.exe" (PID: 2368)
    Port Closed

    your program then says that it could not locate a radio on a Com port.

    Do you (or anyone else) think that I need to set the com port for a specific speed or other setting? As an alternative, does anyone have a specific converter and driver combination that has proven to work?

    Possibly a defective cable (transistor)?

    Thanks in advance.

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