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Thread: Laptop Auto Power-On / Turn-On Module

  1. #151
    Maximum Bitrate Ruffy's Avatar
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    button is alot easier on many laptops (trust me ive repaired laptops for 2 years on job)

    On mine there is no ribbon cable or similar. the button board presses onto a small connector on the mainboard then its screwed down. so no cables to play with. And you're not going to be able to solder onto the small connector on the mainboard. It's a press fit and very small, plus the button board sits on top of it blocking all access.
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  2. #152
    Constant Bitrate RyanB95's Avatar
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    So what am I supposed to do?
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  3. #153
    Constant Bitrate rsxtypes's Avatar
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    Are you saying it would be easier to try to get at the wires behind this membrane (that is probably adhered to that plate) ...


    than to solder on these clearly visible posts?
    [/

  4. #154
    FLAC W3bMa5t3r's Avatar
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    I think RSX is right here, it'd probably be easier to solder to the leads from the socket for your ribbon cable. You'd just need to be very careful and very precise. Before you start, do like you did for the membrane switch/lid switch check the leads with a multimeter on the continuity setting. Have your ribbon cable in the socket, press your button and test the leads till you get the desired BEEP (make sure your laptop is unplugged and the battery is out)

  5. #155
    Constant Bitrate rsxtypes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by W3bMa5t3r View Post
    Thanks for cutting that picture down for me. I just wanted to add you are not looking at the pins inside the connector. You want to look at the soldering pads at the base of the connector. There are 5 of them clearly visible on this side of the connector. I am not sure what is on the other side of that connector there may be more.

  6. #156
    Constant Bitrate RyanB95's Avatar
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    Just in case it helps at all - Here's a picture of the back side of that connector:



    And here's where I mounted my jack. I didn't need my speakers anymore since I would be using the laptop in my car all the time so I removed them and that gave me a perfect spot to mount the jack:

    1995 AWD Tsi Talon

    Intel D945GCLF
    M2-ATX
    2GB Corsair
    30GB OCZ SSD
    BU-353
    Lilliput EBY-701
    Logitech DiNovo Mini
    LSX VOID 3.3

  7. #157
    Constant Bitrate rsxtypes's Avatar
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    I go back to my question from earlier: Do you own a multimeter? It is really hard to make guesses from a picture on where wires go. Guesses, that may or may not fry your system.

  8. #158
    Constant Bitrate RyanB95's Avatar
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    I don't own a multimeter, but I have access to one. I'll grab it today and try to figure it out. All I'm doing is figuring out which two soldering points beep when the button is pressed, correct? Polarity isn't an issue?
    1995 AWD Tsi Talon

    Intel D945GCLF
    M2-ATX
    2GB Corsair
    30GB OCZ SSD
    BU-353
    Lilliput EBY-701
    Logitech DiNovo Mini
    LSX VOID 3.3

  9. #159
    Constant Bitrate rsxtypes's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RyanB95 View Post
    I don't own a multimeter, but I have access to one. I'll grab it today and try to figure it out. All I'm doing is figuring out which two soldering points beep when the button is pressed, correct? Polarity isn't an issue?
    That is correct. You want to set the multimeter to Ohms. You aren't going to be interested in voltage or amperage. Polarity isn't an issue.

  10. #160
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    Laptop Power supply/ and auto power up /shut down

    Quote Originally Posted by W3bMa5t3r View Post
    Not really, but you can build these yourself and thus cheaper that way. Or having someone build one for you, saves you the time and effort and they are still cheaper than the other 'commercial' products. The commercial products do plug into serial ports, etc... usually. These we're building are just simple power on/off designs. The commercial ones also throw in all kinds of frills, bells and whistles, though you pay for that as well. All up to you... Just offering this as a service/as info for the community. ;-)
    Hello, I am new to this forum guys,

    I therefore introduce myself and let you know it's been a very educational site to read. Thanks for all your help.

    I would hope someone could reply to this request of an explanation.

    Basically i am about to biuld my first carputer. I was going to build it using an EPIA but then i found a new laptop with a faulty screen from factory for less that EUR 100 (USD 120 - GBP 65 ).

    So i bought this DELL XPS M1210 and going to use this as my carputer.

    I am going o use a touchscreen monitor as well and I am confused on what to do in respect of the followings:

    How to connect the laptop and the screen to a DC - DC supply

    so that

    the laptop and the screen to turn on together simultaneously as the ignition starts

    and turn off when i turn the engine off

    (with the possibility of deactivating this function).

    I hope someone is so king to help me, so far i have read all your threads but i am very confused. I have seen the switch shown in the pictures above but i don't understand how the laptop and the screen are powered.

    I am a total newbie, but i learn fast.. so please help :-)

    I promise i will post loasd of pictures as i build and finish my carputer..

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