So what am I supposed to do?
button is alot easier on many laptops (trust me ive repaired laptops for 2 years on job)
On mine there is no ribbon cable or similar. the button board presses onto a small connector on the mainboard then its screwed down. so no cables to play with. And you're not going to be able to solder onto the small connector on the mainboard. It's a press fit and very small, plus the button board sits on top of it blocking all access.
Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video
So what am I supposed to do?
1995 AWD Tsi Talon
Intel D945GCLF
M2-ATX
2GB Corsair
30GB OCZ SSD
BU-353
Lilliput EBY-701
Logitech DiNovo Mini
LSX VOID 3.3
Are you saying it would be easier to try to get at the wires behind this membrane (that is probably adhered to that plate) ...
than to solder on these clearly visible posts?
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I think RSX is right here, it'd probably be easier to solder to the leads from the socket for your ribbon cable. You'd just need to be very careful and very precise. Before you start, do like you did for the membrane switch/lid switch check the leads with a multimeter on the continuity setting. Have your ribbon cable in the socket, press your button and test the leads till you get the desired BEEP(make sure your laptop is unplugged and the battery is out)
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Thanks for cutting that picture down for me. I just wanted to add you are not looking at the pins inside the connector. You want to look at the soldering pads at the base of the connector. There are 5 of them clearly visible on this side of the connector. I am not sure what is on the other side of that connector there may be more.
Just in case it helps at all - Here's a picture of the back side of that connector:
And here's where I mounted my jack. I didn't need my speakers anymore since I would be using the laptop in my car all the time so I removed them and that gave me a perfect spot to mount the jack:
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1995 AWD Tsi Talon
Intel D945GCLF
M2-ATX
2GB Corsair
30GB OCZ SSD
BU-353
Lilliput EBY-701
Logitech DiNovo Mini
LSX VOID 3.3
I go back to my question from earlier: Do you own a multimeter? It is really hard to make guesses from a picture on where wires go. Guesses, that may or may not fry your system.
I don't own a multimeter, but I have access to one. I'll grab it today and try to figure it out. All I'm doing is figuring out which two soldering points beep when the button is pressed, correct? Polarity isn't an issue?
1995 AWD Tsi Talon
Intel D945GCLF
M2-ATX
2GB Corsair
30GB OCZ SSD
BU-353
Lilliput EBY-701
Logitech DiNovo Mini
LSX VOID 3.3
Hello, I am new to this forum guys,
I therefore introduce myself and let you know it's been a very educational site to read. Thanks for all your help.
I would hope someone could reply to this request of an explanation.
Basically i am about to biuld my first carputer. I was going to build it using an EPIA but then i found a new laptop with a faulty screen from factory for less that EUR 100 (USD 120 - GBP 65 ).
So i bought this DELL XPS M1210 and going to use this as my carputer.
I am going o use a touchscreen monitor as well and I am confused on what to do in respect of the followings:
How to connect the laptop and the screen to a DC - DC supply
so that
the laptop and the screen to turn on together simultaneously as the ignition starts
and turn off when i turn the engine off
(with the possibility of deactivating this function).
I hope someone is so king to help me, so far i have read all your threads but i am very confused. I have seen the switch shown in the pictures above but i don't understand how the laptop and the screen are powered.
I am a total newbie, but i learn fast.. so please help :-)
I promise i will post loasd of pictures as i build and finish my carputer..
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