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Thread: Laptop Auto Power-On / Turn-On Module

  1. #201
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    One quick question; I notice the contents of the 'black box' seem loose, and may rattle in my car. Is there any issue if I open it up, and secure everything with velcro or something?

  2. #202
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    Never mind I just added some fill below the circuit board.

    But I just discovered that this laptop will not boot (cold or from hibernation) with the lid closed, even though the BIOS is set to 'Active with lid closed'.

    Guess I'll have to go digging for those wires...

  3. #203
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    Never mind *again*; it works just fine with the lid closed as long as there's an external monitor. Duh!

  4. #204
    FLAC W3bMa5t3r's Avatar
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    lol... glad everything has been worked out. Thanks for the input about the box though. I had thought that with the box and cables being tied down it would be fine, but I guess there is still a chance for some movement, so I'll start adhering the circuit boards to the bottom. I don't want to make it permanent since some people like to fool around with their toys, so maybe industrial strength 3M double sided tape would work. Holding the circuit board to the bottom.

    Cheers,
    The W3bMa5t3r

  5. #205
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    I notice the board has mounting holes at the corners, but you'd have to glue down a bracket...

    Perhaps a piece of plastic screwed to the back of the board, and velcro that...

  6. #206
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    thread moved to the new Laptops forum.
    Jan Bennett
    FS: VW MKIV Bezel for 8" Lilliput - 95% Finished

    Please post on the forums! Chances are, someone else has or will have the same questions as you!

  7. #207
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    Don't know if this has been posted before, but the Inspiron 6400/E1505, for those that are interested, is very similar to the Dell above, only the power button pcb is smaller, and there is little room to route all but the smallest of wire, and there is little room on the chassis for the added port...

    I used the almost-non-shielded wire from Radio Shack, forget what they call it, but it's less than a half a millimeter thick and covered with some scrape-away insulation. It works great, the two wires soldered to pins 1 and 3 on the power switch, clearly marked, and will route under the power button PCB nicely. I would suggest using a small bit of electrical tape to assist insulating this type of wire wherever you go across edges and ridges where you decide to route the cable. Other than that, it works great and will not result in having to further modify any part of the laptop enclosure to route cable.

    For this laptop, I'd also advise a smaller plug than the one specified above, and route it to the rear part of the laptop out where the video card heatsink vents.
    I have too much time and too little aggravation in my life, so I built a carPC. ;)

  8. #208
    Low Bitrate esko's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hithere View Post
    Don't know if this has been posted before, but the Inspiron 6400/E1505, for those that are interested, is very similar to the Dell above, only the power button pcb is smaller, and there is little room to route all but the smallest of wire, and there is little room on the chassis for the added port...

    I used the almost-non-shielded wire from Radio Shack, forget what they call it, but it's less than a half a millimeter thick and covered with some scrape-away insulation. It works great, the two wires soldered to pins 1 and 3 on the power switch, clearly marked, and will route under the power button PCB nicely. I would suggest using a small bit of electrical tape to assist insulating this type of wire wherever you go across edges and ridges where you decide to route the cable. Other than that, it works great and will not result in having to further modify any part of the laptop enclosure to route cable.

    For this laptop, I'd also advise a smaller plug than the one specified above, and route it to the rear part of the laptop out where the video card heatsink vents.
    Can you provide a picture? I have the same laptop. Thanks!

  9. #209
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    i was very worried that i would damage my laptop soldering, so i went the cowards route and bought a docking station. if i messed up the soldering it would cost me a lot less to replace.


    iyou can see the output socket on the second picture
    Attached Images Attached Images   

  10. #210
    Constant Bitrate the_crooked_toe's Avatar
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    i'm currently in my first build for a carputer. i want to first say that this site has taught me wonders.

    now i'm stuck. i was looking into getting one of these modules. after talking with w3b he told me i have a membrane power switch (see below). I started reading about soldering the leads on the mobo. but i have a huge problem. there are 40 solder points on the mobo. i have my multimeter set on continuity and i'm getting some weird readings (note that this is the first time i've used a multimeter). I read earlier that polarity wasn't an issue. I have the red plugged into COM and the black plugged into V(ohm)mA on the mulitmeter. when i put the black on pin 34 or 36 and touch it to almost every point on the top it will get a reading in the range of 750 to 850. If i do black on 34 or 36, and touch the red to 38 then i get a reading of 088. If i switch it around and i do black to 38 and red to 34 or 36, then i get a reading of 1199. i also get a reading when i do black on 38 to red on 39 of 1403, but when i reverse the colors i get nothing. then when black is on 38 i don't get a reading anywhere else on the board. so the reading with the highest number is black 38 to red 39. does anyone have any insight?



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