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CoupeE46 · 02-11-2007, 02:49 PM

alright, here are the updates :::

Purchase a few more things today, adding the about $100 to the total.

Firewire-PCI Card (mianly for the M-Audio) ::

Tray Loaded Cd/DVD+/- combo ::

USB 10' Extension Cable (for lilliput TS feature) ::

10' SVGA Extension Cable (again for the lilliput) ::

Finally the Face of it all Lilliput 619gl TS ::

---------

Now for the wiring and testing of the system in the vehicle ..

First I had to figure out where to wire for power, and ground.. Since the PC will be located in the trunk and after a few reading and searching on the boards i figured a straight tap to the Battery terminal for Power and body chassis for Ground would be ideal. Luckily my battery is placed in the rear of the vehicle as well, so makes it a lot easier for access as well as running the wires. Also I have included a 15amp FUSE in the power line, just in case .

It was a good hour job to have everything wired to the Terminals, one of the reason was because my wire stripper was ****ty, so had to purchase a new one. Anyhow, got the wiring done, now it was time for testing to make sure the ground was good enough, as well as power. This is where my handy dandy UTI multimeter came in handy ..

Great, everything checked out fine ground is Good. Now I had to Power test the PSU to make sure it was working, so i had wired the Ignition Cable straight to the Positive terminal of the battery to see if it turned on, in an instant "we have Lift OFF!!" ..

---pic came out blurry

---

Now, it was time to find the Ignition WIRE/REmote wire in the vehicle to tap into. This process took probably a good 2 HOURS!!! because darn wire tap wasnt sharp enough..

.. Now for those with an E46 BMW, i found a great site writeup on the Color Codes and PIN description of the AMP Connector located in the Rear :: WIRE/PIN DESCRIPTION

Quote:

Note: You can read the connector number by removing its sleeve, it is actually two connectors hold by it. There are clips on the side end, All you have to do is pull up flap and slide them out. Knowing the polarity is only important if you plan on using existing tweeter and midrange units.

Brown color is always (-) or ground.

Power Connection
pin # Wire Color Description
10 White switched +12V (hot when radio on)
5 Red/Green +12V (always on, main power)
26 Brown ground (for amp power unit)

Input Connection (or head unit output)

pin #
Wire Color Description
37 Yellow/Red (+) Front left
30 Brown/Orange Front left ground
36 Yellow/Black (+) Rear left
29 Brown/Orange Rear left ground
9 Blue/Red (+) Front right
17 Brown/Orange Front right ground
8 Blue/Black (+) Rear right
16 Brown/Orange Rear right ground

Input and output (Amp Harness male)

Woofer connection

pin #
Wire Color Location
23 Blue/Red (+) Front right
22 Blue/Brown (-) Front right
25 Blue (+) Rear right
24 Brown (-) Rear right
2 Yellow (+) Rear left
1 Brown (-) Rear left
4 Blue/White (+) Front left
3 Blue/Brown (-) Front left

Tweeter Connection
pin # Wire Color Location
33 Yellow/Red (+) Front left
34 Yellow/Brown (-) Front left
31 Yellow/Black (+) Rear left
32 Yellow/Brown (-) Rear left
13 Yellow (+) Rear right
21 Blue/Yellow (-) Rear right
11 Blue/Black (+) Front right
12 Blue/Brown (-) Front right

Midrange Connection
(for HK Upgrade)
pin # Wire Color Location
41 Blue/Green (-) Front right
42 Green (+) Front right
39 Blue/white (-) Front left
40 White (+) Front left

So basically i found the ignition wire, just to double check i used the handy dandy multimeter , YUP struck gold when ignition is in the ON position its HOT .. I used a wire tap i picked up from autozone, to bad it did not even splice through the sleeve so took me 30minutes to figure out why the PC did not want to turn on, once again the MULTIMETER came in handy and figured out the tap was unsuccesfull , So i had to pry it open this time I took my Blade cut a small section of the sleeve to expose the wires of the IGNITION cable, and retapped, and WALLA it worked.

Connected all the wires (power/ground/ignition) turned the key, and and watch the MONSTER come to LIVE!!!

Now, it is time to tackle the next PHASE .. Wiring the lilliput for power, connect SVEN4 and Run wires to the front dashboard ..

STAY TUNED ...!!

EDIT!! *MUST READ* ::

ok, so i kinda goofed in the above post, yes when i tapped into the ignition wire from the AMP in the rear trunk, the system came alive, but you see i still had the stock HEADUNIT installed up front, now what happens is once the HEADUNIT is removed from the harness, that IGNITION wire i tapped into in the trunk from the AMP, becomes DEAD, which also means the AMP would not be powered as well, and that leads to no MUSIC!!

SO the quick-fix around it is this :: I basically ran a wire from the front to the rear (this wire is for the ignition wire) i tapped into the ignition wire from the front of the vehicle instead where it connects to the harness, then i ran that all the way to the rear and hooked it up to the carputers PSU, than i did another tap from that one ignition wire and wired it to the ignition wire that feeds to the AMP, now the AMP will be powered on when car is switched on ..

-Steph'

02-11-2007, 02:49 PM	#5
CoupeE46 Constant Bitrate Join Date: Nov 2006 Posts: 152	alright, here are the updates ::: Purchase a few more things today, adding the about $100 to the total. Firewire-PCI Card (mianly for the M-Audio) :: Tray Loaded Cd/DVD+/- combo :: USB 10' Extension Cable (for lilliput TS feature) :: 10' SVGA Extension Cable (again for the lilliput) :: Finally the Face of it all Lilliput 619gl TS :: --------- Now for the wiring and testing of the system in the vehicle .. First I had to figure out where to wire for power, and ground.. Since the PC will be located in the trunk and after a few reading and searching on the boards i figured a straight tap to the Battery terminal for Power and body chassis for Ground would be ideal. Luckily my battery is placed in the rear of the vehicle as well, so makes it a lot easier for access as well as running the wires. Also I have included a 15amp FUSE in the power line, just in case . It was a good hour job to have everything wired to the Terminals, one of the reason was because my wire stripper was **ty, so had to purchase a new one. Anyhow, got the wiring done, now it was time for testing to make sure the ground was good enough, as well as power. This is where my handy dandy UTI multimeter came in handy .. Great, everything checked out fine ground is Good. Now I had to Power test the PSU to make sure it was working, so i had wired the Ignition Cable straight to the Positive terminal of the battery to see if it turned on, in an instant "we have Lift OFF!!" .. ---pic came out blurry --- Now, it was time to find the Ignition WIRE/REmote wire in the vehicle to tap into. This process took probably a good 2 HOURS!!! because darn wire tap wasnt sharp enough.. .. Now for those with an E46 BMW, i found a great site writeup on the Color Codes and PIN description of the AMP Connector located in the Rear :: WIRE/PIN DESCRIPTION Quote: Note: You can read the connector number by removing its sleeve, it is actually two connectors hold by it. There are clips on the side end, All you have to do is pull up flap and slide them out. Knowing the polarity is only important if you plan on using existing tweeter and midrange units. Brown color is always (-) or ground. Power Connection pin # Wire Color Description 10 White switched +12V (hot when radio on) 5 Red/Green +12V (always on, main power) 26 Brown ground (for amp power unit) Input Connection (or head unit output) pin # Wire Color Description 37 Yellow/Red (+) Front left 30 Brown/Orange Front left ground 36 Yellow/Black (+) Rear left 29 Brown/Orange Rear left ground 9 Blue/Red (+) Front right 17 Brown/Orange Front right ground 8 Blue/Black (+) Rear right 16 Brown/Orange Rear right ground Input and output (Amp Harness male) Woofer connection pin # Wire Color Location 23 Blue/Red (+) Front right 22 Blue/Brown (-) Front right 25 Blue (+) Rear right 24 Brown (-) Rear right 2 Yellow (+) Rear left 1 Brown (-) Rear left 4 Blue/White (+) Front left 3 Blue/Brown (-) Front left Tweeter Connection pin # Wire Color Location 33 Yellow/Red (+) Front left 34 Yellow/Brown (-) Front left 31 Yellow/Black (+) Rear left 32 Yellow/Brown (-) Rear left 13 Yellow (+) Rear right 21 Blue/Yellow (-) Rear right 11 Blue/Black (+) Front right 12 Blue/Brown (-) Front right Midrange Connection (for HK Upgrade) pin # Wire Color Location 41 Blue/Green (-) Front right 42 Green (+) Front right 39 Blue/white (-) Front left 40 White (+) Front left So basically i found the ignition wire, just to double check i used the handy dandy multimeter , YUP struck gold when ignition is in the ON position its HOT .. I used a wire tap i picked up from autozone, to bad it did not even splice through the sleeve so took me 30minutes to figure out why the PC did not want to turn on, once again the MULTIMETER came in handy and figured out the tap was unsuccesfull , So i had to pry it open this time I took my Blade cut a small section of the sleeve to expose the wires of the IGNITION cable, and retapped, and WALLA it worked. Connected all the wires (power/ground/ignition) turned the key, and and watch the MONSTER come to LIVE!!! Now, it is time to tackle the next PHASE .. Wiring the lilliput for power, connect SVEN4 and Run wires to the front dashboard .. STAY TUNED ...!! EDIT!! MUST READ :: ok, so i kinda goofed in the above post, yes when i tapped into the ignition wire from the AMP in the rear trunk, the system came alive, but you see i still had the stock HEADUNIT** installed up front, now what happens is once the HEADUNIT is removed from the harness, that IGNITION wire i tapped into in the trunk from the AMP, becomes DEAD, which also means the AMP would not be powered as well, and that leads to no MUSIC!! SO the quick-fix around it is this :: I basically ran a wire from the front to the rear (this wire is for the ignition wire) i tapped into the ignition wire from the front of the vehicle instead where it connects to the harness, then i ran that all the way to the rear and hooked it up to the carputers PSU, than i did another tap from that one ignition wire and wired it to the ignition wire that feeds to the AMP, now the AMP will be powered on when car is switched on .. -Steph' Last edited by CoupeE46; 04-15-2007 at 09:44 PM.