Focal

I agree with the rewinding, although I would NEVER get it off eBay.

and as far as that amp, NO lol, look better something used, anything lol.

and no i would NOT downgrade to 500watts, keep the 1000 (wither you use it or not doesn't matter, keep it) you will have plenty of "headroom" if you just do things correctly, and hey im not saying that you wont get away with just running PDX amps and nothing else (i would do the big3 for sure, but sometimes even OEM uses larger wire then needed, example 70amp alternator, and the grounding, positive return is good for 80amp (in this case its pointless) but I'm going to go out on my way to assume honda probably didn't design there system like this, so check or just do it, it doesnt cost much.)

and just because the PDX s class D doesn’t mean it doesn’t draw hard..... it takes power to make power, if you don’t have any power to give, essentially it wont make any power, most of the installers I know, like ckass D, because you can get say 150RMS@4ohms, and 150RMS@2ohms, the draw is still very real, and your lights may very well dim with 2 PDXs don’t build a system on the premise they class D amps wont cause "dimming", I would suggest getting the alternator done.

Bite the bullet, get a ****ty amp for now, upgrade alternator, wire you alternator like was mentioned (big 3) use 4gauge-2gauge wire for added grounding/power, and also get a capacitor. that will give you as solid power delivery system, and out of curiosity, you have 2gauge wiring to the back don’t you?

or just do what i do for a lot of *friends* (ill refuse to do this for clients) just install as much amp as you want, turn gains way down until you can afford to upgrade alternator, but yeah i am going to stress the "big 3" if the honda you have has ****ty grounding and return.

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Mobile Dynamics, *B.S.E Honors, Working On B.S.M.E* Audio Engineering Society Member, LKKR Kickboxing 3X Gold Medalist, IDSF Competitive Dance, Can-Fit Pro Personal Trainer Certified.