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archaic0 · 06-29-2007, 10:46 AM

My specs are in my profile on the left there.

What PSU do you guys have powering your CarPC?

My windows aren't tinted just yet, it's a new car and that's a list of things I plan to do. I need to replace my winshield first though before I tint, it's got a crack on the passenger side. No sense in tinting until I replace that.

Now that I'm using my temp probe I'm finding that the trunk is actually cooler than the cabin by 5-15 degrees. This makes my initial set of globals invalid.

Yesterday afternoon it was only 85 outside, 115 in the cabin, and 100 in the trunk (computer case metal was 100 as well) and the system would not boot on it's own. However I don't think it was a temp issue yesterday because the CPU fan stayed on this time and a hard reset by me let it boot.

I'm starting to suspect the M2-ATX PSU to be the problem. It's had it's issues anyway previously and so I'm using it in an unorthodox way. It may simply be on it's way out or maybe it's the part that doesn't like the heat.

Because the M2 wouldn't consistantly boot my machine, I unhooked it's power button wire and left the case power button hooked up. I just let the PC stay on when I exit the car and the M2 kills power hard after 2 hours. Then I have bios set to power recovery and the PC boots on it's own when power comes back.

Every now and then though, the M2 does what happened yesterday. It seems to turn on the 5V rail but not the 12V rail because the CPU fan comes on but the PC itself doesn't. All I have to do is hold down the case power button to kill power, then wait a few seconds, then hit the power button to boot.

I'm in the market for a new PSU though, so maybe my issues will just go away.

The times it's been really hot though, like 140-150 in the trunk, I've witnessed the CPU fan coming on and then turning right back off, even after several hard boot attempts by me. When that happens, I've had to wait until I can cool the trunk down to try to boot again.

06-29-2007, 10:46 AM	#7
archaic0 Low Bitrate Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: McAlester, OK Posts: 108	My specs are in my profile on the left there. What PSU do you guys have powering your CarPC? My windows aren't tinted just yet, it's a new car and that's a list of things I plan to do. I need to replace my winshield first though before I tint, it's got a crack on the passenger side. No sense in tinting until I replace that. Now that I'm using my temp probe I'm finding that the trunk is actually cooler than the cabin by 5-15 degrees. This makes my initial set of globals invalid. Yesterday afternoon it was only 85 outside, 115 in the cabin, and 100 in the trunk (computer case metal was 100 as well) and the system would not boot on it's own. However I don't think it was a temp issue yesterday because the CPU fan stayed on this time and a hard reset by me let it boot. I'm starting to suspect the M2-ATX PSU to be the problem. It's had it's issues anyway previously and so I'm using it in an unorthodox way. It may simply be on it's way out or maybe it's the part that doesn't like the heat. Because the M2 wouldn't consistantly boot my machine, I unhooked it's power button wire and left the case power button hooked up. I just let the PC stay on when I exit the car and the M2 kills power hard after 2 hours. Then I have bios set to power recovery and the PC boots on it's own when power comes back. Every now and then though, the M2 does what happened yesterday. It seems to turn on the 5V rail but not the 12V rail because the CPU fan comes on but the PC itself doesn't. All I have to do is hold down the case power button to kill power, then wait a few seconds, then hit the power button to boot. I'm in the market for a new PSU though, so maybe my issues will just go away. The times it's been really hot though, like 140-150 in the trunk, I've witnessed the CPU fan coming on and then turning right back off, even after several hard boot attempts by me. When that happens, I've had to wait until I can cool the trunk down to try to boot again.