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scott_fx · 07-14-2007, 03:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by rijndael

Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go...

i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1

i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup...

my whole setup is this...

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs

>

The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though

hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol

edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any...

well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning.

to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles

as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards

07-14-2007, 03:31 AM	#19
scott_fx MySQL Error Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Los Angeles Ca Posts: 3,675	Quote: Originally Posted by rijndael Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go... i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1 i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup... my whole setup is this... http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs >> The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any... well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning. to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards __________________ New System in progress: M10k Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130 Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9 Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu Transflective Xenarc My Car Pc Install