Sorry, haven't been back on here in a bit.
Magnets don't affect LCD's, at least in my experience. The older monitors (CRT) can be affected. These are pretty low-power anyway, maybe some rare earth magnets or something might have more of an effect. (Edit: The more I think about this, Apple in the MacBook and HP in some of their newer models are using some pretty dang strong magnets as closure mechanisms for their laptops. Actually, the older iBooks used magnety things as clasps too. I bet those magnets are much closer to the LCD and much stronger than the ones I used. Honestly, the magnets I used aren't quite as strong as I'd like them to be, but it works for now. If I ever tear the dash apart again, I might experiment a little more to get a bit more solid of a magnetic attraction.)
Channel changing on Sirius is the same as on a "real" Sirius receiver. There is a noticeable delay, maybe 3 seconds max. Like I said, I think this is related to the nature of Sirius, and is not something that is because of the CarPC.
I got a few PM's that I'll address here for the greater good of the public:
"I have noticed that you have used the same screen as many other people on here....which screen is it? I am doing a dash fabrication myself and it seems to be a good one for the job."
I used the Digital WW version of the Xenarc LCD. I'm doing another install for my brother using the "true" Xenarc. There are absolutely no differences between the "real" Xenarc and the one that Digital WW sold me. It's the Xenarc 700TSV:
http://www.xenarc.com/product/700tsv.html
They apparently have a newer model for 2008, but mine's the plain-old one from "in the before time".
I also got a PM from someone with the same car, looking for some advice on the install itself. Basically, I put the radio where the one "tray" used to be, and put the screen where the radio was. The factory radio is a DIN-sized unit, but it's got a pocket below it that gives a little more area to work with. The toughest parts were moving the switches for the hazard and defrost, as the defrost switch was in the way. I decided to move it to where the hazard was, as that seemed like a logical place.
The fabrication was done with plastic scraps from a $1 trash can I found at Lowe's, some old DVD cases, standard 5 minute epoxy, some epoxy putty for the deeper fill that I needed, a bit of Bondo here and there (which some people are telling me might be a mistake, as it tends to crack), and some
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty as a skim-coat. Oh, and a whole ton of sanding. Once I had the plastics all set, I used some Spray Putty Primer (or Fill Primer), then I used some
Dupli-Color Trim Paint to match the OEM plastics (at least closely). It's all
covered in my worklog, but if you need more details, feel free to ask!!!