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FirebirdTN · 11-19-2007, 08:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scottgs

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You will lose reverse-polarity protection by doing this. Could be valuable if someone ever hooks up the battery backwards. I've had this happen and it blew my amps...

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You might want to be cautious removing the caps completely. Removing the caps will likely result in a reduction in low-frequency response and overall dynamic range. The caps are there for two reasons, one is to help filter noise and ripple, but the other is to provide a low-impedance high-current power source for the moments when a lot of power is necessary such as during heavy bass notes or drum beats. If you take out the caps, you will have to ensure you have heavy guage wiring all the way to the battery, and even then, the amp will probably still suffer.

If you look at the design of this amp kit, it is actually designed to be powered from an AC source, and has on-board rectification and filtration, but NO on board regulation. As I said above if your powering from a DC source, you can eliminate the large bulk caps as the bulk caps are meant to smooth the rectified AC; which is a non-issue in DC applications. Granted, automotive DC isn't "pure clean DC", but there is actually a total of 6 total capacitors on the supply rail-in the auto environment, the 3 bulk caps can be removed without a problem. Also, this is a 4 channel full range PDM amp, not a linear or sub amp, and at the power levels present, large bulk caps for bass response just isn't necessary. Absolute max current draw on this amp at 13.8volts with all channels driven with 4 ohm loads is only 13.8 amps.

It is true by removing the bridge you loose reverse polarity protection, but just pay attention to what your doing and don't reverse the leads. I personally want every bit of power I can get and do not want the voltage drop and its associated loss of power accross the bridge.

-Alan

11-19-2007, 08:06 PM	#17
FirebirdTN Low Bitrate Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 89	Quote: Originally Posted by scottgs [/i] You will lose reverse-polarity protection by doing this. Could be valuable if someone ever hooks up the battery backwards. I've had this happen and it blew my amps... [/i] You might want to be cautious removing the caps completely. Removing the caps will likely result in a reduction in low-frequency response and overall dynamic range. The caps are there for two reasons, one is to help filter noise and ripple, but the other is to provide a low-impedance high-current power source for the moments when a lot of power is necessary such as during heavy bass notes or drum beats. If you take out the caps, you will have to ensure you have heavy guage wiring all the way to the battery, and even then, the amp will probably still suffer. If you look at the design of this amp kit, it is actually designed to be powered from an AC source, and has on-board rectification and filtration, but NO on board regulation. As I said above if your powering from a DC source, you can eliminate the large bulk caps as the bulk caps are meant to smooth the rectified AC; which is a non-issue in DC applications. Granted, automotive DC isn't "pure clean DC", but there is actually a total of 6 total capacitors on the supply rail-in the auto environment, the 3 bulk caps can be removed without a problem. Also, this is a 4 channel full range PDM amp, not a linear or sub amp, and at the power levels present, large bulk caps for bass response just isn't necessary. Absolute max current draw on this amp at 13.8volts with all channels driven with 4 ohm loads is only 13.8 amps. It is true by removing the bridge you loose reverse polarity protection, but just pay attention to what your doing and don't reverse the leads. I personally want every bit of power I can get and do not want the voltage drop and its associated loss of power accross the bridge. -Alan Last edited by FirebirdTN; 11-19-2007 at 09:17 PM.