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cutting the wires damages the value of the vehicle. whenyou sell the car, I assume you wont be leaving the computer in there!
you can get a wire harness from any stereo shop for $15 or less. you can solder or crimp that, and it will plug into the stock harness directly. that way, you dont damage the vehicle, but get all the connections you could need or want.
if you insist on bypassing as much factory wiring as possible, then I would go to a custom shop (best buy or CC dont have them) and ask for some t-taps. they tap right into the factory wiring without actually cutting anything. you can disconnect the factory radio and tap into the wires in the kickpanel area (if you dont want to run 14 gauge into the doors) or you can tap just before the speakers themselves. as long as the factory radio is disconnected, you dont have to worry about backfeeding signals where you dont want them or having multiple signals sent to the speakers.
as far as resistance si concerned, if you go to most custom shops, they will splice into the wire harness I suggested first, even if you get a 50 watt 4 channel amplifier ot power all your drivers, and use the stock wiring anyways. this may not be ideal, but it works fine.
if you do decide to tap the wires closer to the speakers, remember that resistance (and therefore heat build up) is also defined by distance, as well as size! you can push 100 amps through an 8 gauge wire at 12 volts, if you wanted to! Just not for very long before heat becomes an issue. so if you wanted to install that 350 watt 2 channel amplifier powering your door speakers, you can still tap in the kickpanel or by the speakers and not notice any difference versus hooked to the speakers directly, bypassing all stock wiring.
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