canada64

my amp and subs where working then one day they stoped i hooked up my remote wire to my acc wire and the fuse blew so i hooked it to the battr and it blew i dount know if i need a whole new romote wire or not..please help!!

Thanks:

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h3rk

what fuse are you referring to? 30(ish) Amp fuses on the amplifier and/or the fuse you put on the battery side of the wire from the positive terminal to the amplifier? If so, the fact that they are blowing is most likely not an issue of where you have your remote wire tapped into for its 12V, hardly any current is asked for on that line by the amplifier. If this happens with the speakers disconnected from the amp, you probably have a large paper weight in your ride.

cbevis

Find a 12 volt line that's isolated from your HU power or accesory lead that turns off with the ignition when you hook up a remote wire. Most factory wire harnesses supply a remot lead...are you hardwireing this one in? The easiest is to just run a wire from the fuse box.... As hard as it is to believe, you're popping fuses because you're amp remote switch is drawing more power than the fuse is rated for....they don't typically fuse HUs with much room for additional power draw.

like h3rk said though....your amp may just be a glorified paper weight at this point.

hithere

It would be hard for me to believe your remote wire is drawing enough juice when turning a single amp on to blow fuses...that is, unless it is faulted or you have more on that accessory circuit than you let on in your post. As a test, try taking a new, good wire directly from a fuseblock close to the battery to the remote terminal on the amp, with the original remote wire removed (no un-fused connections to battery, not ever...you should rig a fuse in-line in the "test" wire) If it works, that tells you that your original remote wire is fried or faulted somewhere in the length from fuse block to amp input, and you should replace it entirely. If you blow another fuse, something is likely wrong internal to the amp. Make sure before you test that all wire end points are secured in place, no loose "live" wires.

As for me, I only use a "remote" wire on the accessory circuit to turn on a 30-amp car relay. The remote wire to the relay uses a very, very, low current to turn the relay on, and the relay in turn feeds power to varius items in the trunk (like my laptop, processor, "remote" lines to amps, etc.) directly from the battery (through proper fusing, of course). That way, I'm not adding significant current to accessory circuits designed for low draw, and I don't have to worry about upgrading factory accessory wiring/fuses. Also, the fuses I use on the switched power from the relay to my devices are physically larger, don't require a puller, and are easy to get to. If you think your remote wire is eating up too much current for the circuit it's on, I suggest you do same...30-amp relays are cheap as hell at radio shack, just make sure you have connectors and proper fusing after the relay for the load you intend. Also, do not feed power to your amp via the relay, only the remote signal.

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