Eclipse DCU105 DSP...no optical? - Page 2

rijndael · 07-12-2007, 10:30 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

what amp(s) do you have? it'll be easier for us to tell you how to hook it up when we know what the amp is capable of

I am using the DLS A4 amp http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_108

that should help

edit: for some reason, the image wont show up...just click on the link for the picture

scott_fx · 07-12-2007, 11:43 PM

what a bad *** amp!

so yeah you'd go:
car pc-> dac -> amp

you may need a splitter if the amp doesn't have a switch to send the signal to all chans from a stereo pair... not a big deal

then you just wire it like normal. just make sure that the x-over settings on the amps will work with your set up. if it doesnt you may need an active x-over after the dac...but i'd assume that that amp has a pretty good x-over

rijndael · 07-13-2007, 06:09 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

what a bad *** amp!

so yeah you'd go:
car pc-> dac -> amp

you may need a splitter if the amp doesn't have a switch to send the signal to all chans from a stereo pair... not a big deal

then you just wire it like normal. just make sure that the x-over settings on the amps will work with your set up. if it doesnt you may need an active x-over after the dac...but i'd assume that that amp has a pretty good x-over

Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go...

i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1

i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup...

my whole setup is this...

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs

>

The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though

hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol

edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any...

sound card: http://www.newegg.com/Product/Produc...82E16829271002

Model
Brand HT OMEGA
Model CLARO
Audio core
Audio Chipset C-Media CMI8788
Channels 7.1
Sample Rate 192KHz
Digital Audio 24-bit
SNR 115dB
Hardware Decode Dolby Digital, DTS
Ports
Line In Yes
Line Out Front/Rear/Center/Subwoofer/Rear Center
SPDIF In Optical and Coaxial
SPDIF Out Optical and Coaxial
MIC In Yes
MIDI/Joystick No
CD/Aux In Yes

Spec

Interface PCI
Operating Systems Supported Windows 2000 Service Pack 3(SP3) / XP Service Pack 1(SP1) / Server 2003 SP1/ XP Media Center Edition 2005 (MCE) / XP x64 Edition
Features
Features Built in front panel audio connect, Enhanced microphone volume level
The C-Media Oxygen HD CMI8788 Audio Processor is main engine of CLARO
4 pcs 24-bit/192kHz AK4396VF (120dB-part spec.) DACs for 7.1channel output. (24-bit/192kHz in 7.1channel playback)
1 pc 24-bit/192kHz WM8785G (110dB-part spec.) ADC input (24-bit/192kHz recording)
1 pc CMI9780 AC'97 2.3 CODEC for AUX input, CD input, MIC input (16bit/48kHz playback/recording)
Integrated up to 192k/24-bit S/PDIF high grade special Optical and Coaxial connectors for 44.1kHz,48kHz, 96kHz, 192kHz SPDIF output. (work simultaneously)
Integrated up to 192k/24-bit S/PDIF high grade special Optical receiver for 44.1kHz,48kHz, 96kHz, 192kHz SPDIF input.
Supports onboard Coaxial or CD Digital input connector for up to 192kHz SPDIF input. (Optional Cable need for Coaxial input)
Standard 10PIN Front Panel Audio supports connectivity for stereo audio output and a microphone input from PC case
DTS Interactive - A real-time 5.1 channel encoder.
DTS Neo:PC - An upmix matrix technology.
Dolby Digital Live (DDL) - A real-time 5.1 channel encoding.
Dolby ProLogic IIx surround processor spreading stereo audio into 7.1 channel surround sound.
Dolby Headphone technology, conveying 5.1 surround and 3D gaming audio over stereo headphones.
Dolby Virtual Speaker solution, bringing amazing virtual surround sound fields via general two speakers.
C-Media FlexBass - LFE channel crossover frequency setable from range 50 to 250Hz in Small speaker mode and Small/Large speaker selectable.
C-Media Magic Voice, popular feature for disguising your tone in online chatting.
C-Media Xear 3D 7.1 Virtual Speaker Shifter technology.
C-Media's unique Karaoke functions: Microphone Echo, Key-shifting.
Individual 10-band EQ for each channel,.27 global reverberation environments.
Supports most industrial standards of 3D sound for PC gaming, including EAX 1.0 & 2.0, A3D 1.0, and DirectSound.

scott_fx · 07-14-2007, 02:31 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by rijndael

Thanks for the props on my amp...i couldnt decide between the DLS and the 5.1 optical-in amp that is mentioned on a few of the threads here (too lazy to look for the name right now)...but the latter amp wouldnt have worked with optical because of the missing remote...but anyways...i was really hoping that that amp would have been good to go...

i hope i [bold]dont[/bold] win the ebay auction http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...2257&rd=1&rd=1

i bid on that item before i realized that the DAC is more like what i need, and not the whole H701/RUX setup...

my whole setup is this...

http://www.dls.se/en/car/prod.html?produkt=en_81 <<<<Speakers webpage for specs

>

The x-overs from DLS that came with the speakers should be good enough, right? I remember being either told or just reading somewhere that the H701 has an active x-over system? how would i go about making my speakers "active"? and would that be good for my speakers? know what i mean? like i said...i've never been a fan of the whole car stereo install process...i just dont know enough about it...i've been learning though

hopefully this post wasnt too jammed-up and scrambled all over the place for you...it makes sense to me...lol

edit: when my computer gets back from MSI, heres what the specs are for the sound card...so if this helps any...

well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning.

to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles

as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards

rijndael · 07-14-2007, 02:41 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

well even if you did win the alpine unit, it's an amazing unit and you'll get great sound from it and it's easy to set up to get good sound. you also have more flexibility for tuning.

to go active you'll need to buy another amp for the sub. you then would use one channel per speaker. meaning the dls amp will power the tweeters and the woofers... wire chan one to the left tweet, chan two to the right tweet, chan three to the left mid and chan four to the right mid. the second amp will power the subwoofer. that is roughly what i'm doing and it gives you the best sound and tuning options since you're not bound to what dls has deemed the best x-over settings to sound good in the widest variety of vehicles

as far as the soundcard, you may not need it if your motherboard has coax digital out like the via epia boards

I did win the unit...so it should be on its way shortly...

its a 3 way component system, so the tweets and woofers on the left for "1" and the tweets and woofers on the right for "2" and for "3" and "4" i would power the mids? i have 6 speakers up front...and none in the back for right now. i will probably get some 6x9's in the back, and maybe 1 8 or 10 inch sub...and 2 more tweeters right about where the rearview mirror is on the ceiling pointing directly towards the back.

im so very very confused about this...lol...

btw...i built the computer...its a Core2Duo E6300 paired with an MSI 945GM motherboard. so i do need the sounds card...and all i need to do after the H701 is installed and hooked up to the speakers is take the Optical Out from the sound card and put it in the H701 and then tune it, right?

scott_fx · 07-14-2007, 03:06 AM

if you could afford/fit another a4 amp you could power every speaker independently for a fully active setup :-)

as for rear speakers...id only add the amp, you'll be much better off with just front speakers and a sub. a lot of times in car audio, less is more

congrads on the h701...it's a great unit, i really liked it when i had it

rijndael · 07-14-2007, 03:12 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

if you could afford/fit another a4 amp you could power every speaker independently for a fully active setup :-)

as for rear speakers...id only add the amp, you'll be much better off with just front speakers and a sub. a lot of times in car audio, less is more

congrads on the h701...it's a great unit, i really liked it when i had it

Thanks Scott...

So i should just get another amp and a sub, not the 6x9's? sounds good to me, cause i was really hoping to use the speaker slots to hold the GPS and Wi-Fi...lol

ok...so how should i wire up the whole thing? or is that already mentioned in one of the threads on the forum?...

scott_fx · 07-14-2007, 11:39 AM

iirc the h701 has 4 sets of preouts. you go optical from your soundcard to the h701. from the h701 you get four sets of rca's one to each set of inputs on your amps. then you wire each speaker to it's own chan on the amp (you no longer need the passive x-overs that came with the speakers) then you just adjust your x-overs and time align and tune.

scott_fx · 07-14-2007, 11:42 AM

since you have 400 wrms and you're concerned with sq over spl you should take a look at the tc-sounds tc-9 or tc-2000. if you get the dual 4 ohm versions you'll have great sound and not break the bank either

rijndael · 07-14-2007, 05:59 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

since you have 400 wrms and you're concerned with sq over spl you should take a look at the tc-sounds tc-9 or tc-2000. if you get the dual 4 ohm versions you'll have great sound and not break the bank either

definately noted....thanks Scott...and RED...and everyone else that helped me with this...i appreciate it.

The H701 is on its way (come Monday)...and that TC-9 looks like it's the winner for the sub...thanks..now i just need another amp...damn this thing is getting expensive...lol

rijndael · 07-14-2007, 08:30 PM

I just bought the TC-9 15" (no 12" in stock...dammit..) http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm

the new amp is the DSL A6 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2007-DLS-A6-...QQcmdZViewItem

i already have a 1 farad Fosgate Power cap from a few years ago when i had my 2 Fosgate HX2's....is 1 farad going to be enough without upgrading my alternator or battery? im kinda running out of money...lol

and i know this has gotten a bit off topic...i just dont think its necessary to start a whole new thread for the questions i have...

scott_fx · 07-15-2007, 12:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by rijndael

I just bought the TC-9 15" (no 12" in stock...dammit..) http://www.tcsounds.com/tc9.htm

the new amp is the DSL A6 http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2007-DLS-A6-...QQcmdZViewItem

i already have a 1 farad Fosgate Power cap from a few years ago when i had my 2 Fosgate HX2's....is 1 farad going to be enough without upgrading my alternator or battery? im kinda running out of money...lol

and i know this has gotten a bit off topic...i just dont think its necessary to start a whole new thread for the questions i have...

nice choice, if you want the 12" i think they do have some available:
http://www.tcsounds.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1220

i'd email them and see if they are still available.

i wouldn't even bother with the cap, you have high end amps and their power supplies should handle the power just fine. I'd upgrade the 'big 3' wires and use 0 gauge wire and you should have some good results and probably not need to upgrade the alt..

rijndael · 07-15-2007, 01:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

nice choice, if you want the 12" i think they do have some available:
http://www.tcsounds.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1220

i'd email them and see if they are still available.

i wouldn't even bother with the cap, you have high end amps and their power supplies should handle the power just fine. I'd upgrade the 'big 3' wires and use 0 gauge wire and you should have some good results and probably not need to upgrade the alt..

not too sure what the "big 3" wires are, but ill google that in a bit.

thanks man...

EDIT: found it for anyone else who doesnt know what that is....and heres a tag for searching on this forum: Upgrading the "BIG 3"

http://www.the12volt.com/installbay/...TID=73496&PN=1