mk5fez

ok ive got this sub
http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products...1D4/index.html

and this amp
http://www.caraudiocentre.co.uk/prod...90_p-23024.htm
http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/e...9/lastscan.jpg

atm ive got it wired like this
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningc...F4%2Dohm%5F2ch

whats the rms output of my sub atm with that set up can anyone tell me?

now the amp says its 2-8ohm STEREO stable so does this mean that i CANT wire it to a 2ohm mono? like this
http://www.crutchfield.com/learningc...4%2Dohm%5Fmono

which my understanding is would give it more power/rms output

thanks for any help

Ash

MP3Car.com

 

pokki

Per your current wiring, maximum continous RMS output is 250 watts.


Correct. Your amp is not designed to run at 2ohm bridged. Doing so could damage it.

PS that 4ohm mono bridged rating of 3700 watts is a typo. In theory I'd expect a max continous RMS output of 415 watts x1 (bridged). Which means some of the other ratings are bogus. I.e. I'd expect 2x 207 RMS at 2ohm, but the 4ohm spec may be right.

mk5fez

so i need a mono amp to run it 2ohm mono then, can anyone recommend one for me.

sigh thing is i bought 2 of these subs and that amp as a package and that amp is no where near the right power is it.

Mylt1

that amp is no where near powerful enough to run that sub. the sub is rated at 1000w RMS and your amp a 2ohms is only 250w rms. you need an amp that is above 900w RMS mono in 2ohms to run that sub.

pokki

If running two subs of that amp you could get 400 watts RMS out of it by wiring each sub to 8ohm then parallel wiring them to 4ohm to the amp bridged.

400 watts RMS is nothing to sneeze at. Especially when you consider it takes twice the power to gain 3db. However a good, high powered, 1ohm stable d class monoblock will get the most out of your two subs.

I've no idea what country you're in so won't recomend any specific brands/models. But if you can afford it - see what you local SPL/dBdrag competitors run. If their amps can stand the abuse they give them, then it should be good enough for you.

Another tip - always check the fuse sizing to verify if the power output is legit.
Fuse size x 13.8 volts x efficiencey (0.9 class d, or 0.6 class B) = output watts

This figure is a good approximation of the maximum continous RMS output the amp is capable off.

mk5fez

would this be ok http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/JBL-GTO-1201-1...QQcmdZViewItem

its 1100rms and the sub is 1000rms does this mean that its gona dmg the sub?

cheers

pokki

Yes that'll be fine for running one of your subs (though personally I'd never choose those JBL amps).

The extra 100 watts won't blow your sub if you setup your system correctly.

MP3Car.com