How's this audio setup sound?

Sonicxtacy02 · 01-09-2008, 02:53 PM

I'm looking to upgrade the audio in my accord now that my carputer is all but complete (least i hope it is). The current system consists of:

-Sound Blaster Live USB
-400 watt Boss 4ch. amp
-6 1/2" Pioneer front midranges (no idea of model .. came with car)
-stock tweets
-stock rears
-Visonik compact 500w sub and amp

pretty sad right lol. Here's what i'm looking to get into:

-Same Sound Blaster live USB
-Rockford Fosgate 3Sixty.1
-AMP (havent decided which.. help me out)
-Infinity Kappa component set for fronts
-no rears
-2 Dual 1100max subs
-alpine sub amp

Hows that sound for a nice upgrade to what i currently have? Couple more questions/notes

1. I feel like the sound blaster is the real weak link still but i'm not quite sure. I know the subwoofer line voltage is TERRIBLE on it though. Will the 3Sixty be all i need to get that voltage up?

2. I know the 3sixty can be controlled via palm bluetooth but is there software i can run straight from my pc that works as well. i have a bluetooth dongle of course

3. I've considered swapping the Infinity's for a DLS component system, but because of there cost it wouldnt be there top of the line model. Should i stick with the infinity's (with there piercing tweets) or go DLS 4th gen or so

4. Which amp (2ch or 4ch, i may add rears later) should i install. Or will the boss which has been good to me for the few years i've had it be good with the 3sixty's support?

thanks in advance!

pokki · 01-09-2008, 03:02 PM

Quote:

3. I've considered swapping the Infinity's for a DLS component system, but because of there cost it wouldnt be there top of the line model. Should i stick with the infinity's (with there piercing tweets) or go DLS 4th gen or so

That all depends if you like the infinities. If you don't like their sound then yes look at alternatives.

Quote:

4. Which amp (2ch or 4ch, i may add rears later) should i install. Or will the boss which has been good to me for the few years i've had it be good with the 3sixty's support?

Although I'm no fan of BOSS, and would never recomend it, provided the amps working well, you're not going to experience any major differrence upgrading amps with the components you are looking at.

PS nice to see someone drop rear speakers - they realy are a waste in many cars.

Sonicxtacy02 · 01-09-2008, 03:06 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pokki

That all depends if you like the infinities. If you don't like their sound then yes look at alternatives.

Actually this is the only car i've ever owned that does not have infinity's lol. I do like there clarity. And i also like the fact that they put out almost NO bass so i can leave that to my subwoofer without having to actively cross them over.

pokki · 01-09-2008, 03:13 PM

Quote:

1. I feel like the sound blaster is the real weak link still but i'm not quite sure. I know the subwoofer line voltage is TERRIBLE on it though. Will the 3Sixty be all i need to get that voltage up?

Going from the specs, the 3sixty can boost the input by 10dB, which is approx 8x the input voltage up-to a max of 5 volts. So presuming you have a 1 volt output from your soundcard the 3sixty should be able to boost to a full 5volts.

Quote:

2. I know the 3sixty can be controlled via palm bluetooth but is there software i can run straight from my pc that works as well. i have a bluetooth dongle of course

RF don't state windows support in the specs for the 3sixty. However Windows mobile is listed so you may be able to control it on the PC via a emulator.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/produ...S&series_id=49

**Edit - actually there is beta windows support/control, see here:
http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/scrip...%3Afaqs.faq_id
**

RedGTiVR6 · 01-09-2008, 03:27 PM

I'd get rid of the boss amp no matter what. Just about anything will be a better amplifier than anything from boss, same with the dual subs...

both of those lines are about as bottom of the barrel as you can get.

Buy reputable equipment and you won't be replacing it as quickly.

I'd go DLS over Infinity for the speakers, and any well known, name brand amplifier will do. Pick some out and post some choices up. If anyone tells you to go with any particular brand I'd be weary. Sticking with any well known name brand amplifier will yield the same results. If you were going with high end equipment I'd say different, but since you're using a boss amp and dual subs, you won't notice a difference.

RedGTiVR6 · 01-09-2008, 03:28 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by pokki

you're not going to experience any major differrence upgrading amps with the components you are looking at.

actual rated power being delivered and not just claimed, less clipping, less over heating, less distortion, etc. I'd say those are reasons enough to make the upgrade and get rid of the POS...

durwood · 01-09-2008, 03:39 PM

I could recommed a just about anything to you, but without a budget I don't know where you stand.

Kimota · 01-09-2008, 03:40 PM

Hi Sonic

Quote:

1. Will the 3Sixty be all I need to get that voltage up?

I believe your referring to the REM connection used to turn the 3Sixty.1 on. Not sure if the sound blaster will suffice but you can tap into any circuit switched with the ignition for the REM.

Quote:

2. I know the 3sixty can be controlled via palm Bluetooth but is there software I can run straight from my pc that works as well. I have a Bluetooth dongle of course

Sure can here's the link just make sure to download the version for the 3 Sixty.1

Quote:

3. I've considered swapping the Infinity's for a DLS component system, but because of there cost it wouldn’t be there top of the line model. Should I stick with the infinity's (with there piercing tweets) or go DLS 4th gen or so

I think the Infinity's are a good choice.

Quote:

4. Which amp (2ch or 4ch, I may add rears later) should I install. Or will the boss which has been good to me for the few years I’ve had it be good with the 3sixty's support?

I’m partial to the alpine PDX 4.150

Concerning the 2 Dual 1100max subs, do you mean each sub will be 1100 RMS or together will both subs total 1100RMS. If each sub you’re looking at is 1100 RMS you’re probably going to need an amp for each sub. If both subs together total 1100 RMS I'd recommend Alpine PDX 1.1000 and 2X Alpine R type subs.

I'm using the 3Sixty.2 (I'm using my factory head unit) in my setup and do have the software loaded on my CarPC but generally I find it quicker and easier to make adjustments using my Pocket PC.

P.S

You can find some really great price for your equipment on Ebay
Good luck with the setup

pokki · 01-09-2008, 03:51 PM

Quote:

actual rated power being delivered and not just claimed, less clipping, less over heating, less distortion, etc. I'd say those are reasons enough to make the upgrade and get rid of the POS...

Although I agree they're not by any means good, they often lie about their ratings, and the long term reliability is questionable, it's still prety hard to make a bad sounding amp. In this situation clipping should be illiminated though correct install, speaker distortion is going to be significantly higher than the amps (below clipping), as for heat output - can't comment there.

And if they didn't already own it, then yes I'd tell them to keep away. But the money spent upgrading the amp would be better spent on better front speakers and the quality installation of them, presumign the owner is comfortable with the long term reliability aspects fo theri current amp.

RedGTiVR6 · 01-09-2008, 03:55 PM

I disagree, but I'll leave it there.

Sonicxtacy02 · 01-09-2008, 04:11 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6

actual rated power being delivered and not just claimed, less clipping, less over heating, less distortion, etc. I'd say those are reasons enough to make the upgrade and get rid of the POS...

i was under the impression that the 3sixty would in effect remove any distortion created by the amp. Is this not the case? I'm not an advocate at all for Boss.. the only reason i have this amp is my head unit died and i needed sound straight from the sound card asap so i'll probably be ditching it.. My question is just out of curiousity

Quote: Originally Posted by Kimota

Hi Sonic

I believe your referring to the REM connection used to turn the 3Sixty.1 on. Not sure if the sound blaster will suffice but you can tap into any circuit switched with the ignition for the REM.

Sure can here's the link just make sure to download the version for the 3 Sixty.1

I think the Infinity's are a good choice.

I’m partial to the alpine PDX 4.150

Concerning the 2 Dual 1100max subs, do you mean each sub will be 1100 RMS or together will both subs total 1100RMS. If each sub you’re looking at is 1100 RMS you’re probably going to need an amp for each sub. If both subs together total 1100 RMS I'd recommend Alpine PDX 1.1000 and 2X Alpine R type subs.

I'm using the 3Sixty.2 (I'm using my factory head unit) in my setup and do have the software loaded on my CarPC but generally I find it quicker and easier to make adjustments using my Pocket PC.

P.S

You can find some really great price for your equipment on Ebay
Good luck with the setup

i was referring to the voltage put out from the audio line of the sound card to the amp.

The subs are a max wattage of 1100 each. I believe they are 600 watts RMS @ 4ohms. I'm not trying to rattle the car at all with the power output of the subs i just basically would like full sound that the infinity components dont allow for. I know dual is best buys basement brand but i already have them and lets face it.. its a helluva better upgrade than the visonik crap i have now.

Sonicxtacy02 · 01-09-2008, 04:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by durwood

I could recommed a just about anything to you, but without a budget I don't know where you stand.

i dont want to spend more than $400 for the components and $300 for the component amp.

durwood · 01-10-2008, 02:58 PM

Do you happen to know the mounting size and depth? Where are the locations of the tweeters? (apillar or dash?) I'm not completely familiar with that car. I can price you out a killer setup for that budget. One thign to think about, what is it that you don't like that you want to change? If the tweeters are the lacking component, focus on those. Go active, ditch the passives and swap the tweeters. If you need more midbass or midrange, then think about changing the whole set.

Too bad on the subs, but maybe with what you save on my recommendations, you can upgrade, but if they have worked for you and are still holding up, they are the least important speaker.

if you can fit a 7" midbass:

Creative Sound SDX7 $200 pair

if you have to go with a 6.5"

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-162
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-164
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6218

watchout for depth

Tweeter

Seas Neo Aluminum $60 pair

Amps:
JL audio A6450 or 4300
USAMP XT1600.4 or XT800.4

Did you plan on running the speakers active or with a passive crossover? I'm not sure what the 360.1 can do, but the 360.2 does have crossovers.

These are just some of the things I have noted as good performers.

Added:

I just remembered this.

Behringer DCX2496 + DC-DC supply
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/high...er-supply.html

if you have the room, that would be a great solution instead of the rockford piece. It even has software you can use to set it up.

scott_fx · 01-13-2008, 04:33 PM

i agree with durwood, if you're going to go with a processor like the rf or the behringer (i have that one) definitely take advantage of going fully active. for mids i'd look into the Vifa XG18 or seas rnx line or Peerless Exclusive 830883

here is some more info on those drivers:
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...ight=Vifa+XG18

just keep in mind that you'll need 5 chans of amplification (four for the mids/tweets, one for the sub) But the jump in quality of your components is far beyond what you could find for a similarly priced pre made component set.

as far as the behringer unit, you actually dont need a lot of room if you take it out of the case. the actual brains of the unit is probably smaller then your car's owners manual.

Sonicxtacy02 · 01-13-2008, 08:16 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by durwood

Do you happen to know the mounting size and depth? Where are the locations of the tweeters? (apillar or dash?) I'm not completely familiar with that car. I can price you out a killer setup for that budget. One thign to think about, what is it that you don't like that you want to change? If the tweeters are the lacking component, focus on those. Go active, ditch the passives and swap the tweeters. If you need more midbass or midrange, then think about changing the whole set.

Too bad on the subs, but maybe with what you save on my recommendations, you can upgrade, but if they have worked for you and are still holding up, they are the least important speaker.

if you can fit a 7" midbass:

Creative Sound SDX7 $200 pair

if you have to go with a 6.5"

http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-162
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=299-164
http://www.woofersetc.com/index.cfm?...roduct_ID=6218

watchout for depth

Tweeter

Seas Neo Aluminum $60 pair

Amps:
JL audio A6450 or 4300
USAMP XT1600.4 or XT800.4

Did you plan on running the speakers active or with a passive crossover? I'm not sure what the 360.1 can do, but the 360.2 does have crossovers.

These are just some of the things I have noted as good performers.

Added:

I just remembered this.

Behringer DCX2496 + DC-DC supply
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/high...er-supply.html

if you have the room, that would be a great solution instead of the rockford piece. It even has software you can use to set it up.

the car has 6 3/4" in the front.. mounting depth wont be an issue because i'm fiberglassing my own door panel mounts. i doubt i could get a 7" in with enough room to spare though. The stock tweets are high on the dash ... close to the position of the VIN number. As for passive vs. active i really cant say because i've never run an active setup. As for what i'm looking for.. basically i'm looking for full range sound. With my current setup i've got blaring highs and pretty violent lows. I'd say every range from about 160hz to 3k is SEVERELY lacking. Software adjustable Eq dont help at all and my music flat out sounds like **** unless i'm using winamp's "DSP" plugin. as for the processor.. i'm content with the 360.1 . It has adjustable x'overs for each source and i've also discovered windows software that works with it. I'm gonna go ahead and do a little more homework in the speaker and amp selection. i appreciate the recommendations

User Name		Remember Me?
Password