Multichannel INPUT soundcard for carPC?

Ge0 · 02-02-2008, 12:38 AM

I know there are a number of options out on the market that will give you multiple outputs (6 or 8 channel) and a stereo 2 channel input.

However, I'm looking to build a CarPC processor that requires 4 channel input and 9 outputs.

Anyone have a clue if a 4 channel input soundcard exists? I plan on using VST plugins to do some audio processing. Processed signal will be routed to multiple amp channels.

If such a card does not exist, is it possible to stack two soundcards together to gain 4 channel input, but route the signals to whatever output channels I desire?

Ge0

durwood · 02-02-2008, 01:25 PM

Hey Ge0

Does it need to be USB, firewire, PCI?

Budget?

Or just looking for general info?

Not quite 8/9 channels but it's a start. 4 in/6 out.

http://www.emu.com/products/product....&product=13554

durwood · 02-02-2008, 01:33 PM

A few more different options:

http://www.esi-audio.com/products/esu1808/
http://www.esi-audio.com/products/esp1010/
http://www.esi-audio.com/products/maxioxd/

Look at the pro cards. I'd be surprised if there are any consumer grade cards out there.

I think you can string two M-audio 1010LT's together. On their own, they say it's 8x8 analog in/out, but I think that means you can configure the 8 analog channels as either IN or OUT. You'd have to read the manual to be sure. pwntbypat said that two cards can be used together and when I was reading the manual I remember reading a little about that. Two of those cards would give you 4 in/16 out.

Ge0 · 02-02-2008, 04:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by durwood

Hey Ge0
Does it need to be USB, firewire, PCI?

Budget?

Or just looking for general info?

I'd prefer a USB solution to begin with. I'm going to experiment with various concepts using my laptop. If I obtain desirable results then I'll move to the next phase and build up a CarPC. The laptop does not have fire wire input. Only USB. Obviously a PCI solution isn't going to work too well (I think). That is a shame. The M-Audio 1010LT seems like the perfect fit price and performance wise.

I'm targeting right around the $200 mark to begin with. I don't want to skimp on something so important but don't want to go overboard either.

I'd like to buy the pieces needed over the remainder of this winter so I can start experimentation as soon as it warms up another 30 degrees

.

In the future I intend on embeding the CarPC in that center console we were talking about over on DIYMA. I could squeeze a mini-ITX system in the lower part of the storage compartment. I'll put the sound card down in the passaengers side kick panel where the factory amp currently resides. All my Zapco balanced line transmitters are resting there waiting for an alternate input source.

Current system

Factory head to Factory amp. Factory amp has Front tweet, front mid, rear mid, and subwoofer outputs. The speaker level outputs of the factory amp are routed to the DC650.6 (front mids and tweets + rear mids) and the DC500.1 (sub). I MAY add another amp in the near future to add a set of midranges up front so the door speakers don't have to play up to 3KHz. I believe I'd get better imaging if I could aim the drivers playing the primary vocal range a little better. Or, I'll change up the speaker configurations altogether to fool around with some of the playback methods we have been discussing.

The Factory amp will be removed. In its place a PC-Audio CanBUS to RCA line level out converter will give me 4 outputs from the facotry head that I can fade and balance with the factory head. The ability to fade is important to me. I don't want the kids to be irritated by music when they are in the car. I don't want to give up my music. The 4 line level outputs from the PAC-Audio piece will feed into the sound card. Up to 9 outputs from the sound card will be routed to my amps.

With this the groundwork will be laid for a very flexible system. TO begin with I'll screw with signal manipulation and processing as we have been discussing. In the future I have the ability to add on a touch screen interface so I can also use the PC to be a music server.

Ge0

scott_fx · 02-02-2008, 04:06 PM

firewire?
http://www.echoaudio.com/Products/Fi...re12/index.php

woops, just read your last post. no firewire

if you're just worried about losing your fading ability why don't you just get some log. attenuators wired in line with your low level inputs on the rear chans. this will give you the ability to adjust the volume on the rears independently from the fronts.

Oh, and why are you keeping the factory headunit?

hey ge0... are you on diyma?

durwood · 02-02-2008, 08:45 PM

ya he's on diyma.

Ge0 I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but $200 isn't going to do it, not for USB. There are not many USB cards out there, and even less that will have what you are looking for.

If you go to firewire, those options increase, but it's going to be hard to find something at that budget.

can you do PCIMA? How about a PCIMA firewire card to a firewire soundcard? The reason there are more firewire options is bandwidth. Firewire uses less resources than USB which is a resource hog when it comes to audio/video.

Ge0 · 02-02-2008, 09:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scott_fx

firewire?
http://www.echoaudio.com/Products/Fi...re12/index.php

woops, just read your last post. no firewire

if you're just worried about losing your fading ability why don't you just get some log. attenuators wired in line with your low level inputs on the rear chans. this will give you the ability to adjust the volume on the rears independently from the fronts.

Oh, and why are you keeping the factory headunit?

hey ge0... are you on diyma?

I'd really prefer to keep all controls centrally located at the head unit. I don't like the idea of an external pot used to fade. Trying to keep this clean and stock looking as possible. I've never been into hidden auxilary knobs, even when bass boost knobs were the craze.

So, I'd like to keep the 4 channel input requirement. Now, I may be able to get by with less outputs than I initially spec'd. Two outputs for front midbass and tweets (I'll let my Zappy amp do the crossovers), two outputs for the rears, and a single output for the sub. I'd like at least one spare for future considerations. That makes 6 outputs. 8 would be nice but for the time being I can live with 6.

Oh, BTW, this is the same Ge0 from DIYMA.

Ge0

scott_fx · 02-02-2008, 09:34 PM

i agree with you about the hidden knobs thing. you can; however, have your pc control the attenuator or work the fader knob into the monitor installation. This will be my last post trying to convince you otherwise, since it's off topic, but I can help you design something that will look very stock, lose the head unit, free up your need for aux inputs and put the money toward a card that will get you 8 outs.

I agree; with durwood too, i honestly dont think you'll find any cards in your budget that will do what you want. you are in the pro-audio realm with your needs and those cards aren't cheap...nor usb for the most part. You could us kxproject and some sb cards but that'll only work with pci cards.... you have a big hurdle here

Ge0 · 02-02-2008, 11:42 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by durwood

ya he's on diyma.

Ge0 I hate to be the bringer of bad news, but $200 isn't going to do it, not for USB. There are not many USB cards out there, and even less that will have what you are looking for.

If you go to firewire, those options increase, but it's going to be hard to find something at that budget.

can you do PCIMA? How about a PCIMA firewire card to a firewire soundcard? The reason there are more firewire options is bandwidth. Firewire uses less resources than USB which is a resource hog when it comes to audio/video.

I noticed the M-Audio 1010LT's were going for $200 on ebay so figured this was a good estimate. I'll spend more if I need to. But, will probably look at the used market to keep cost down.

I'm certainly open to the Firewire option. I'm not married to USB.

Ge0