unable to play USB HDD 40 GB - Page 2

defgr · 03-05-2008, 05:02 AM

My friend...
30Gb are nearly 8500 files, of 3.5Mb. That is an enornus 428 hours of music with 3 minutes average time of songs... Where are you planning to travel to?!
I have seen your post. Excelent work!
But think of what we need here...
1. A head unit
2. An external storage device with a satisfactory capacity.
If you are planning to fill up your cockpit with cables, it's up to you.
Get a 3.5" HDD with external power, get an inverter, format the HDD as you mentioned at your post and there you are! You will have the capacity you prefer whether you are using IDE or SATA.
2.5" HDD powers from the head unit, direct. The output of the USB connector of the head units are designed to give enough power for a USB memory stick. That is merely 500mA.
Some 2.5"HDD cases do have separate power port. Like those which are media players too.
As I mentioned above, you will need this port for the kickstart current and your case MUST have power port.
I guess that what you need is the 3.5" HDD case and the inverter.

defgr

mvmps · 03-05-2008, 09:22 AM

You are correct, 30Gb is truly more than enough music I will listen to in one sitting... however, if I have all of my music on the HDD, I never have to swap songs, if I am in the mood for country, pop, rap, classic, rock, rnb, etc.... I rather just have everything there so there is no need for transferring files EXCEPT when I get more music...

Thank you for the comments on my post, but I only found the site, not my work

I agree, I much rather have the power coming from USB than have a power cord as well... no need for all the cables - agreed.

You mention an inverter? Why do I need an inverter?

Does IDE/SATA matter since I am using a USB HDD? Here are the ones I am looking at:

LaCie Little Disk 120GB Ext USB HDD $98
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...275-DT&cat=HDD

Seagate FreeAgent Go 120GB Ext USB HDD $98
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...-RK-DT&cat=HDD

WD Passport 160GB Ext USB Hard Drive $116
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...0TN-DT&cat=HDD

WD Passport 250GB Ext USB HDD $165
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...0TN-DT&cat=HDD

For 165, the 250 WD HDD is a good deal. All those HDDs are USB powered... so, would any of them work then?? I mean, they are 2.5 HDDs, so are they guaranteed to work (do they only require 500mA as well).

defgr · 03-05-2008, 08:39 PM

Dear friend,

OH yes! They will work! But they will not start! :-P
Try this link for max power consumption of 2.5" HDD
http://www23.tomshardware.com/storag...=414&chart=157

And this, For idle power consumption of 2.5" HDD
http://www23.tomshardware.com/storag...=414&chart=156
Back to school, P=V x I
where

P is the power in watts
V is the potential difference in volts
I is the current in amperes
In our case, V is given: 5V
Watts, too: according the chart from the above links.
So, the conversion of Watts to Amps is governed by the equation Amps = Watts/Volts
For example 12 watts/12 volts = 1 amp

Generaly, EVRY electronic circuit drains a lot of power at first start. Much more than their nominal max power consumption. A power, that even at their peak, will not reach.
To the disc power consumption, add the cases power needs...
According to SONY's CDX-GT414U (is the one that I have) manual, max USB current is 500mA
http://pdf.crse.com/manuals/2890967311.pdf (p. 17)
Note, that max current refers to the maximum the port can give you for some milliseconds.
So, with ease you can see why you need a kickstart current.

Check this, as sata case:
http://cgi.ebay.ie/OMATA-eSATA-SATA-...742.m153.l1262
Or this, for IDE:
http://cgi.ebay.ie/2-5-USB-EXTERNAL-...742.m153.l1262
Or this, media player HDD case, which gives you the battery case too:
http://cgi.ebay.ie/OTG-Portable-2-5-...QQcmdZViewItem
And setup your strategy.
All case links are random. I have nothing to do with the sellers.
Note that all of them do have external power in.
Best of luck!

These ready made portable HDD don't have power input.

Inverter, is the device that transforms the 12VDC of your car, to 220VAC (or 110VAC depending the country that you live) in order to use home appliances that need 220VAC (or 110VAC) in car.
3.5" external HDD enclosures use 220VAC (or 110VAC) switch power supplies.

Now, about the diference between IDE and SATA... I think that is a matter of power consumption. Notice at the charts that ATA (not all of them) are at the low end and SATA at the other. More bitrate and spin RPM consumes more power, I guess...

I hope that I answered all of your questions... :-)

defgr

mvmps · 03-06-2008, 06:55 AM

Wow.. I'm confused. I understand your post and what you say, but do you also mean I cannot use one of the HDDs I listed in the previous post? They are all ready to go (prob even FAT32 formatted, but I would double check that)...

So, my question basically is, can I use any of the following? (All USB powered, so I would just plug the USB into the AV Nav system.)

LaCie Little Disk 120GB Ext USB HDD $98
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...275-DT&cat=HDD

Seagate FreeAgent Go 120GB Ext USB HDD $98
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...-RK-DT&cat=HDD

WD Passport 160GB Ext USB Hard Drive $116
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...0TN-DT&cat=HDD

WD Passport 250GB Ext USB HDD $165
http://www.geeks.com/details.asp?inv...0TN-DT&cat=HDD

You say "these ready made portable HDDs don't have power input". Are you referring to my list above? And I thought that did not matter, as they functioned just like a USB flash drive???

Michael

defgr · 03-06-2008, 08:48 PM

Seagate and WD are NTFS formated and have some software embeded as their own console.

Try the WD Passport.
Mine work just fine.

hithere · 03-07-2008, 08:52 PM

With regard to powering low-current DC equipment with AC inverters...wouldn't it be easier just to jumper the +5V power leads to the drive to the output of a 12V-5V DC-DC converter? I mean, it'd be hella lot more efficient, less expensive, and could be wired directly to a +12 volt source...tiny, $10 adapter from radio shack vs. much more expensive, larger, noisier, and less efficient 120V AC inverter...that seems like a no-brainer to me.

AC inverters in the car are generally a bad idea, unless you happen to be powering an AC motor of some kind. By rule of thumb, assume they consume 30 watts just being on, then assume they waste a watt for every watt they produce, then factor in the wasted power it takes to convert to DC again. The only thing they really bring to the table is a compatible AC outlet for products designed for home use.

defgr · 03-07-2008, 11:02 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hithere

With regard to powering low-current DC equipment with AC inverters...wouldn't it be easier just to jumper the +5V power leads to the drive to the output of a 12V-5V DC-DC converter?

Good point hithere.

But... how many know how to do that???
How many will hack the power cord?

Quote: Originally Posted by hithere

I mean, it'd be hella lot more efficient, less expensive, and could be wired directly to a +12 volt source...tiny, $10 adapter from radio shack vs. much more expensive, larger, noisier, and less efficient 120V AC inverter...

I could not agree more...
But I was trying to lead "mvmps" to a DIY solution with separate HDD and case, and he keept asking me about ready made solutions like Seagate FreeAgent Go and WD Passport. So I assume that he does not have the knowledge to do somethinh so advanced like this that you propose.

Quote: Originally Posted by hithere

AC inverters in the car are generally a bad idea, unless you happen to be powering an AC motor of some kind. By rule of thumb, assume they consume 30 watts just being on, then assume they waste a watt for every watt they produce, then factor in the wasted power it takes to convert to DC again.

Sure does!

Quote: Originally Posted by hithere

The only thing they really bring to the table is a compatible AC outlet for products designed for home use.

Correct!
But Ready made 3.5" HDD comes with this philosophy... Home use.

In every case, we are talking about a car's cockpit... Not our workbench.
Safety MUST come first and all this cablemess does not guarantee that.

defgr

hithere · 03-08-2008, 03:45 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by defgr

Good point hithere.

But... how many know how to do that???
How many will hack the power cord?

...In every case, we are talking about a car's cockpit... Not our workbench.
Safety MUST come first and all this cablemess does not guarantee that.

defgr

Well, this IS a forum for people putting PC's in their car, so I sometimes expect the level of knowledge to be a little higher, especially in this regard...and safety being an issue, how's this inverter going to be wired? To a cigarette adapter plug? Most of these circuits are rated around 40-90 Watts, right? Not hard to pull that once one factors in the inefficiencies.

defgr · 03-08-2008, 09:55 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by hithere

Well, this IS a forum for people putting PC's in their car...

Hacking a wire or a circuit has nothing to do with puting things together by connecting plugs or sloting in a memory...
I suppose that you know how to use a soldering iron and you know what you are doing.
This is an inverter:
http://cgi.ebay.ie/75W-CAR-POWER-INV...QQcmdZViewItem
I think that it is safe...

Any way.
Since the topic is not about inverters, and as I said before I agree with you that using an inverter is crap, I'll stop here.

defgr

xprom · 03-21-2008, 11:00 AM

I found this and I ask me if this could help with my car stereo?

http://www.aerocool.com.tw/periphera...b/powerusb.htm

can I connect this 5V cable to my car?

thanks

m.s.

defgr · 03-21-2008, 11:37 PM

This cable goes here:
http://www.aerocool.com.tw/periphera...powerpanel.htm
It supposed that it gives you 5V through usb plug and 12V through the universal adaptor.
The other end is tailor made. Is made to match their panel outlet.
If you can work it out, ok. But I don't think that you could plug it in any usb... It won't fit.