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Old 04-08-2008, 06:48 AM   #16
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You might want to look for a car audio forum dedicated to just audio. This whole website is about car computers and this small section is about integrating the car PC with the audio part. Sticky right at the top of the page of this very subforum:

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/car-...questions.html

IMO, the amount of power you have does not necessitate the use of a cap, and the extra batteries are good if you plan on jamming with car off but will put more strain on your alternator while the car is running. I've got over 2000Wrms divided up across my entire setup and I don't use caps or extra batteries.

Last edited by durwood : 04-08-2008 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:25 PM   #17
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Quote: Originally Posted by halfzack View Post
and even with a low voltage, the wire is so big out of the digital out (not the normal headphone jack, i am talking about the port out of the bottom of the ipod.) it would carry most electronic signals without much distortion at all. i am sure from reading else were in this forum, you still have to wire your pc to your deck in some way to get sound out of it. so whether you use an ipod or a pc the level of signal alteration is about the same.

Not at all true. The actual rail to rail voltage of the audio processing chips in an ipod, is so small, that the normal human hearing spectrum is cut almost in half. So I am not talking about all frequencies, just from 20hz-20khz. They only go from around 100Hz to 10khz before the bandgap starts to degrade and there is noticeable distortion.

Also the first few generations were bad, and the newest ones are worse with the best being around 5th gen for input response settliing. Send in a very small "blip" to the audio circuit, you should get a very small blip but bigger out ideally, and realistically you should get a sinusoidal hump that is very close to flat everywhere but the blip and then a sharp rise and a quick fall. Yeah that doesnt exist in the ipods. They take forever to settle, bouncing all around. And that is 1 blip. Now put in music which is millions of different blips and all you want is for it to become larger to play through speakers/headphones, but instead it is made larger, and there is random interferance adding or taking away parts of the wave that gets worse.

And sorry to burst your bubble, but the headphone jack and the lineout jack are powered by the same circuit! Only difference is the output impedance they shove in there to drive different devices, and the output from both ports are pretty much equal.

Now you dont have to wire a PC to a deck, you can go straight to a real amp. But the quality of sound is much much much much better even with onboard crappy chips like the AC'97. Reason? They have more headroom. Take a 5v supply, and you can swing your little audio signal anywhere you want without reason and no worries about wasting power because it is either plugged in, or in a device where the battery will last a long long time and is replaceable when it fails. Now put a device like the x-fi in the PC, and it is even better by a mile.

So to sum up... ipod = crappy output nomatter the port
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Old 04-08-2008, 01:47 PM   #18
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:14 PM   #19
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well my bad. if you just go to mp3car.com, not the forums. there it is. but if you search anything on google about audio it seems to bring up this site allot. thats were i discovered the site. so i never, till now, went to there home page. sorry for that. but still if you do know anything about my problem would you lend a hand?

by the way, wile you are using the digital out on the ipod it is being charged. thus boosting the ipods crap battery, with the one in your car.
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:24 PM   #20
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2k1 that dose prove a point very well. i really had no idea. sorry
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Old 04-08-2008, 06:37 PM   #21
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Durwood, as for needing a cap. i tried it without and my car with the first boom turns off. i tried it with a 1f and it didnt do either. then i went to a 10f and my car drove fine. i put the second battery in and the boom was greater, but at night not even driving with my brights on, my low beams dim every beat. so that is why the new dry cell 1000 crank battery and 20f cap.

i am pushing almost double what you are, and driving only a compact car. there are no alternator upgrades. i already looked for that. the car is way to new and the manufacturer wants to let the next model come out to start making any after market parts. it is so hard to get parts they dont even have a dash conversion kit to install my deck. i had to make one.
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Old 04-08-2008, 07:48 PM   #22
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Quote: Originally Posted by halfzack View Post
by the way, wile you are using the digital out on the ipod it is being charged. thus boosting the ipods crap battery, with the one in your car.

True it is charging the battery but the circuit still uses the same voltage which I believe is 1.8v internally for the audio chip. It is true that it now has more current it can pull from, but it doesnt. This would cause the iPod to melt because it would have to be designed for this high current situation which would mean either (a) a switching circuit which is expensive or (b) that it would only work when plugged in and that wouldnt go over so well with the mobile mp3 player!
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