halfzack

i have; two 750 rms subs, one 20 farad cap, two dry cell batteries(divided by an isolator), and two htc amps. one amp goes at 600 rms 4 ohms each channel by two channels to my two subs (not bridged at 4 ohms), the other amp is 75 rms 4 ohms by four channels that go to my 100 rms component speakers. what would be the proper way to wire all of this together needing the cap to go to both amps and the batteries to remain isolated?"
would it go something like this?

power supply

using 0 gauge wire; car battery + to isolator, isolator to the second batteries +, ground second batteries - to the car, from second battery to big fuse (with a handle of the load of both amps.) to the cap +, ground the - of the cap to the car, + of the cap to a power distribution block, one 0 gauge down to 2 4 gauge wires, one wire (4 gauge) to a fuse (big enough for the first amp) to the first amp, the other wire to another fuse for and to the second amp. (matching the fuse to the recommended size for the second amp the second amp.), run the remote wire to both amps.

speakers

now the first amp, say it powers the subs (750 rms). run the rca cables to it, ground it, run the speaker wires to the subs however you want to. as for the second amp, it powers your components. run the remote, ground it, NO RCAs to this one instead run all speaker outs on the head to it, take all channels from amp out to the cross overs, cross overs to components.

halfzack

that was a question. i want to know other opinions about the equipment i have, so please, i need help. would that be a correct way to wire my car audio? i thought this was a high end audio forum not a bunch of numb skulls.

sedtc

let me be the first to inform you, this thread is posted in the wrong section. this is a general car audio question and would probably get a better response if posted there. please bare in mind that this forum is about car audio with respect to car computers. you may also want to reconsider insulting the very cabal you are trying to reach. with the level of your questioning, you don't appear to be in any position to suggest that this forum is "a bunch of numb skulls."

now on to your question: your wiring seems okay for the amps but you should use a fused power distribution block in between your cap and your amps and you should use a distribution block for your amps' grounds as well. i don't suggest wiring the subs "however you want to," you should be considering impedance loads and without knowing more detail about the equipment you are using, you will only get general information in that regard.

I also have concerns about using the speaker level inputs on your amp instead of RCA interconnects. you will be injecting unneccessary distortion into your system by using the speaker level inputs. a 20 farad capacitor seems a bit exorbitant to me, but (thankfully) it's your car and not mine.

halfzack

thanks for the information on the distribution blocks.

i am running two jl w7 subs. they have a rms at 750 and a peak of 1500, both single voice coil, 2ohm competition subs. an audiobahn2300 htc amp with an rms at 2ohm of 600 wats per channel, so a simple wiring will do me fine to match the two pieces together.

i always thought on a high pass amp you needed to amplify the speakers signal from the deck to your amp then out to all of your car speakers. thats why if you look at one there are 8 speaker wire tabs in and 8 out. i am running an audiobahn 4 channel htc amp, witch pushes 75 wats rms per channel and 4 2 way component jl zr speakers with an rms at 100 wats handling.

my head unit is a kenwood x991.

my cap is a kole audio 20 farad. the reason for this is, i can't replace my alternator in my car. they don't make a replacement (yet) for such a new car. i also know from experience that a ten farad still dimmed my lights. so to push what i have, i thought it would be a good idea to upgrade.

as well could you tell me were to go to get more info on the matter? i am well read on it. i just want to make sure so i don't kill all i have. maybe point me to a new forum. i am very new to this.

halfzack

let me be the first to apologize to all you numb skulls, j/k.
thanks.

halfzack

i have; two 750 rms subs, one 20 farad cap, two dry cell batteries(divided by an isolator), and two htc amps. one amp goes at 600 rms 2 ohms each channel by two channels to my two subs (not bridged at 2 ohms), the other amp is 75 rms 4 ohms by four channels that go to my 100 rms component speakers. what would be the proper way to wire all of this together needing the cap to go to both amps and the batteries to remain isolated?"

would it go something like this?

power supply

using 0 gauge wire; car battery + to isolator, isolator to the second batteries +, ground second batteries - to the car, from second battery to the cap + (fully charged by a resistor before you connect it straight to the battery. leave disconnected from the battery till you have wired your whole system.), ground the - of the cap to the car, + of the cap to a big fused power distribution block (with a handle of the load of both amps.), one 0 gauge down to 2 4 gauge wires, one wire (4 gauge) to a fuse (big enough for the first amp) to the first amp, the other wire to another fuse for and to the second amp. (matching the fuse to the recommended size for the second amp the second amp.), run the remote wire to both amps. run all grounds to a power distribution block and ground to the car securely. file all the paint away from the metal below all grounds on the car. reconnect cap to battery.

speakers

now the first amp, say it powers the subs (750 rms). run the rca cables to it, ground it, run the speaker wires to the subs however you want to. as for the second amp, it powers your components. run the remote, ground it, NO RCAs to this one instead run all speaker outs on the head to it, take all channels from amp out to the cross overs, cross overs to components.

as well could you tell me were to go to get more info on the matter? i am well read on it. i just want to make sure so i don't kill all i have. maybe point me to a new forum. i am very new to this.

Caelric

Go find yourself a car audio forum, not a car computer forum that has a sub forum that specifically deals with car audio as it relates to car computers.

And again, if you would like to get help, I recommend not insulting the possible helpers.

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DarquePervert

I merged the OP's threads since they are identical...
Please make an effort to post in the appropriate forum fron now on.

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halfzack

by the way sedtc, and all the rest of you. exsuse me for this but,

"High End Solutions
This forum is reserved for those users who are looking for the best sound possible. These users have different needs, wants, and desires from the rest of the users on this forum in regards to audio."

this is the entrance title to this forum. if you read it, my questions were in the right place. dont call it a high end audio forum if it is for only p.c.'s. even if audio is all you want from you car pc. my question is why not just buy a nice deck that interfaces with your ipod like my kenwood? i control my ipod right through my deck never needing to touch my ipod at all. unless you guys have huge E penises the 160 gig would do most just fine.

halfzack

now, as for why i chose to go here should be taken as a compliment. i went here because all of you seem to be used to dealing with complex wiring, figuring out what wire goes were and dose what. so i assumed though maybe mis judged from reading your posts that this would be a good place to get the information i need.

XC-C30

This Is a car-pc forum. So it is high-end along that side of the track. Also, the high-end section is a sub-section to a subforum of this COMPUTER-BASED forum. But to answer your question anyway...... Different people, different needs. With a pc you got way more options than with a deck of any kind. Besides that..... iPods (or whichever mp3-player you pick) and high-end is 2 things that don't go along

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2k1Toaster

Also you wont be getting good sound out of your ipod. The chips inside run off of such a low voltage to get the most out of that cruddy battery that the headroom is no where near the full human hearing spectrum. No matter how good your components are, your sound is only as good as the weakest link which is the iPod.

But back to the point, this is a CarPC forum.

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halfzack

but, is that not the point of a mp3. that is why they are so small in size. the conversion to mp3 from your original disc or recording takes out all sound frequencies that humans cant hear. unless you have the ears of a dog, you would never know the difference.

and back to my point. were dose it state it is a car pc forum? it dose not. it simply states high quality audio.

halfzack

and even with a low voltage, the wire is so big out of the digital out (not the normal headphone jack, i am talking about the port out of the bottom of the ipod.) it would carry most electronic signals without much distortion at all. i am sure from reading else were in this forum, you still have to wire your pc to your deck in some way to get sound out of it. so whether you use an ipod or a pc the level of signal alteration is about the same.

Rob Withey

http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/misc.php?do=cfrules

Right at the top:

I. Purpose or Mission Statement
A. MP3Car.com Website
Mp3car.com is the parent site of all the mp3car sites. The main page has rotating news and information about the vehicle computing world.
B. MP3car.com Store
The mp3car.com store is where you can purchase hardware and software for your vehicle computer.
C. MP3Car.com Forums
The mp3car.com forums are for discussion of various topics related to vehicle computing.
D. MP3car.com Wiki
The mp3car.com wiki is an educational document meant to aid new members of the vehicle computing hobby. It is a public document, and all members are encouraged to add and edit the wiki with new and updated information.
E. StreetDeck website
Streetdeck is a front-end software designed for in-car use by the mp3car.com team. Streetdeck.com is where you can find news and information about the software.

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