The MP3car.com Store  

Welcome to the MP3Car.com forums.

You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. Registering will also remove advertisements. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.

Go Back   MP3Car.com > Mp3Car Technical > Car Audio

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 05-06-2008, 01:12 PM   #1
Low Bitrate
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Vehicle: 2005 Acura RSX-S
Posts: 89
My Photos: (10)
Question Fuse size by battery

I currently have my carputer up and running, but i am debatiing my power cable size and fuse sizes for my main power next to the battery.

I have done some reading and testing and just want to make sure everything is correct.

Here is the wattage for my system which is just a ballpark:

ATX Motherboard - 25W
Keyboard + Mouse - includedW
CPU Fan - includedW
AMD Athlon 64 3400+ - 68W
sata Hard Drive - 25W
1.5GB DDR RAM (3 Sticks) - 30W
External DVD Rom (slim usb)- 5W
Lilliput Monitor - <10W
GPS Receiver - 5W
7-Port Powered Hub - 17.5w
AMP = 300w

watts = 485.5w
amps=watts/volts= 485.5/13.6=35.6 AMPS

So, right now i have my main power wire from the battery as 8awg and using a 60a fuse. The power wire then runs into my fused pwr distro block which i have 20a fuse for my dsatx and 50a fuse for my amp(on my amp is has 2 25a fuses, so just added them up and put 50a in the distro block, same thing with my dsatx, its has a 20a on the hardware) then both those power wires run to the device again using 8awg wire.

Since the max currect for 8awg wire is 50a, the power wire running for my dsatx and amp should be fine. since they are under the max current.

My question is my main power by my battery. I am currently running a 60a fuse on 8awg wire. Now the fuse is not blowing becasue i am not exceeding the amperage on that power line since from my calculation above the computer is only drawing 35.6amp roughly.

I was originally going to goto 4awg wire and put a 80a fuse by my battery becasue i though the fuse by the battery had to be the same current as all my devices. Since i have a 20a and 50a fuse in my distro block i though i had to add them up and us at least that. So i was going to put in a 80a fuse by my battery and use 4awg wire.

I dont think i need to do that as the fuse is rated according to the size wire.

Since i calculated the amperage for my system at roughly 37amps i was thinking just to keep my 8awg main power wire and put in a 50a fuse by my battery since i will never hit 60amps i think

As i think it would be more safe this way then jsut putting a large fuse that will never blow.

Am i on the right track? Just want to make sure i have my power wires and fuses correct.
TeamRSX is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 05-06-2008, 03:46 PM   #2
Super Moderator
DarquePervert's CarPC Specs
 
DarquePervert's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: In The Sticks near The 'Ham
Vehicle: 2003 Toyota Tacoma X-Cab
Posts: 11,439
My Photos: (26)
Yeah, you're on the right track.

Understand that the fuses are to protect the wire from too much current. If too much current flows down the wire, the insulation could melt and cause a short and possibly a fire and all sorts of nastiness.

You've already figured out that the fuse at the battery should be between the max rating of the cable and the total power draw of all devices on the cable.

I'd think your 60A fuse should be fine, even with the thicker wire at the battery. If the fuse blows, replace it with an 80A fuse. I doubt it will be an issue, though.
I use a 4AWG with a 100A fuse at the battery for the PC, a small inverter and two amps.
Works like a charm and I don't fear a fire from a short-circuit.
__________________
SEARCH: It's how information gets found!
How To Ask Questions The Smart Way

[|||||||--] - 80% (I estimate completion in Spring '07)
My Worklog
DarquePervert is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2008, 07:39 AM   #3
Low Bitrate
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Ottawa, Ontario
Vehicle: 2005 Acura RSX-S
Posts: 89
My Photos: (10)
Quote: Originally Posted by DarquePervert View Post
Yeah, you're on the right track.

Understand that the fuses are to protect the wire from too much current. If too much current flows down the wire, the insulation could melt and cause a short and possibly a fire and all sorts of nastiness.

You've already figured out that the fuse at the battery should be between the max rating of the cable and the total power draw of all devices on the cable.

I'd think your 60A fuse should be fine, even with the thicker wire at the battery. If the fuse blows, replace it with an 80A fuse. I doubt it will be an issue, though.
I use a 4AWG with a 100A fuse at the battery for the PC, a small inverter and two amps.
Works like a charm and I don't fear a fire from a short-circuit.

Ya, i think i will be ok with a 60a fuse. I would probably be ok with a 50a fuse, but i am eventually going to be putting in a mono amplifier for my subwoofer. Once i go that direction i will be using around 46a instead of 36a and my mono amplifier doesn't have as much watts as the amp in the car right now.

So, i think i would be ok with using 8awg wire and a 50a fuse, but just to be on the safe side i will upgrade to 4awg and stick with my 60a fuse as you mentioned if i for some reason blow that than i can upgrade the fuse.

I just dont like the idea right now that i have a fuse that is overrated for the wire (8awg 50a max and i'm running 60a). Even though the amount of amps will never exceed 50a according to my calculations its better to be safe. But in case i get more amps for some reason i want to be protected
TeamRSX is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-07-2008, 09:28 AM   #4
drk
Newbie
 
drk's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: College Station, TX
Vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado
Posts: 20
My Photos: (0)
Quote: Originally Posted by TeamRSX View Post
Ya, i think i will be ok with a 60a fuse. I would probably be ok with a 50a fuse, but i am eventually going to be putting in a mono amplifier for my subwoofer. Once i go that direction i will be using around 46a instead of 36a and my mono amplifier doesn't have as much watts as the amp in the car right now.

So, i think i would be ok with using 8awg wire and a 50a fuse, but just to be on the safe side i will upgrade to 4awg and stick with my 60a fuse as you mentioned if i for some reason blow that than i can upgrade the fuse.

I just dont like the idea right now that i have a fuse that is overrated for the wire (8awg 50a max and i'm running 60a). Even though the amount of amps will never exceed 50a according to my calculations its better to be safe. But in case i get more amps for some reason i want to be protected

I would recommend upgrading that 8awg to at least 4awg when you add on that mono amplifier, just to make sure your equipment is getting the power it needs.

Personally, I'd upgrade now, but that's just me. I absolutely refuse to run anything less than 4awg and prefer 1/0. Right now I'm running 2 4 gauge lines to just 2 amps. For my next install, I'll probably be doing 1/0 with a distribution block at the amp/PC rack. Overkill never hurts, especially when you tend to change/upgrade equipment as often as I do

EDIT: And you should NEVER fuse above the max rating of the wire! According to your calculations, your equipment will never exceed 50A, but the fuse is not for the equipment draw, it's for if your equipment shorts out and you start drawing alot of current through the wire, melting the insulation, and starting your car on fire. Change that fuse to the max rating of the wire. You're probably safe now, but what if you get a small problem and starting drawing 58A?
__________________
New Vehicle This Fall - 2009 Hummer H3T Alpha (yes the truck).

Planned Install:
Second Skin sound dampening
CarPC
10.4" Boe Hydis in dash
3-way Hybrid Audio Legatia front stage
Morel Elate SW 10" subs
Motorized Amp/PC rack

Last edited by drk : 05-07-2008 at 09:32 AM.
drk is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Reply


Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

vB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Scared…Very scared newbie(about Minis, Amps, Sound Quality and Power consumption)! Redding Newbie 19 02-19-2007 09:25 AM
Do I Need To Beef Up My Alternator Or Anything Else chitown_16 Car Audio 23 06-19-2006 06:39 AM
Car Battery, Fuse and Multimeter Question timwiththebo Newbie 2 12-19-2004 08:26 PM
MPJA - MECI ASTEC DC-DC Converter Luc General Hardware Discussion 39 11-22-2004 09:31 PM


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:00 PM.


Sponsored Links
The MP3car.com Store

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.6.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.1.0
Copyright © 1999 - 2008 Mp3Car.com Inc.
Ad Management by RedTyger
Message Board Statistics