click the '97 seville link... what you should do is use a battery isolator
the under-the-hood battery does nothing BUT power teh functions of the car, while the 2nd battery in the trunk (or wherever) powers nothing but auxilary componets (pc, amps, sterio etc)
the altenator connects directly to the isolator, its the isolators duty to determine which battery needs a charge, cheap ones just use diodes to direct flow at a certain voltage, where as some of the more $$ ones will by default start the charge on battery 1 (the under the hood) and once that is maintained properly, will direct charge voltage to the 2nd battery. the isolator im using i purchased at napa for like 70 bucks plus a $15 install connector kit for the GM altinators,
anyway,
the whole purpose of using an isolator rather than just connecting 2 batteries together (which can be done and does improve power output by connecting the +'s together and the -'s together) BUT if one battery slowly fails (due to bad cells, unstable fluid etc) then it will drain the other battery and you will eventually have 2 completely worthless batteries.
One way to combat this is by using 6V batteries in series **= 12V** and double that.. which will give you the equivalent of 2 12v batteries, but far more amps BUT with the extra weight and added wiring and overall cost its not something you would want in a common vehicle
One tip, the 2nd battery should only be a ***" dual duty deep cycle"*** marine style battery for several reasons:
they take massive drain beatings
they hold a charge longer
low maintenance
and if relayed right, or for emergencies, you can start a vehicle using jumper cables or your own vehicle by wiring a solenoid into the ignition or a switch
GL adding a 2nd battery
Linear Mode
