For those who want true 5.1 Dolby Digital and DTS - Page 5

fonseca · 08-26-2005, 01:41 AM

I finally found detailed information for the ADD51t. It can upmix 2 channel stereo through the spdif input to virtual 5.1, and additionally, you can turn the center channel output off, which will mix center channel sound with the two front speakers.

LESLIEx317537 · 08-26-2005, 07:37 AM

I'll post a picture of my DTS decoder thats in my trunk next to my amps. Has Toslink, Coaxial and Analog inputs. Has crossovers and phantom center channel adjustment. It also has a remote volume control that I mounted nicely next to my fog light, intercooler switch.

Right now I am using the Toslink with the Sound Blaster NX2.

Before I had the Decoder, when I played my Dlink USB FM and put it into the Line-In on the NX2 it would only play out the front two channels. After getting the decoder, the line in now plays over all 4.1 channels. (I don't have a center)

I got it off eBay from some guy in Hong Kong. It was $360 shipped. I'll post pics later.

JPuma · 08-29-2005, 10:44 AM

A DIN connector is the type of connector found on old keyboards and CB radio mic's. Its not just the term used for of module car radios.

LESLIEx317537 · 08-29-2005, 10:50 AM

Uh, I think he was reffering to a Double DIN car stereo size unit of measurement. I could be wrong though.

What's this new underline thing for like words like CarPC ? Advertisements?

JPuma · 08-29-2005, 11:02 AM

This is was posted by corruption:

Quote:
Originally Posted by c0rrupti0n
I found this http://dmzweb4.europe.creative.com/S...,Sxi=0,Case=ob j(13779),Kb=creative_cli_us

Would I need to find an amplifier that supported a digital in DIN? Or so i need some sort of device to translate form Digital DIN to RCA?

Then by antimatter:
I am confused about your post. When you say Digital DIN what are you talking about. DIN is a size specifications for car stereo head units. I think it is roughly 2"x7" double DIN is 4"x7". Please be more specific with your hardware setup and details on your question

Cheers

I was just confirming what corruption wrote.

Yeah, those hyperlinks look like links to products on the site. Marketing at its finest.

LESLIEx317537 · 08-29-2005, 11:04 AM

O I thought you were reffering to this post.

Next time if the post is old and on page two, you should quote it so idoits like me can see where it came from.

Quote: Originally Posted by fonseca

Which ones are you looking at? If you want a full DIN, then you have a lot of [expensive] options. And if you don't want anything in your dash, there are options as well, some of them with a remote, or remote display.

I have been searching for the best unit for weeks now. The ADD51T seems to be the best deal at $165 shipped. Retail is ridiculous, and a lot of people stated they paid $300+ in reviews. I had planned on a DAC installed under the seat with a wired remote for volume (and map the master volume to wav for Winamp control, should work), but the Audiobahn seems a better choice with more control.

My main problem with the ADS is that it's bulky, and can't be fabricated into the dash for ease of use, and the remote won't work if I install it in a hidden location. Also, I doubt the RCA outputs are more than 2 volts, and since it's not designed for automotive use, it might introduce noise.

I have to admit that I've always held an extremely poor opinion of Audiobahn, but then again I used to hold a poor opinion of Hyundai, and look what I'm driving (almost ready for boost!). The ADD51T seems like the best choice for the money.

JPuma · 08-29-2005, 11:06 AM

Anyone reading this topic have a BMW with DSP amp. I have a BMW but without DSP but I would like to utilize my Audity 2 NX better. I am curious to know if anyone has this combination and if they like the results.

fonseca · 10-06-2005, 05:17 PM

Just an FYI. I purchased this coax-optical converter, same one other people in this thread are using:

Although the included AC adapter states that it puts out 6v DC @ 250mA, this is not true. Mine puts out a contant 9.3-9.4v, and powering the converter off the 5v rail definitely does not work, it doesn't turn on. I think I'm going to go the 7806 route for 6v, hopefully that's enough for it to actually work.

Anyone considering the ADD51T should be ready to buy a coax-optical converter, I had no luck gettig it to recognize coax input from both onboard and pci soundcards, although it worked fine connected to a home DVD player.

fonseca · 10-10-2005, 09:14 PM

Ugh, I'm sick of messing with this converter. They must have stuck whatever sticker they had lying around on the AC/DC adapter. It puts out 9.3v, not 6.

I built a converter as shown in the diagram below, and it works, but only for about 1 second. Although it works perfecly when the coaxial signal is coming from a home theatre component's output. I can only conclude that Via's signal is pathetically weak.

I'm going to replace the 7806 with a 7809. I don't think think the cap is the problem, that should be enough for such a small draw. But if that fails then I'll either try an LM317 and a variable resistor, or give up and get reamed by Radio Shack for their $31 DC adapter. If anyone sees a problem with my simple diagram, let me know. I don't think a cap is needed before the regulator.

Edit: And BTW, the 7806 gets very hot. You need a heatsink.

scfountain · 10-11-2005, 07:38 AM

Just throwing my 2 cents in...I'm in the process of installing a similar system as "antimatter" is. I'm using an Audiobahn ADD51T Digital to Analog converter or DSP as some people call it, connected to my car computer through an AViC Optical TOSlink audio cable (AViC uses glass fibers instead of the traditional plastic). The ADD51T will be hooked to an Alpine MRV-F545 4 Channel amp rated at 125Wx4 @ 14.4v. The ADD51T looks like a head unit and can be installed like one, but it is 1/2 din, so it's a bit smaller. I am installing it in the front of the car because it can be used to control the audio and it has a remote control. I chose to use the D/A convertor over other methods because the audio should be much cleaner. The ADD51T uses 9 volts through its preamp outputs, compared to most car radios use 3-5 volts. Oh and Alpine makes an amp specifically designed for car theater. It's an MRA-D55A, 5 channel amp. It has a built in D/A converter and has an optical input. It's a bit pricey though, MSRP around $800+. My amp and D/A converter will be hooked to my SDC so the entire car multimedia system will power up/down together.

Oh yea, for my car computer i'm using a pre-production (I got hooked up)
I-Base MB896F Pentium M motherboard. It has an optical SPDIF onboard. So it will connect directly to my ADD51T.

AViC Optical Audio Cable

Will Albers · 10-11-2005, 07:42 AM

but is the onboard spdif output of the same quality as the Audigy/Extigy?

Defiler · 10-11-2005, 07:46 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Will Albers

but is the onboard spdif output of the same quality as the Audigy/Extigy?

I hope you don't think this is a good thing...

Will Albers · 10-11-2005, 09:00 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Defiler

I hope you don't think this is a good thing...

Im confused, whats a good thing?

I have noticed the analog output of my onboard sound card is awful. It really seems to merge bass response into a certian range of frequencies making everything sound the same.

My question comes down to the SPDIF output. In a perfect world, the digital out would be unchanged and left to the outboard DSP. I question if this is infact true or if the digital signal output is different between the audigy/extigy and the onboard sound.

antimatter · 10-11-2005, 11:34 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by fonseca

Ugh, I'm sick of messing with this converter. They must have stuck whatever sticker they had lying around on the AC/DC adapter. It puts out 9.3v, not 6.

I built a converter as shown in the diagram below, and it works, but only for about 1 second. Although it works perfecly when the coaxial signal is coming from a home theatre component's output. I can only conclude that Via's signal is pathetically weak.

I'm going to replace the 7806 with a 7809. I don't think think the cap is the problem, that should be enough for such a small draw. But if that fails then I'll either try an LM317 and a variable resistor, or give up and get reamed by Radio Shack for their $31 DC adapter. If anyone sees a problem with my simple diagram, let me know. I don't think a cap is needed before the regulator.

Edit: And BTW, the 7806 gets very hot. You need a heatsink.

As strange as this may be i found the best way to power this converter was off the PSU 12v rail with a 12v-5v radioshack convertor stepping it down to 5v. There seems to be some weird floating ground or somthing.

Also i think vias SPDIF signal is weak as hell.

Personally i tried other convertors and never got anywhere with them. Your milage may vary.

fonseca · 10-11-2005, 03:52 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by scfountain

My amp and D/A converter will be hooked to my SDC so the entire car multimedia system will power up/down together.

Your setup is similar to mine. Although I'm not using a glass fiber optical cable since I needed a tight bending radius in several spots and didn't want to chance it.

My amp, ADD51T and SDC all get their turn on signal from the stock radio harness accessory wire. I have my alarm hooked to that, so I get run time of up to 10 minutes (or until a door is opened) when I first cut off the car, and I also use a latched accessory output channel to turn the entire system on and off for however long I want via remote, whether the car is running or not.

Quote: Originally Posted by Will Albers

My question comes down to the SPDIF output. In a perfect world, the digital out would be unchanged and left to the outboard DSP. I question if this is infact true or if the digital signal output is different between the audigy/extigy and the onboard sound.

I have tested this myself on my home theatre system, comparing the onboard SPDIF to that of an Audigy, with a 16 bit source. I can't say that the sound is 100% identical, unless my ears are lying to me, however I also can't say that one sounds significantly worse than the other, just that there are some differences in tone. In a perfect world, you wouldn't hear any differences between SPDIF cables either, but I know for a fact you can.

I am satisfied with the onboard SPDIF sound quality. IMO it's comparable to my Audigy, and not even close to the noisy onboard analog out. It provides better sound than the rest of my car system can take advantage of, so it's not the weak link.

Quote: Originally Posted by antimatter

There seems to be some weird floating ground or somthing.

Dernit. I may have to break down and buy one. If I open it up and see a 7805 in there I'm going to be irked, although that would mean I did something wrong wiring mine.

I'll be thrilled to finally have digital output. I hate having so many redundant equalizers and volume controls, even though some are linked. Windows, Vinyl Deck, Winamp and AC3 Filter just to name a few, and then there are apps and codecs with their own internal controls.