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06-28-2004, 05:14 PM
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#1
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Minnesota
Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
Posts: 99
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Turn-on amp POP Stoppers
After doing a  on how to eliminate two pops from my speakers when I turn my car on, I came across two products:
Stinger's http://www.sfxaudio.com/products/dis...p?ProdId=63361
and David Navone http://www.davidnavone.com/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=N-66A
Do you know any other solutions, what are you using?
I have one 4ch amp / 4 speakers. Do I need to get only one item or two (one for each RCA cable)?
Thanks
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06-28-2004, 05:31 PM
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#2
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Newbie
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Long Island NY
Vehicle: 2001 Ford Mustang GT
Posts: 19
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I have the david navone and it works quite well
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06-28-2004, 06:07 PM
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#3
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Vehicle: 2007 Honda Fit Sport
Posts: 852
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Gene i believe that you need one per device that causes the popping noise.
__________________
2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC
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06-28-2004, 06:54 PM
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#4
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: VA
Vehicle: 96 Volvo 850R
Posts: 192
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you only need one...it goes in between the remote wire going to your amp
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06-28-2004, 06:55 PM
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#5
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staffordshire - united kingdom
Vehicle: 2003 MINI Cooper S Schnitzer
Posts: 363
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errrm i just use a standard switching relay...
ignition wire goes through relay to the remote of amp, and is switched by the computers +12v.. that way it dosent power up till after the sound card has started, and powers down when the ignition does.
tom.
__________________
Location: Staffordshire - UK
Car: 2005 Mini Cooper Convertable
Status: startin from scratch. [|--------]
Hardware:
EPIA 1000M
Dlink USB radio
7" In dash touchscreen
Harmain GPS unit
RF remote
ODB2
....IBUS comin soon
Running: media engine
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06-28-2004, 08:32 PM
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#6
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Minnesota
Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
Posts: 99
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mutilator,
I don't know anything about relays, which one would you recomend: SPST or DPDT
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06-29-2004, 12:49 PM
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#7
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2002
Location: Staffordshire - united kingdom
Vehicle: 2003 MINI Cooper S Schnitzer
Posts: 363
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__________________
Location: Staffordshire - UK
Car: 2005 Mini Cooper Convertable
Status: startin from scratch. [|--------]
Hardware:
EPIA 1000M
Dlink USB radio
7" In dash touchscreen
Harmain GPS unit
RF remote
ODB2
....IBUS comin soon
Running: media engine
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06-29-2004, 01:00 PM
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#8
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Minnesota
Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
Posts: 99
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Thanks guys
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06-29-2004, 01:02 PM
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#9
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Vehicle: 2007 Honda Fit Sport
Posts: 852
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Gene you would only need a spst for your amp. How it works it, there is a coil inside and when a voltage goes through the coil, it creates an electromagnet which pulls a little switch inside of the relay. You would run the power from the carputer through the coil and the remote line hooks to the internal switch pins.
__________________
2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC
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06-29-2004, 04:11 PM
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#10
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Texas
Vehicle: 2002 Mazda Protege5
Posts: 187
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Some amps have a turn on delay that might be a good solution for some, but my system is personally run with the relay technique. Works great.
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06-29-2004, 04:57 PM
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#11
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Minnesota
Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
Posts: 99
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I'm going to try the relay first. Where does the remote wire go from the relay? Do I need to tap in into existing remote wire going to the amp from ACC? I must be doing something wrong, everything comes on that way but the two pops are still there. Am I way off on this one? Or, do I go from ACC to the relay and then to the amp (haven't tried this one yet) Here is my setup
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06-29-2004, 10:52 PM
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#12
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Vehicle: 2007 Honda Fit Sport
Posts: 852
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the acc line does not go to the amp anymore, you will use the 12V from the relay to trigger the amp.
__________________
2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC
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06-29-2004, 11:02 PM
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#13
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: Minnesota
Vehicle: 2001 Infiniti I30
Posts: 99
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OK, so the ACC that used to go to the amp now goes to the relay. Thanks
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06-29-2004, 11:06 PM
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#14
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Fairfax, VA
Vehicle: 2007 Honda Fit Sport
Posts: 852
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__________________
2007 Honda Fit Sport 1.5L SOHC-VTEC
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06-29-2004, 11:12 PM
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#15
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Top Ramen
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Spokane, WA, US
Vehicle: 1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo
Posts: 984
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You wouldn't need the ACC line going to the relay would you? Can't you just run +12V from the power supply right to the amp's ACC lead? Or does the time it takes the relay to switch make a difference?
__________________
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