Is 5.1 worth it?

cadence117 · 09-11-2004, 09:31 PM

just straight out, for the enviroment, cost, time, quality (considering mp3 format and such) results..

is 5.1 sound worth it?

Superduck · 09-11-2004, 09:48 PM

I suppose that's a difficult question for someone other than you to answer.

It's really up to the individual user, I guess. A lot of people have brought up the thought that if you want to watch 5.1 movies, do so at home, where you can really enjoy them.

I'd imagine that the majority of the time, the average person will just listen to MP3's, which typically don't do 5.1. I've got a couple of DVD's that have 5.1 encoded audio on them, but compared to the number of stereo MP3's, it's fairly small. I'd imagine for me, 5.1 would be a waste of time and money, though, to be honest, I'll probably do it anyway.

Try looking into what it takes to get 5.1 to sound good in your car, then determine if it's worth it to you.

Cheers,

Kris

frodobaggins · 09-11-2004, 11:17 PM

I would like 5.1, but I'm going to live with 4.1

Frodo

antimatter · 09-12-2004, 12:47 AM

Well I have to say that for me i didn't care if it was worth it or not. I just did it becasue i wanted it. The way that i went was a tad on the expensive side but you can do it for cheaper.

I bought the panasonic CYAC300 (which is made for the car)

Seth bought the creative 5.1 external module http://www.creative.com/products/pro...sp?prodid=9468

He says it works fine with his system... the only problem he mentioned was that it took 14v so he had to get a 12v-14v adapter (big whoop)

All in all it is more for the "cool" factor than actual use. If you maybe watch movies in your car 1 a month then stereo is fine

mp31023 · 09-12-2004, 01:50 AM

If you want to go with 5.1/DTS without and power problems try this http://m-audio.com/products/en_us/Transit-main-1.html. I am using it with the Panasonic CY-AC300ex and works perfectly. And it runs on USB 5v, no external power supply.

antimatter · 09-17-2004, 05:54 PM

Hey i might get that. I was using the spdif port from the via but i was having trouble finding a quality coax to optical convertor

mp31023 · 09-23-2004, 10:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by antimatter

Hey i might get that. I was using the spdif port from the via but i was having trouble finding a quality coax to optical convertor

Yeah I have the a coax to optical converter and the M-Transit and the audio from the Transit is much cleaner than the converter. I am using it with the CY-AC300ex. Actually I bought an extra CY-AC300ex from ebay for spare parts for $100 bucks. The seller sold it because it would not power up. So I thought, Hey I work for Panasonic, I can take it in and get repaired with a discount. But I plugged in the controller and the brain and worked like a charm. I was thinking it could be the cables. Plugged in all of the cables and it still worked fine. $100 a good deal.

JC-S60 · 09-23-2004, 11:10 AM

I've tested with a Creative Soundblaster Audigy 2 NX, which is a USB external 7.1 soundcard. Just tested 4 channels with a DVD and it really sounds great. I will put in a small amp to power the stock center speaker and a 400w amp for a sub to complete the system.

To power the Audigy, I'll use a 5v power supply, used for an ipaq (as it sucks 1,25a @ 5v)...

A nice feature (that I haven't tested though) is the possibility to upmix any stereo source to 5.1 (or 7.1 for that matter).

antimatter · 09-23-2004, 11:55 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by mp31023

Yeah I have the a coax to optical converter and the M-Transit and the audio from the Transit is much cleaner than the converter. I am using it with the CY-AC300ex. Actually I bought an extra CY-AC300ex from ebay for spare parts for $100 bucks. The seller sold it because it would not power up. So I thought, Hey I work for Panasonic, I can take it in and get repaired with a discount. But I plugged in the controller and the brain and worked like a charm. I was thinking it could be the cables. Plugged in all of the cables and it still worked fine. $100 a good deal.

Well i ordered that transit thingy and i am hoping that it will work becasue it was damn expensive. I also don't like the idea of running a seperate USB sound card (essentially that is what it is), I am hoping that this willl alleviate my issues. I also have the M-Audio C02 and have had nothing but trouble. YYMV and do note that i bought this used off of ebay but what i have noticed is that it has very wierd power arrangements, it says 9v but the AC power adapter puts out ~16v (WTHell??) anyways i can get it to run when I power it off of the PSU but when i crank up the volume the sound begins to crack (WThell??).

I also used the the cheap converter off of ebay. I bought it for like 20 bucks and it was pretty solid but the way that i had it powered (radio shack convertor) whenever i stepped on the brakes the sound would cut out for a milisecond. I think there are strange things going on with my electrical system that may attribute to this funnyness but i really hope this is the answer i have been looking for.

JC-S60 · 09-23-2004, 12:03 PM

on a sidenote, antimatter, put a small cap in front of any device that acts strangely to power fluctuations/noise. It helps a lot!

And does your power supply put out 16v when connected to the converter too? Those cheap supplies can drop very easely some volts under load.

Xtreme2k2 · 09-23-2004, 12:13 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by frodobaggins

I would like 5.1, but I'm going to live with 4.1

Frodo

likewise..

Well unless I add an amp for the center channel..

Anybody know a good amp/speaker for the center channel?

antimatter · 09-23-2004, 12:44 PM

Dolby Digital 5.1 Surround is lame without a center channel. Just think about this...all the vocals and speach get fowarded to the center channel. Without a center channel everythign is going to sound wierd.

I have my center channel mounted behind my screen. I just turned up the gain a little but. Sounds wonderful

Joe_Collectible · 09-23-2004, 01:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by antimatter

I also used the the cheap converter off of ebay. I bought it for like 20 bucks and it was pretty solid but the way that i had it powered (radio shack convertor) whenever i stepped on the brakes the sound would cut out for a milisecond. I think there are strange things going on with my electrical system that may attribute to this funnyness but i really hope this is the answer i have been looking for.

When you brake, motor rpm's drop to idling rpm's. Therefore, the alternator drops rpms = less charging. Ever notice a car's idle is different with ac on? Besides the mechanical stress due to compressor clutch, the AC uses between .5 - 1 volt (drawing ampere's away from 12v+ battery) - which in turn is not being adequately resupplied by the lack of production from an idling alternator. Assuming that an external amplifier is approx 40a (varying greatly depending on wattage and classification) and 140 watt power supply is ~15a, the vehicle's computer notices and tries to compensate by increasing idle speed. Assuming most vehicle's draw is approx 60a for basic electrical need, Running radio, carputer, amplifier, and AC draws around 100 amperes total. Give/take

Stock alt ratings are usually around 100a rated within a range of say 3200 rpms - 4200 ... That is not 100% accurate; however they are definately not rated for max output at say 600 rpm's.

Neways, the milisecond your describing is caused not by the radio shack connection; instead by this lack of ampere supply.

Before an alternator bearing goes out, many times you cannot hear it, but lose production of amperes due to the armature tilting at idling speeds. Even though the bearing allows the armature to tilt, the alternator appears to produce the proper ampere supply @ higher rpms due to centrifical force throwing the armature back onto its correct axis.

You can start solving this by hard wiring your inverter with some wire that is fused (in-line) Directly to the battery (600-700 cca) !!! tons of power to draw from

~make sure to use wire that will allow for the ampere's you need and that the inline fuse is a greater rating than the fuse your device uses to protect itself.

PM me and we can discuss it further if necessary - I had a similar problem that I am in the process of solving

~ we are truly crazy for what we love!

antimatter · 09-23-2004, 03:21 PM

I think the problem with my setup is more to do with the brake light coming on itself. Let me explain... If i sit in the car while it is idleing and have the digital input playing, when i step on the brake and the brake light lights up the sound cuts out for a milisecond. So what I am saying is that it does this even in idle, and is quite annoying.

I have the same problem with the M-Audio C02. It does this aswell and but on top of the "cutting out on brake press" at high volume it starts getting really bad (unlistenable)it starts cutting out so much that the music is playing for only milliseconds at a time.

Quote:

You can start solving this by hard wiring your inverter with some wire that is fused (in-line) Directly to the battery (600-700 cca) !!! tons of power to draw from ~make sure to use wire that will allow for the ampere's you need and that the inline fuse is a greater rating than the fuse your device uses to protect itself.

Now, when you say inverter... I am running an Opus. Which is wired to the battery with 8awg (amp wire), The fuse in line doesn't help out at all unless there is a short that would fry the wire or componants. Maybe you could elaborate more on what you are doing to resolve this problem, you could message me on aim.

Seth · 09-23-2004, 03:59 PM

Sorry I have to say that antimatter but your car is haunted...