therussman2002

my second stinger sp800 battery is dead as of recent

same crap as the first one, wont charge up past 10.7v or something to that effect

i have a zero gauge wire coming from my isolator under the hood to this battery, and off of it are 3 amps and 2 caps, nothing too complicated... the warranty process with stinger takes over a damn month

anyone have any insight or experience in car audio batts that crap out in a few months?

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RedGTiVR6

how much testing have you done? have you checked your alternator? to make sure that it's charging like it should?

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therussman2002

yes the alternator charges my hood battery just fine

i have an isolator that separates my two batteries, so that they are not charging off each other even when the car is running

i have to run a small wire with a diode from the hood battery to the alternator, for that sensing crap, so it knows how much to charge

i had this theory that if the front battery was charged, the alternator would know this, and stop charging, and therefore not fully charge the rear battery

but when i place this wire&diode between the trunk battery and the alternator, the alternator does not put out any voltage, as if there was no battery there



i first noticed the problem when my 3 amps were just cutting in and out constantly after a minute of going on the road, i checked my remote wire and some other things, and eventually checked the voltage of the trunk batt when the car was off: 10.7

mbuchman

Have you hooked up the battery to a charger to try to charge it back up? I personally agree with Red GTI in thinking its alternator issues. Either that, or a loose wire may cause it to lose the power.

Matt

therussman2002

nah havnt tried a charger yet

thing is it charges my front battery just fine... i measure the voltage of the whole system and its 14-15

if i had alternator problems then the car wouldnt be running as fine as it is, the many days since my amps started doing wierd things

mbuchman

I was just thinking that if the batteries are in parallel, that means that each one of them gets 14.4 volts from the alternator, but your radio may use up all of the alternator that is not used by your regular battery, leaving your second battery uncharged. Know that it is a little out there, and I dont feel like doing the math to figure out if that explanation is reasonable (because although voltage is the same, current is different, so I dont know if the difference in current would cause the main battery to be charged less or what, and really dont want to try to figure it out )

I would just try to charge it with a charger, and if the battery doesnt pick up, then at least you know it is a bad battery. Maybe a yellowtop would be good for you? Dont really know how they compare, but I just know yellowtops are used a lot.

Matt

RedGTiVR6

the stinger batteries are decent - but for the money I would go with a yellow or a red top any day....

I ran two SP1700s from stinger in my car back when I was competing in SPL (4 12s on a US2000 amplifier in a GTi) - the batteris were like bricks.....no matter what I threw at them they charged back up just fine - was able to run my system with the car off, at 3/4 volume for 4 hours, and still start the car without a second thought...

but.....from what I have heard about their batteries as of late....they aren't all that great....

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