Best way to connect 8 gauge wire to 12-16 gauge wire?

SwapMeet · 03-02-2005, 05:54 PM

Finally have all my car audio and power parts in (amp, sub, amp install kit). Back seats and paneling have been removed from my car. Have a remote audio video switcher, as well as an inverter and other goodies. Anyway, just a few quick questions:

I will have 4 gauge power cable from battery to to trunk distro block, at which point it will branch off into 3x8 gauge cables to feed an inverter and and amplifiers. These lead back to another ground distro block.

I need some smaller 12 volt power lines to power a Sirius tuner, the amplified video switchbox, and maybe a rear view camera. Whats' the best way to get 12-16 gauge cable from the above setup? It's kinda unwieldy to wire crimp the 8 gauge and 16 cables together. I'm thinking I could solder one end of the 12 gauge cable to one end of the 8 gauge cable and then put that entire assembly into the distro block connector.

Suggestions?

RedGTiVR6 · 03-02-2005, 06:04 PM

8 gauge is a little big but.....

you might be able to find something along these lines:

RedGTiVR6 · 03-02-2005, 06:11 PM

or this:

hd54321 · 03-02-2005, 11:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6

or this:

You're just showing off now...j/k - you're setup is tight.

SwapMeet · 03-02-2005, 11:56 PM

Cool, where do I get something like that?

xdjxklusivex · 03-03-2005, 01:17 AM

ghetto style - twist and electric tape

whatever you want to do man it will work just make sure its a nice tight seal especialy if its coming from ur battery.... why dont u wire the smaller stuff like camera to a fuse under ur dash or something its easier and u can choose if u want it to turn on when u turn the key or alwayz be on... have fun

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 06:40 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by hd54321

You're just showing off now...j/k - you're setup is tight.

lol - thanks

you can get stuff like that at any home depot, lowes, electrical supply store, etc

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 06:41 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by xdjxklusivex

ghetto style - twist and electric tape

whatever you want to do man it will work just make sure its a nice tight seal especialy if its coming from ur battery.... why dont u wire the smaller stuff like camera to a fuse under ur dash or something its easier and u can choose if u want it to turn on when u turn the key or alwayz be on... have fun

this is about the most unprofessional way you could do it. it's not secure, and it's far from pretty, not to mention unsafe...

but the fuse thing makes sense

lol

Nic · 03-03-2005, 07:33 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6

this is about the most unprofessional way you could do it. it's not secure, and it's far from pretty, not to mention unsafe...

but the fuse thing makes sense

lol

it may not be the best method but it works, it works especially well if you solder the wires then tape them up. i find connections where whe wires are only twisted and taped to hold up to abuse much better than any of the crimp style connectors commonly used

Scouse Monkey · 03-03-2005, 07:49 AM

Anyone used these things for splicing in?
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...CBA-560B&N=401
Could be ok for low power things

And red, i have to second that - you are such a show-off

But i am being jealous - wish i had the time, money and skills to make something that nice.

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 08:16 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Nic

it may not be the best method but it works, it works especially well if you solder the wires then tape them up. i find connections where whe wires are only twisted and taped to hold up to abuse much better than any of the crimp style connectors commonly used

you must not be crimping them right then, or something, because a correctly crimped joint will outlast a twist and tape any day.

And yes, a solder joint with tape over it would be a nice option, but not very user friendly when it comes to taking stuff out etc..

that's why we went with the strips in my car, to get the amp rack out we can just disconnect at that strip, disconnect the power, ground and remote leads at the other strip and dist. block, and unscrew the rcas....pull the entire amp rach out and not have to worry about running it all back through the tubes....because that was a PITA!

just giving him options that are user friendly

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 08:18 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Scouse Monkey

Anyone used these things for splicing in?
http://cpc.farnell.com/jsp/endecaSea...CBA-560B&N=401
Could be ok for low power things

And red, i have to second that - you are such a show-off

But i am being jealous - wish i had the time, money and skills to make something that nice.

how is it showing it off??

I guess I should have spent the time to find a picture of those online somewhere else hu?

btw - those t-taps are ok, just not for 8 gauge wire.....but you won't find any t-taps near my car (unless they are there from the factory) (btw - THAT comment MIGHT be considered showing off a little....lol)

SwapMeet · 03-03-2005, 10:50 AM

Hey Red, in the above picture, are your blue cables power or speaker wires? What exactly is that white plastic thing called? Does that go on to feed your smaller power wires on the left?

RedGTiVR6 · 03-03-2005, 10:56 AM

those are speaker. We did that for two reasons actually, for the reason mentioned above, but also so that if I needed to put a speaker out of phase we could do so easily back there....then again, the alpine processor will switch phase as well...

it's basically a terminal strip

the other one that I listed (second pic) is actually a terminal strip. Basically, we brought power, ground and ignition to it, jumped them over to 3-4 other terminals and can split them from there, can also easily disconnect everything and trouble shoot, and test at this point as well

VanMan69 · 03-03-2005, 11:11 AM

Semi-ghetto 8-to-12ga:
Crimp ring terminals onto the 8ga and the 12ga's, then use a small nut/bolt/washer to bolt all the rings together securely, and wrap the whole thing in tape or heatshrink.