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Old 03-03-2005, 01:51 PM   #1
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Tips for screwing into car body.

Before I start drilling holes into my car's trunk for attachment points for my sub and amp, as well as making a nice hole for my battery cable in my firewall, just wanted to get some tips from you guys.

-Is there a better way besides trial and error to determine which drill bit to match with a certain type of screw? I have screws labeled #8, which drill bit does that correspond to?
-I've got some metal screws from Home Depot, will these work?
-What's the deal with self-tapping screws? I hear about them all the time on car audio sites. Where do I find them and how do I use them?
-Any other tips that will help me not drill through a fuel line.
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Old 03-03-2005, 01:58 PM   #2
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I have got one: do not drill through cables conecting your airbags.
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Old 03-03-2005, 02:03 PM   #3
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Try here it's basically a drill and tap guide. Same rules apply for screws. Look at the guide and a #8 tap would use a #29 drill for the hole......
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Old 03-03-2005, 02:05 PM   #4
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oh and use COMMON SENSE and check behind what you are drilling in to!!!!
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Old 03-03-2005, 02:08 PM   #5
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Oh yeah, you better watchout for that time bomb (fuel tank).
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Old 03-03-2005, 04:35 PM   #6
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i agree with dudes99 and matrix pc lol commen sence is a good thing :-D ive seen guys tape over the location they drill through so it will be smooth... i do it it works good :-D... just watch out for flying metal going into ur eyes... happend to my friend drilling through a screw head on our dj rack his eye was bleeding not a pritty sight :-P
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:36 PM   #7
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wear goggles and drill pilot holes with good bits.
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Old 03-03-2005, 08:45 PM   #8
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Any hole you drill in your car, I suggest you apply some waxoil to the hole.
Helps prevent rust.
If you are drilling a hole greater than say 8mm always drill pilot holes,
if you are wanting a nice 13mm hole i would drill a 5mm then 8-9mm then the 13mm. this will make a nice round hole.

Last edited by GRUNT; 03-03-2005 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 03-03-2005, 11:46 PM   #9
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Tapping? Anybody have any experience with tapping and threading? I'm going to need it to attach my amplifier to my trunk floor.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:02 AM   #10
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Quote: Originally Posted by SwapMeet
Tapping? Anybody have any experience with tapping and threading? I'm going to need it to attach my amplifier to my trunk floor.

Use a Bolt and locking nut?
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:14 AM   #11
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Quote: Originally Posted by WebDog
Use a Bolt and locking nut?

Hehe, that would require me to get underneath my car. =) Always an option.
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Old 03-04-2005, 01:17 AM   #12
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yea, i would drill the holes put bolt / nuts on them spot weld the nut under the car so you dont have to go under to do future work. depending on where your gas tank is lol
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:51 AM   #13
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well to drill and tap the hole you obviously need the right sized drill for the tap (smaller than the screw diamter), a tap and a tap wrench!

You also need some cutting lubricant and take your time.

You should easily find a guide for the correct size drill for your tap form where you get the tap from. I ogt a cheap tap and die set for £4 the other day from tool station as i needed to clean the thread in my brake hub before putting new disks on.

I have done a few threads in my time so here is what i do:

1. drill suitable hole using correct undersized drill - eg. for M3 you us a 2.5mm drill
if you need to do a large hole you need to build up with smaller pilots first - as our scotish friend suggested earlier

2. use the more tapered tap (point at the end) in a tap wrench with small bit of lube and place it int he hole and start to turn applying a fair amount of pressure. YOu have to be vary careful that you are going straight - so check the angle from all directions. Turn the tap a little bit at a time and check the angles. If it is out a bit then back it off and try again - pushing down a little bit harder to cut a new path.

3. When you have got the tread nicely started progress slowly, still applying downward pressure and every turn or so back the tap off a quarter or half turn to break off the swarf and kleen the threads

4. When you have reached the botton of a blind hole ot are in the nice full width part of the tap with in an open hole then care fully unscrew the tap and remove it - taps are VERY brittle as they are hardended to be harder than the metal you are cutting so be careful.

5. You normally get a blunt nosed tap in the pack, thsi is manily used for tapping to the botton of blind holes and you jsut simply use this next but be preapred to start cutting new thread when you reach the bottom where the other tap could not get too. Also be careful not to cut a new thread and cross thread the hole.

I normally put this second tap, when i have one, through open holes as well to ensure the thread is cut correctly and is not too tight.

If the body is too thin to tap correctly you might want to look for some expanding inserts you can just put in the hole from your side and screw into. You can bonf these in with araldide to make them secure.

Also don't forget to use the waxoil as mentioned and i am afraid you are gonna have to get underneath to was the exit of the holes as thss is where the rust will attack from.
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:54 AM   #14
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dudes99
Try here it's basically a drill and tap guide. Same rules apply for screws. Look at the guide and a #8 tap would use a #29 drill for the hole......

hmm....

plus what scouse said...............
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Old 03-04-2005, 06:58 AM   #15
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Quote: Originally Posted by Dudes99
oh and use COMMON SENSE and check behind what you are drilling in to!!!!


the trouble with common sense is, it's not all that common.
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