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06-24-2005, 06:21 PM
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#1
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BE
Posts: 129
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Amp in Glovebox, heatissues.
Everything is coming together, the only thing that's not working properly is the sound. I'm using an FM transmitter for the moment butI wanna switch to an AMP. So far all pretty straightforward.
Now the thing is, I can acess all the necessary cables from my glovebox. So if I could I'd like to install the amp in my glovebox. I don't really need a big amp, just something to power my boxes just like my HU would do is enough. The thing I'm worrie about is heat. So far I've got my HU anda USB hub in there. I think it's gonna get hot in there with an amp.
Can I do something about that? Or wouldn't it be dangerous?
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06-25-2005, 08:26 PM
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#2
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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One question, do you want it done cheap and quick or do you want it done right. if you're trying to amp sub boxes a small amp that fits in a glove box wont do. I got a small 2 ch amp that drives 80 watts that would barely fit in the glove box but all it drives is my center channel. plus you may get some line interferrance because it may be too close to the stock electronics in the car esp the ventilation fan and ac on top of the other equiptment you have stocked up in there.
One place i would suggest depending on other variables is mounting the amp underneith the passenger seat. Just no glove box to much heat and interferrance
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06-26-2005, 02:06 PM
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#3
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Feb 2005
Posts: 215
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Quote: Originally Posted by pancit175
if you're trying to amp sub boxes a small amp that fits in a glove box wont do. I got a small 2 ch amp that drives 80 watts that would barely fit in the glove box but all it drives is my center channel.
As far as amplifier size goes, just a small 100-200 watt amp would actually do it for subwoofers. My friend is running a really cheap amp that says it does 200 watts, and it actually is acceptable, and very small. It is a really cheap amp though, doesnt even have a low pass filter, so I am going to find an inductor for him. So basically, getting an amp that could push a sub and that could fit in a glovebox isnt impossible. Of course, with all the other stuff in there, it would have to be a huge glove box.
As for heat, I really dont know if it would be an issue.
After saying all of that, it seems kind of silly to me to fill up a glove box with that stuff. Their is a difference between putting something into a car, and actually installing it. If you ask me, putting all of your stuff in your car is just that, but I wouldnt consider it an actual installaiton. Of course, their are the situations where you cant modify your car, but if the car is yours, and modification is not an issue, please dont just throw everything in the glovebox. You will be happier if you do it the right way.
Matt
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06-26-2005, 04:52 PM
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#4
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Posts: 86
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Quote: Originally Posted by mbuchman
As far as amplifier size goes, just a small 100-200 watt amp would actually do it for subwoofers. My friend is running a really cheap amp that says it does 200 watts, and it actually is acceptable, and very small. It is a really cheap amp though, doesnt even have a low pass filter, so I am going to find an inductor for him. So basically, getting an amp that could push a sub and that could fit in a glovebox isnt impossible. Of course, with all the other stuff in there, it would have to be a huge glove box.
Matt
I don't think you can accurately make such a broad assertion that is the suggestion that 100-200W is "enough" for "a subwoofer". It all depends on the subwoofer! Some subs don't do well with <500W RMS, much less 100-200W (which may not be enough to even move the sub much). Cheap subs tend to have low power requirements, but many of the better subs really do need 300+ watts to perform well, and some need 600+ W to perform as intended.
You COULD put an amp in the glovebox, but why? You could mount it under the rear baffle in the trunk and it'd be out of sight and out of mind. If it's a small amp, it'd be easy to run 8ga to the amp in the trunk and a set of interconnects.
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06-27-2005, 01:58 AM
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#5
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BE
Posts: 129
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thx for the replys. I should'have mentioned that I need an amp to power the stock speakers. The amp for the subwoofer would go in the trunk.
I don't want to just throw it in the glovebox. I would modify it so that it would look nice. Running a few 8ga(4 pairs if I'm not mistaken) wires from the back to the front is no option, because of all the other wires I had to run to the front. There's just no more place to do it nicely and hide them all.
The fact that I would have interference is an important factor though.
If I want to install it under the passenger seat, wont it get to hot then?
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06-27-2005, 01:56 PM
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#6
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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I've installed alot of amps underneith the passenger seat given that there is enough clearance. I only do it if there isnt any type of control modules of any sort nearby to cause any interferrance, if there isnt any ventilation ducts that would make it difficult to mount the amp to the floor, and if i can securely screw it to the floor.
As for heat, it shouldnt be an issue because it's not as a closed space like your glove box. the only type of heat issue is if the amp had a fan on it that the output was blocked. but if were you planing on installing it in the front you dont need to use 8ga wires at all thats just too much for whats needed. all you really need is 16 or 18 ga wire for the speaker wire. and you'd have to run a new set of power wires to the new amp. You could loop the speakers through the factory system i do it all the time also, its kinda weird but it works and save you from sending wires all over the place and your factory wires should be able to take the signal from the amp.
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06-28-2005, 04:20 PM
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#7
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BE
Posts: 129
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That's also why I would install it in the front.
I came across a 5.1 surround system for the computer today. it had a total of 1000W rms. It was pretty expensive at 400€, but the sound was unbelievable and again it would save me alot of cabling issues. I could easily work away the small boxes and the sub would go in the trunk. It only seems a little silly to do something like that with 8 stock boxes around to play with.
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06-28-2005, 04:57 PM
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#8
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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Actually what i mean is to mount your amp in the rear and connect the rear speakers there, then hook the lines from the amp that will go to the front spks, hook those lines to the rear speaker lines. Given that they are no longer attached to the rear speakers. The rear speaker lines will go behind the deck so you can tap the front speakers lines to those. all of this done without breaking a sweat.
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"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
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06-29-2005, 01:41 AM
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#9
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BE
Posts: 129
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ah, that's an interesting approach. That would mean that I no longer have CDC and radio. But it's good to think about it.
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06-29-2005, 08:56 PM
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#10
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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you can still use a radio. The output of the radio would go to the amp, usually through RCAs.
__________________
"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
[-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)
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06-30-2005, 04:14 AM
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#11
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Low Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2003
Posts: 111
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Okay, if you're worried about the temperature of an electronic device you need to know some things to do it right, most of which you won't be able to figure out without lab equipment.
so, the best way to do it is figure out what temperature the device is rated for, put it where it fits and stick a thermometer on it.. drive the **** out of it for a couple hours (i.e. maximum power dissipation) and if it gets to within 80% of the rated max temperature, it's probably not a good idea, move it and try again.
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06-30-2005, 12:37 PM
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#12
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FLAC
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Floreeda
Posts: 1,011
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use common sense.
An amp is a large piece of metal that uses its own case as its heatsink.
heat needs to dissipate. If there is NO airflow over the amp, it will overheat.
use your head when you place your amp. Dont put it in a box, dont mount it under a seat with no air space.
Amps run better the cooler they are.
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No more loot for the carpute.
Trying to fit my 20" iMac into the dash... RF 600.5 amp, two 10" JLW0, 8 Infinity Components
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06-30-2005, 06:05 PM
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#13
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: BE
Posts: 129
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So has anyone tried this: Creative MegaWorks 5.1 THX 550 ?? overkill or just getto?
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06-30-2005, 07:59 PM
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#14
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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Oh hell no!?! Are you even thinking about using that in your car?!? Thats just wrong!?! Sorry to squash your dreams buddy but I thats only 4 home use. Not to mention its set for 120vac not to mention installation would be what I like to catagorize as "ri-****-ulous".
You're starting to get yourself in deeper trouble than what you were originally thinking of doing. let me be the first to pull you back from the dark side.
__________________
"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
[-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)
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