Audio Install Questions

Shelbrain · 10-21-2005, 03:53 PM

2005 Chevrolet Impala (please scroll down for questions)

Current Issues/Questions:
1. How do I determine what size fuses I will need? I need one at the battery and then three at the distro block; one for each amp and the Carputer.
2. How do I extend my headunit wire harness? (I am relocating headunit to approx. 2 feet away from stock location)
3. How do I extend my stock antenna, keeping in mind it is a GM vehicle
4. Can anyone recommend a replacement XM antenna for the Alpine TUA-T020XM unit?
5. Should I replace the stock speaker wiring with the upgraded wire and run it directly from each speaker to the four channel amp in the trunk?
6. How hard is it to wire up molex connectors for the touchscreen AND powered USB hub up front (touchscreen is 12v and hub accepts 5v and the carputer power supply has inputs for this, I just need to build a cable with molex connectors on each end). I also need to prepare another 12v molex connector for the external harddrive which will also run off the power supply.
7. Is the sub amp two small for the two 10” JL subs?
8. Do you think the Infinity Kappa speakers will be sufficiently powered by the Alpine 4 channel amp?
9. Do you have any recommendations for a trunk layout. At first I was thinking a fiberglass enclosure for each of the amps in the wheel wells, but practically speaking, I have never fiberglassed before. I read the sticky regarding fiberglassing and it definitely motivated me.

Any other recommendations/comments are greatly appreciated. All of these items have already been purchased and a local installer has fabricated a console to house the Alpine radio and USB hub which has not yet been completed. The same installer was supposed to do the installation, however that seems to have fallen through as the installer has not been responding to my calls/emails for the past two months about getting my radio and console back and I am looking for another local installer in Florida. I would be willing to drive for assistance. I would also like to point out that this is my most involved install thus far and I am a little overwhelmed at this point. For the past several months I have been disappointed with myself for the lack of progress in my project despite having all the components necessary to complete the build

Headunit: Alpine CDA-9830
-3-4v preouts
Four Channel Amp: Alpine MRV-F345
-75 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (150 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms)
Sub Amp: Alpine MRD-M301
-150 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (250 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
XM Tuner: Alpine TUA-T020XM
Auxillary Input: Alpine KCA-121B (used to feed XM tuner above and also Carputer via 1/8” to RCA Adapter)

Carputer:
Xenarc 700 TSV: 7" VGA Touchscreen Monitor
Rikaline 6010 USB GPS
Morex 2699B Case
Via Epia MII 1000 Motherboard
512MB Ram
80 GB 2.5" HD
Slim DVD/CDRW
Turtle Beach Cataline Soundcard
ITPS
IGuidance 2.0 Navigation Software
OBDII Diagnostics BR-1 Interface (Engine Diagnostics)
Netgear 802.11g Wireless Card
External Seagate 250GB Harddrive in USB 2.0 Enclosure
Opus 150 Watt DC-DC Computer Power Supply

Subwoofer: (2) JL Audio 10W2V2 –dual 4 ohm version
Front Speakers: Infinity Kappa 60.7CS
-2-90 watts RMS (270 watts peak power)
-2 ohm impedance
Rear Speakers: Infinity Kappa 693.7i
-2-110 watts RMS (330 watts peak power)
-2 ohm impedance

Battery:Yellowtop Optima Upgraded Battery (already installed)

Sound Deadening: 150 sq. feet B-Quiet Ultimate

Power Wiring: Knuconeptz 4 Gauge Amp Wiring Kit
-20 Feet 4 AWG Blue Kolossus Power Wire
-3 Feet 4 AWG Silver Kolossus Ground Wire
-One FH-24 with 80A Fuse size
-TWO 5 Meter Klarity Kable Blue OFC RCA Cable with Built in Turn On lead
-20 Feet BLUE Klear Kable OFC 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
-2 Gold Plated 4 AWG Ring Terminals, 2 Gold Plated 4 AWG Spade Terminals
-6 feet Split Loom and wire ties
Distro Block: Knuconceptz 4 Output Fused Distro Block
-4 gauge input & 4 8 gauge outputs
Ground Block: Knuconceptz Ground Block
Speaker Wiring: Knuconceptz 12 Gauge Speaker Wire
Battery Terminal(s): Stinger SXBTM

Shelbrain · 10-22-2005, 02:30 PM

Good news! There should be an update within the next couple of weeks. The installer who has had my console for almost three months finally answered my wife's call when she blocked out the number and he has agreed to finish it by Thursday so she can pick it up. I just don't understand why he never returned any calls/emails-that is not good business practices, especially in a business that is based on word of mouth. Oh well, at least the project moves forward despite so many setbacks!

XxAndyxX · 10-22-2005, 10:06 PM

To see what fuse sizes you need use this:
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf

For extending the wiring harness, I would just splice in new wires.

I would rerun the speaker wires to the amp in the back

It's really easy to wire up the molex connector to the screen (I have the same screen) it requires about 1amp if I remember correctly and that hub shouldn't draw too much power so you don't need to go over board on heavy wire. I would just use 14guage speaker wire to hook it all up.

As for your "is my amp enough power for my subs" question, is that amp stable at one ohm? Also, what is the power handling of those subs?

I think you need more power out of your door and sub amps, but it probably will still sound decent just definitely not up to the systems potential.

I would try fiberglassing if I were you, it's a great thing to learn how to do, and a very useful skill.

I hope I answered most of your questions, feel free to ask more!

Shelbrain · 10-23-2005, 08:38 AM

When you say splice in new wires, are you referring to soldering them or using butt connectors?

Perhaps it is just because I don't have the molex connectors in hand, but do you just crimp the wire into the pins and then insert them in the connector. I searched to see if there was a photo tutorial on the subject, but couldn't find anything

I think I am going to try and do the fiberglass, I am still trying to decide on a trunk layout for all of these components.

Thanks for your help! Please keep the suggestions coming

XxAndyxX · 10-23-2005, 01:16 PM

Soldering them will give you the best connection, but it's probably okay to use butt connectors, that's what I would use.
General rule: Solder > connectors > electrical tape
(always rap solder with electrical tap though)

You are correct on the molex connectors, you just crimp the pins onto the wire and stick them into the molex head.

If you give us a picture of your trunk, we might be able to recommend some layout designs.

TruckinMP3 · 10-23-2005, 01:21 PM

If you are interested in a better connection for the molex... Crimp, solder then insert into the plastic

Shelbrain · 10-23-2005, 01:27 PM

I have attached a picture with the carpet off. My first thought was to fiberglass each amp into the wheel wells and then cover them with carpet. Next I was going to use an old sealed sub box up against the rear seats (should it face to the towards the front or back of the car). In my last install, I had the subs facing towards the front and I liked that sound. As far as the carputer was concerned, I was going to either hide it behind the sub box or mount it to the bottom of the rear shelf (where the rear speakers are). What do you think?

Another suggestion someone made was the install an MDF board and mount both amps on it to go directly behind the seats and then the sub box behind that. This would leave both wheel wells empty and I could use one for the PC install.

Unfortunately removing the spare tire is not an option because I use my vehicle for work and I need that accessibility.

Shelbrain · 10-23-2005, 01:29 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by TruckinMP3

If you are interested in a better connection for the molex... Crimp, solder then insert into the plastic

That sounds like a good suggestion. I have never soldered before, but it seems pretty straightforward. Any recommendations on soldering tools?

TruckinMP3 · 10-23-2005, 03:25 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shelbrain

That sounds like a good suggestion. I have never soldered before, but it seems pretty straightforward. Any recommendations on soldering tools?

Pencil styles are less expensive than the same quality gun... I think it is a preferance issue. You can spend a LOT or not much. For just wires I would say less money is fine. If you are going to work on circut boards spend more on the iron.