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Old 06-14-2006, 02:36 PM   #61
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Ah, good thinking. So those wires probably route back to the pin on the board, that's cool. I'll look at them when I get home.
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:57 AM   #62
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There's a 2 pin cable coming from the wire harness and I have it connected to both pins on the M1. That's bad isn't it? I haven't turned it on yet. How would I connect it to just 1, do I have to cut it?
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:26 AM   #63
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Well the wires maybe connected to both through some standard header connector, so just chop off the wire you wont use, and tie it up. You don't have to cut it either, just dont connect it!
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Old 06-15-2006, 12:42 PM   #64
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I'm going to have to contact them to confirm that, I want something to reference in case of warranty.

Another question, what are the gauge on the wires coming out of the ampie harness? I know the 3 bigger ones are 18 gauge with a thick jacket, what are the 4 smaller ones? 20 gauge? 22?
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Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
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Old 06-15-2006, 01:49 PM   #65
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The following are taken from the Ampie information thread found here: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show...ighlight=ampie
Also linked fromthe mp3car store's page for the ampie case.

Quote: Originally Posted by ZipLock

Quote: Originally Posted by sipneat
THANKS! I just bought this case ( I must say its really solid) and appriciate the pics as there are zero instructions on how to set it up. I have the .PDF for the M1-ATX, that was pretty easy, but I do have a follow-up question. If you look at the pic you see there are connections to the M1, then the connector that goes to the car for power, notice there are more wires on the car connection then on the M1 connector. Where do these go? Is there a step by step instruction manual on this? Loose wires always make me nervous!

Thanks!!

-SnE

The only wires that are required are the red, black, and white. Everything else is optional. Some of them aren't even connected on the other side.

Wiing by Zip-Lock:
Quote: Originally Posted by Zip-Lock
Here's how it wires up:

Wiring harness on inside of case:

Red: + terminal on M1-ATX - constant 12V battery power
White: ignition sense wire on M1-ATX (center terminal between black and red on M1-ATX)
Black: Ground, - terminal on M1-ATX

2 pin header (optional): can be connected to remote amp turn on, or remote switch.

2 pin header from red case LED: connects to LED header on M1-ATX


Wiring harness on outside of case:

Red: 12V + connect to battery
White: ignition switched, can be connected to an accessory wire (this tells the computer when it need to turn on or off)
Thicker Black cable: Power ground

Green: Not connected
Thinner black cable: Not connected

Orange on top: optional, may be used with amp enable or remote switch
Orange on button: optional, may be used with amp enable or remote switch

Specifically on the M1 and the J2 connector:

Quote: Originally Posted by Some guy with the same problem
I am confused about this J2 connector. Ziplock has the 2 wire plug from the Ampie case connector plugged into this J2. However, the M1 direction say J2 is for the amp remote, and Frankino here says the following:"NEVER wire your amp remote wires to the two pins on the M1, just use the positive one, if you need to groung it (some amps need it) place a fan or a resistor in serie to avoid short circuit. If you do not do it, short circuit WILL appen and WILL damage your M1 for sure (on mine the shutdown logis stopped to work after a bad amp wiring)".
So what's the deal

Check my plan here: find out which one is for the amp remote (since Frankino states not to plug into both) EDIT: Must be the red wire?
Cut the wire that is NOT for the amp remote and run that to 5V. This way at the Ampie plug (outside the case) I'll have one connection for the amp remote and one connection for 5V. Am I on track here or?

The M1 faq that was referenced:

Quote: Originally Posted by FAQ
FAQ: M1-ATX DC-DC PSU, how to avoid problems
A couple of hints, some valid for every DC-DC:

1) never connect or disconnect the +12 cable without having it disconnected from the battery, Faston connection can be poor and you'll get an huge spike connecting it manually
2) disconnect it from the battery when changing the timer jumpers
3) NEVER wire your amp remote wires to the two pins on the M1, just use the positive one, if you need to groung it (some amps need it) place a fan or a resistor in serie to avoid short circuit. If you do not do it, short circuit WILL appen and WILL damage your M1 for sure (on mine the shutdown logig stopped to work after a bad amp wiring)
4) remember it's a COMBINED 90w, using a calculator never gives you the assurance it will work for you, take care of the 12v load (2A max)

Same thread as a follow up:
Quote:
M1 PSU:
Red Wire: 12V Continuos (Battery Positive)
White Wire: 12v ACC (Ignition key on only "hot")
Black Wire: Ground (Battery Negative)

J2 Connector:
Red Wire is for amp remote
Black Wire is for nothing, cut it.

I see you posted the, so you must have seen this!
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:00 PM   #66
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Quote: Originally Posted by Some guy with teh same problem
I am confused about this J2 connector. Ziplock has the 2 wire plug from the Ampie case connector plugged into this J2. However, the M1 direction say J2 is for the amp remote, and Frankino here says the following:"NEVER wire your amp remote wires to the two pins on the M1, just use the positive one, if you need to groung it (some amps need it) place a fan or a resistor in serie to avoid short circuit. If you do not do it, short circuit WILL appen and WILL damage your M1 for sure (on mine the shutdown logis stopped to work after a bad amp wiring)".
So what's the deal

Check my plan here: find out which one is for the amp remote (since Frankino states not to plug into both) EDIT: Must be the red wire?
Cut the wire that is NOT for the amp remote and run that to 5V. This way at the Ampie plug (outside the case) I'll have one connection for the amp remote and one connection for 5V. Am I on track here or?
http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/atta...d=11273535 95

This is PRECISELY the same problem I had and posted about WAYYYY back when...they told me that they would update their install instructions...I guess they never did...lol
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:15 PM   #67
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I need to hear it from the manufacturer simply so I can refer to it if something bad happens with my hardware and they try to void my warranty because I hooked it up wrong.
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Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:17 PM   #68
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That's good thinking I guess. But doesn't Zip-Lock manage the mp3Car Store? If you bought it from here, then he would be just as good I'd think.

Well, it might take longer, but you'll be covered if anything happens!
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Old 06-15-2006, 02:21 PM   #69
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Quote: Originally Posted by 2k1Toaster
That's good thinking I guess. But doesn't Zip-Lock manage the mp3Car Store? If you bought it from here, then he would be just as good I'd think.

Well, it might take longer, but you'll be covered if anything happens!

Cool, I didn't know that.
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Ampie Case
2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Toshiba 5400rpm
Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
VIA EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX Mainboard
M1-ATX 90 Watt - Smart Power Supply

2005 Honda Civic
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Old 06-23-2006, 01:01 AM   #70
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Since I'm getting nearer to actually putting the computer in the car, I've read into this with some detail. Here is a picture of both of them hooked up, the way I did it when it arrived....without powering it up.

So from here is where I'm only 90% sure. So I have to take the cable off the 2 pins and spin it around, and connect only the red wire to the pin the red wire was on the begin with? In other words, have it connected the same way it is now without the ground? So the motions I would go through are....remove the cable from both pins, spin it 180 degrees, and hook up only the red wire to the same pin the red wire was on. Correct?
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Ampie Case
2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Toshiba 5400rpm
Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
VIA EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX Mainboard
M1-ATX 90 Watt - Smart Power Supply

2005 Honda Civic
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Old 06-23-2006, 09:22 AM   #71
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from what i recall, the pin closest to the caps is the + and is the one that needs to be connected.

I posted about in that thread here:

Link

more specifically:

Quote:
ok - well they sent me a new power supply. This time with jumpers already attached to the 2 jumper spot. Using only ONE of those jumpers (the red positive one) I tied into the remote lead and it worked!

so......just remember to tie into the ONE lead that's closest to the caps and you should be good to go!

the guy on the phone did say that they needed to rewrite the instructions.....since they aren't very clear.....YA THINK!?

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Old 06-23-2006, 07:04 PM   #72
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How do I do it without cutting the wires? the cable only goes on one way and that's with the black ground wire attached the the pin closest to the tall metal things.
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Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
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Old 06-26-2006, 01:51 AM   #73
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So this is exactly how I have mine wired right now, but haven't hooked it to power yet. So the connecter we're talking about is the one in the middle with the red and black wires coming out of it right? How exactly do you eliminate the black wire from the equation? I need just the red in that same red spot right?

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2.5" Hard Drive 80GB Toshiba 5400rpm
Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
Xenarc 700TSV - VGA Monitor
VIA EPIA M10000 Mini-ITX Mainboard
M1-ATX 90 Watt - Smart Power Supply

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Old 06-26-2006, 03:27 PM   #74
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Just want to bump this to get it figured out before I get home.
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Kingston 512 MB DDR RAM PC3200
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Old 06-26-2006, 03:49 PM   #75
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*unbumps it to prevent him from figuring it out*
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