Welcome to the MP3Car.com forums.
You are currently viewing our boards as a guest which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. Registering will also remove advertisements. By joining our free community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join our community today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact contact us.
|
05-29-2006, 03:20 PM
|
#1
|
|
Newbie
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
|
Ground audio system to battery??
I was wondering if anyone has their car system grounded to their car battery. I have been having a problem with my heater core being 'blown' 3 times already. After the third time the technician said it was because of the stereo system I installed. He suggested I ground the system to the car battery. I've never heard of anyone grouding their system to the battery, most people use the car chassis. And I do believe its true that the system is causing my heater core, before I installed the system I didn't have the problem, and I've had my system disconnected for 3 weeks now to verify that the core didn't leak again and it hasn't. So, is grounding to a car battery something that can be done?
thanks in advance to all replies.
|
|
|
05-29-2006, 03:30 PM
|
#2
|
|
Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: Cal Poly Pomona or Redlands, CA
Vehicle: '98 Toyota 4Runner
Posts: 672
|
this might be a completely noob question, but WTF does your audio componets and where they are grounded have to do with a blown heater core?
did i miss something? please tell me if i did. maybe this is just one of my stupid moments.
anyway, your battery is grounded to the chassis, and your amp to the chassis. you could try running a ground straight to the battery, just to see if it helps, im just not sure of the connectiong between the heater core being blown and the audio system.
__________________
1998 Toyota 4Runner SR5 V6 4x4 in Evergreen Pearl Metallic, Lifted, Locked, and Armored. CarPc in custom console with molded touchscreen.
Pictures
Photobucket is being updated, if a picture i posted no longer works, please PM me.
|
|
|
05-29-2006, 04:36 PM
|
#3
|
|
FLAC
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Conyers, GA
Vehicle: 2003 Pontiac Vibe GT
Posts: 1,417
|
You might need to upgrade the ground wire between battery and chassis.
Also do you dim your headlights a lot?
|
|
|
05-29-2006, 06:37 PM
|
#4
|
|
Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Vehicle: 96 Talon
Posts: 614
|
Yes you can do that, and yes It has been done before. But I have a hard time trying to figure out what an electrical component has anything to do with a thermal component in you're car. And how it would cause you're heater core piping to leak. It just may be a coincidence.
Unless the mechanic is thinking that you're sound system is comprised of a flux capacitor and the bolt of lightning needed is causing the heater core to melt causing the leak you're experiancing. Just a thought...
__________________
" In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few. "- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
[DONE&DONE] (Considering a redesign)
|
|
|
05-30-2006, 09:35 AM
|
#5
|
|
Newbie
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 2
|
Its kind of hard to explain how it happened but I'll try. He said my radiator was electrically charged somehow. He is almost positive its caused by the system. Electrolysis he called it. The current flew through my radiator to the heater core and apparently it was too much for the heater to handle, which caused it to leak. Its hard to believe, but so far I'm convinced cause like I mentioned earlier I've had my system disconnected for almost four weeks and haven't had a problem since. When I had it connected it blew out twice in one month. Once 3 months earlier. I do have a capacitor in my system. I noticed he disconnected the grounds from the chassis.
One things for sure I can't afford a blown heater core again, or car battery for that matter. So I guess I will try to ground my amps to the battery. Should I connect them both together and run it to the battery. Or should I ground the 1000 watt amp to the chassis and the capacitor/2400 amp to the battery??
|
|
|
05-30-2006, 10:28 AM
|
#6
|
|
Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: South Carolina
Vehicle: 2004/Chevy/Cavalier
Posts: 340
|
that sounds like a complete crock of crap to me. a heater core is nothing more than a small radiator. electricity has no effect on it. especially if you're talking about a ground..
you gotta remember, electricity is lazy. it takes the easiest path back to the battery (ground). it's not going to go through and destroy various items in your car, especially make a small radiator start leaking, lol...
and it looks like you having your system disconnected, and the leak fixed are coincidences.. i bet if you hooked it back up there would still be no leak. the other times before, it just wasn't fixed properly
of course, this is only my opinion.. and opinions are like assholes, everyone has one!
|
|
|
05-30-2006, 10:32 AM
|
#7
|
|
Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Anaheim Hills, Ca
Vehicle: 2004/BMW/325i
Posts: 847
|
I have my amps grounded to the same grounding point as my car battery....when you do this, you have to be very very careful to replace the factory ground wire properly. You might also want to upgrade the factory ground wire as suggested.
As for the heater core being blown...the guy didn't know what he was talking about...he blamed it on the first thing he noticed.
__________________
PostCount++
- SrCsTc's Bezel
- Alpine W200/H701
- ED Nine.2X
- OZ Matrix Elites
- ED Nine.1
- Idmax 12's
|
|
|
05-30-2006, 02:34 PM
|
#8
|
|
Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: upland california us
Vehicle: 1981 chevy el camino
Posts: 757
|
usually i'm very respectfull to everyone,but this time i will say what i think.that technitian is a retard,when the car is off the battery feeds all the electrical system,when car is on the alternator kicks in positive and negative,even charges your battery,soo depending on the connection between the alternator and the chassis and the whole metal parts on the car,is how strong youre ground is in there.(talking about the negative side),somebody said about upgrade the ground wire's,i recomend that, if the car is not to new,running a ground all the way to the battery is the very last resource,just remember powering a 12v device you just need positive and negative,about the elecrolysis just search for info about it,and you will find that is not possible.
Last edited by EL CAMINO : 05-30-2006 at 02:39 PM.
|
|
|
|
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
|
|
|
| Thread Tools |
|
|
| Display Modes |
Linear Mode
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -5. The time now is 03:26 PM.
|
|