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07-02-2006, 07:14 PM
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#16
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Vehicle: 2000 Nissan Xterra
Posts: 267
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sorry about the drastically late response, I recently graduated, and I have been busy with the formalities and whatnot in relation to it, and I haven't had time to check back on this site.
Thank you for all the input that was given, It's still rather confusing to me, but you guys have cleared up some things for me.
My preference is clarity for subs, yes I'd like them to be loud, but clarity is a must. I've always assumed that dual subs that are rated less are cleaner than one beefier sub (assuming they're both of fairly equal quality) If this is not the case at all, please slap me and let me know.
If I were to go the dual subs way, what would be a good match, Red was talking about going with entry level high efficiency sub, so I was thinking about going with those...I'm not asking to be spoon fed, after this post, I'm going to research more on this site, and friends and whatnot, but again, not totally understanding the logistics of it, makes it difficult to find a good match, so if anyone has their 2 cents to throw in on this one with specific subs (preferrably off bestbuy.com since I can get a discount) I'd appreciate it whole heartedly, this is pretty much my final step in the carputer setup, and I can't wait for the completion, I thank everyone for their time, and hope everyones doing well.
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07-02-2006, 09:46 PM
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#17
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Vehicle: 2000 Nissan Xterra
Posts: 267
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so, if i get 2 DVC subs @ 4-ohms, and wire each of them in parallel in each channel...would that drop their resistance to 2ohms a channel? making it rated at 300w RMS x2 @ 2 ohms?
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07-02-2006, 09:54 PM
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#18
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Vehicle: VW GTi VR6 / Ducati 900 SS & S4R / Dakota R/T Supercharged
Posts: 13,305
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assuming that when you say 300w RMS x2 @ 2 ohms, you are referring to the amp and NOT the subs, yes, you are correct.
The thing about car audio is that it's not cut and dry like a lot of things in life are.
It's a lot like computers.
Two video cards can have the same specs down to the period, but they can perform totally differently because of their manufacturer.
That's one reason you find people so into car audio and people so into computers. If it were so cut and dry, anyone could get it. Because it's not, and because it takes knowledge and an understanding of how it all works, you find people that REALLY get into this stuff.
Don't get discouraged because it's all a bunch of mumbo jumbo right now. It sounds like you've got a pretty good understanding of the basics.
The sub that you mentioned in your first post, the Alpine Type R, is a great sub. If you're more interested in clarity, I would shoot for an enclosure thats 1.5 ~ 1.75 cu. ft.
In the past the Type Rs did NOT like distortion, their ability to dissipate heat was NOT all that good, but I think they have fixed those situations. Just keep it in mind. You should tune your system appropriately and build an enclosure appropriately and you should be good to go!
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07-02-2006, 10:12 PM
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#19
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: Northern Virginia
Vehicle: 2000 Nissan Xterra
Posts: 267
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thanks red for all your suggestions, and if you dont mind, i'm just curious if when you were reffering to getting a pair of subs that were entry level and high efficiency, if you had a particular type in mind?
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07-03-2006, 06:42 AM
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#20
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Vehicle: VW GTi VR6 / Ducati 900 SS & S4R / Dakota R/T Supercharged
Posts: 13,305
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Jl W0
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07-03-2006, 06:45 AM
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#21
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
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Infinity Reference series, or Alpine Type E, or RE RE series ...
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07-04-2006, 05:44 AM
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#22
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FLAC
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Vehicle: 1992 citroën AX MKII
Posts: 1,260
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@Red GTI: i think we can count in the W1's as well. can handle a little more power and still decent priced
__________________
Xenia: pink princess
status:
In progress
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STATUS:
'T SQiekenkot: No Car
hardware: 0%
software: 0%
audio: 0%
building: 0%
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07-04-2006, 10:07 AM
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#23
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Vehicle: VW GTi VR6 / Ducati 900 SS & S4R / Dakota R/T Supercharged
Posts: 13,305
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absolutely!
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07-04-2006, 05:39 PM
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#24
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FLAC
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Vehicle: 1992 citroën AX MKII
Posts: 1,260
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but i'd have to go with infinity when it comes to efficiency/sensitivity (JL about 85Hz where Infinity is rated somewhat 95Hz?). that would mean you wouldn't need as much power to get to the same DB's. very simply explained that is, because the parameters (other than efficiency), and the construction of your enclosure are as important as well if you want to get the maximum out of your subs (power aswell as sound-quality)
__________________
Xenia: pink princess
status:
In progress
------------------------------------------------
STATUS:
'T SQiekenkot: No Car
hardware: 0%
software: 0%
audio: 0%
building: 0%
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07-05-2006, 05:14 PM
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#25
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
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IC-C30, you're right that the Infinity subs are more efficient but efficiency is rated in decibels at 1 watt per meter. Basically, it measures how effective the speaker is at turning power into sound pressure.
Infinitys do a rockin good job in a prefab box. They don't need much airspace in a sealed environment. Often you can get a pair of 'em for $100 at CC.
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07-05-2006, 05:35 PM
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#26
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FLAC
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ghent, Belgium
Vehicle: 1992 citroën AX MKII
Posts: 1,260
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i know how efficiency is measured. but it's still a fact that power costs money, so you better get a good efficient sub with a little less powered amp than a less efficient sub with a more powerful amp. am i right or am i right 
__________________
Xenia: pink princess
status:
In progress
------------------------------------------------
STATUS:
'T SQiekenkot: No Car
hardware: 0%
software: 0%
audio: 0%
building: 0%
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