amp keeps on blowing fuses

0l33l · 06-21-2006, 10:54 PM

I finished my carputer install yesturday, and I've got a problem with my sub amp. The amp has blown its second fuse in basically one day. First time it blew the fuse I was trying to lower the gain because I felt that it hit too hard for the volume. The second time it blew when I turned the carputer off. The wiring is new, and there aren't any shorts that I know off, since its been blowing the fuses when I was still stationary.

Any ideas on how to solve the problem would be great

kickercivic1 · 06-21-2006, 11:03 PM

If it works and then blows fuses and you said you have no shorts, there is something wrong with the amp internally.

0l33l · 06-21-2006, 11:04 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kickercivic1

If it works and then blows fuses and you said you have no shorts, there is something wrong with the amp internally.

Any chance that the gain or something is set too high?

Jahntassa · 06-21-2006, 11:33 PM

Doubtful.. you'd probably have to have it cranked all the way (or more) to accomplish that.

Also, what fuse? The one that's installed by the battery, or the one physically on the amp? What kind of amp and how is it hooked up with the speakers? What are the fuses rated on the amp if those are blowing?

0l33l · 06-21-2006, 11:39 PM

Well... it does hit a bit too hard for 35% volume. That's why I wanted to turn it down a bit, and then the first fuse blew.

I am talking about the fuse on the acutal amp. I've got a 60 amp fuse right next to the battery, and then 3 30amp fuses going to each component (sub amp, 4 channel speaker amp, carputer). This amp has a 20 amp fuse.

How is it hooked up? I bridged it (its a bridgeable amp), and it goes to the stock sub.

Sidewalksalvage · 06-21-2006, 11:46 PM

Quote:

there aren't any shorts that I know off

Have you run down every line (power, ground, AND remote) to make sure??

There was a short in my remote line for one of my amps which caused the fuse to blow...

Also, what is the amp rated for...is 20A what originally came with it. (I do NOT suggest throwing in a 30 or something just to see if it works that would DEFINATLY hurt the amp.....) but if it is supposed to have a 30 and there is a 20 that would cause it to blow for sure (i know it sounds stupid...but hey you never know...)

0l33l · 06-21-2006, 11:58 PM

The amp is a Kicker IX402. Specs. Manual.

Manual says 20a.

How do I know that there aren't any shorts... because it worked when I was driving. The remote is connected between two of my amps (actually, it goes into the speaker amp, and a wire from the speaker amp goes into this one). So that's not the problem.

Sidewalksalvage · 06-21-2006, 11:59 PM

The best way to check for a short is to actually run along the wire and see if theres a break in the coating anywhere....

if manual says 20A then it should be right....

0l33l · 06-22-2006, 12:01 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage

The best way to check for a short is to actually run along the wire and see if theres a break in the coating anywhere....

if manual says 20A then it should be right....

I know. I made sure already

0l33l · 06-22-2006, 12:05 AM

Oh yeh... and I used 8Ga wire. 4Ga from battery to distribution block, and then 8Ga to everything else.

Another question... should I have it set to 70 or 110 Hz?

Sidewalksalvage · 06-22-2006, 12:06 AM

Wow dunno really waht to say....

You may want to take the amp out and hook it up to a AC-DC supply at home and run some tests like adjusting gain and stuff to see if its the unit or your wireing.

If its the unit it will probably blow outside the car just as well as in

if it doenst blow...then look further into whats happening in the car....

Maybe try hooking it up to the other amp connections and see if the same thing occurs.....

0l33l · 06-22-2006, 12:08 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage

Wow dunno really waht to say....

You may want to take the amp out and hook it up to a AC-DC supply at home and run some tests like adjusting gain and stuff to see if its the unit or your wireing.

If its the unit it will probably blow outside the car just as well as in

if it doenst blow...then look further into whats happening in the car....

Maybe try hooking it up to the other amp connections and see if the same thing occurs.....

I'll turn the bass and gain all the way down and go from there. Will also double check the wires (yet again).

So no one thinks its an impedence problem? How about the settings for LP and HP and Hz?

Sidewalksalvage · 06-22-2006, 12:11 AM

Well waht is the ohm rateing for each sub?

Is it in parallel or serial set up?

Can the amp handle 2 ohms in bridged mode?

if the subs are 4 ohms each and are in parallel they make up 2 ohms....

but even all this.....

usually its an over heating problem with impedence not an electrical...

0l33l · 06-22-2006, 12:13 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Sidewalksalvage

Well waht is the ohm rateing for each sub?

Is it in parallel or serial set up?

Can the amp handle 2 ohms in bridged mode?

if the subs are 4 ohms each and are in parallel they make up 2 ohms....

but even all this.....

usually its an over heating problem with impedence not an electrical...

There is only one sub. Its a stock pioneer one. IIRC its either a 4Ohm or a 8Ohm sub.

I just bridged it.

Overheating..... ok.... I'll also check for that tomorrow.

Will Albers · 06-22-2006, 07:56 AM

You need a multimeter. Please read this thread: http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=79186

Unplug the speaker wires and check the impedence. What do you get? Now check to see if you have the wires grounded by using the continuity checker of the meter.

My guess is that the subs are wired at too low an impedence for the amp, the speakers are blown/shorted or somewhere the speaker wires are touching ground.

This can also happen if one or two strands of speaker wire are touching the other terminal.

If your ground is inadequate, the amp will pull more amperage to compensate. This will melt wires and pop fuses all the time.

If all of these are kosher, then its your amp.