ElementXofXMusi

Hi guys, first time posting on this forum. Let me get to the point. I have a 600 watt Lanzar Vibe 4 channel amp that is bridged to push two ten inch subs. My problem is that my amp sometimes shuts off for 15-30 seconds. This can happen right when I start my vehicle or when I am driving later on. The green l.e.d. on the amp turns off thus letting me know my amp is off.

Steps I have taken to remedy my problem: I have replaced the battery, Inspected all wires, replaced amp fuse in battery line, checked all possible fuses, swapped my amp for another and got similar results, checked and changed my ground to a bare surface with a metal screw.

Also along with this problem if turn my system up on my alpine cd player pretty high it sometimes shuts off my cd player and then turns the cd player back on.

I don't have to have my system particularly loud for the amp to shut off either and it never happens in an identical situation. Hopefully someone can help me with this problem. A little bit of history is I have had this amp for about 3 years and in my old truck never had a problem, never had a problem with my old singe sub, and with my two tens I had no problems with my whole system for close to a year and then out of no where I started having this problem with my amp shutting off. Any solutions? I did a search but could't find the same problem.

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Spoiler

My fuse was too loose in the holder and I just added a little foil to the contacts and voila! No more problems.

ElementXofXMusi

hmmmm I am pretty sure my fuse is in there tightly. I could try the foil idea but not sure thats the right solution.

Tim Lake

Maybe going into protection. That happens if they get too hot or get a surge in voltage they can't deal with (possibly the thump of turning the car on).

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DJiK

Since both amps are doing the same thing, and you're only been experiencing this problem in this car, I'm assuming you have a bad connection on your Remote Turn-On wire.
Check the connection and how it's set up... Possibly it's even coming from the headunit itself...

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Tim Lake

Get the multi-meter out. Your remote wire should have 12v when the ignition is on and nothing when it's off

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VIA M10000
512Mb RAM
30Gb 2.5" HDD
Bluetooth, 802.11g, GPS
Silverstone USB DAC
Consult (ODB)
CarTFT K500
Carnetix P1290
NLited XP with Road Runner and MapMonkey

Spoiler

My two amps are fed off of one 4 gauge and therefore in the engine compartment use one fuse, so it may be a power issue, but it sounds like you've covered your bases on that front.

LaxPlaya8513

what was the 2nd amp you tried? i'm assuming that possibly the 4ch amp can't handle the output you want it to give out. get a mono amp. and can you ohm test the subs? the amp could be going into protect mode because of it overheating from a blown sub. but again check the other problems listed by other people out first. It could be numerous other problems, but these are the more likely ones.

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Shadow

Underimpedance. What subwoofers are you using and what amp? Most 2-channel amps are only stable at 4 ohm mono (2 ohm stereo). Running the amp lower than this causes it to draw too much current and it goes into protection mode.

ElementXofXMusi

I have two 10 inch audiobahns. Specs for my subs:
>4-ohm stereo impedance (2 sets of terminals)
>frequency response: 24-1,000 Hz
>recommended power range: 100-600 watts RMS (300 watts per woofer)

And I have a 600 watt lanzar vibe 4 channel amp. Specs for my amp:
>4 x 100 Watts RMS at 4 Ohms
>4 x 200 Watts Max at 4 Ohms
>2 x 400 Watts Max at 4 Ohms Bridged
>4 x 175 Watts at 2 Ohms
>Electronic Crossover Network
>Bridgeable at 4 Ohms
>2 Ohm Stereo Stable
>Tri-Mode Capable
>Frequency Response:15 Hz-35 kHz

I have the first two channels going to the first sub and then channels 3/4 going to the second sub.

Also my amp is not overheating because it s never hot to the touch. And how could it overheat say first thing in the morning when my amp doesnt want to start up right away? My amp is only pushing the two subs, no other speakers. I have suspected the amp turn on wire before, but it has a solid connection and isnt lose. The amp turn on wire is the skinny blue one right?

Shadow

Not necessarily blue, but usually.


What? Is it a dual-voice coil speaker? If so, there's your problem.

ElementXofXMusi

Yeah I just researched my subs and they are dual voice coil subs. Is that a problem? If so how do I remedy it?

ergman

If the spearkers have 4 ohm Dual Voice coils and you are wiring them in parallel then you are running at 2 ohms. This is probably putting your amp into protection mode. Check out the link below.

To remedy the problem you might need to upgrade to a amp that can run 2 ohm stable or even 1 ohm stable.

http://www.rockfordfosgate.com/rftec...l+-+4+ohms+x+2

Anyone else see this as his issue?

Shadow

Your amp can't handle the load you're trying to put on it.

Remedy steps:
1. Get rid of that amp
2. Get a two-channel amp that's stout enough to push both of your woofers and you can either run them at 2 ohm stereo (parallel the coils on the subs and connect one to each channel) or 4 ohm mono (run the coils on the subs in series and parallel the subs to one another to the bridge input on the amp). The first setup's probably easiest for someone who's not too keen on impedance and wiring.

ElementXofXMusi

Okay so I am willing to buy a new amp that will run my subs at a 2 ohm load. I want to be able to push my subs pretty hard so are their any recomendations for wattage and RMS? Specific brands?

Also why did it take my system so long to start having problems? It went about....at least 7 months with no problems.

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