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Old 07-28-2006, 03:02 AM   #1
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Exclamation M1-atx amp control

Anyone else have a problem with the m1-atx stop outputting 12v to the amp turn on pins?

Mine stopped turning the subs on. So I had to connect it back to the deck since i put the deck back in for now.
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:37 PM   #2
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no one else has the problem? Or have some ideas to why this is happening?
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Old 07-28-2006, 06:47 PM   #3
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I have never had this problem. One of the pins is ground and the other is +12v. You only need one. Are you connecting the right one?
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Old 07-28-2006, 08:03 PM   #4
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jeez dude, u only waited 3 hours

but no, i've never had a problem with this either, u checked ur connections i assume?
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Old 07-29-2006, 10:46 PM   #5
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i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.

With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.

But since I didnt really need the turn on delay, because i'm running optical with my alpine, I just hooked the remote line to a the Ignition line. Not to mention I also have an active push-button with a relay to turn on the amps so that it's not on only when I push it, and not blasting when I get in after I remote-start my car.
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Old 07-30-2006, 07:21 PM   #6
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Thanks for the input. For me it used to work. But you mentioned not enough draw, when i had it working, i had both the stock amp and my sub amp connected to turn on. This time was just the sub amp. But i tested with a multimeter and i get nothing now from those 2 pins. Soi guess that that part went bad or something.

Thanks
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Old 08-04-2006, 12:47 PM   #7
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Im a total newb when it comes to car PC, but not car audio.
Multiple amps off one remote turn on is a big no no.
Try this out:
1 30amp SPDT Relay
Connect: #87 to 12V Constant (use proper fuses on this)
#86 to 12v Remote lead off your PS
#85 to GND
#30 to Amps or other devices. (use proper fuses on this)
Hope this helps
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Old 08-04-2006, 01:06 PM   #8
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Monster, usually a picture helps someone to understand relays when you're referencing terminal numbers.


You don't really need to fuse #30. and #87 should be to switched power, not constant. This absolutely makes sure that the amps can't turn on if something decides to malfunction (except the relay) when the car's off.
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Old 08-05-2006, 10:28 PM   #9
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In my case the current draw wasnt enough to even run the relay that was triggering all the amps I have
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Old 08-06-2006, 02:40 AM   #10
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Quote: Originally Posted by pancit175
i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.

With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.


Have the same problem. The current just isn't enough.
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Old 09-16-2006, 12:56 PM   #11
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For the numbers... I'm another one that have amp turn on issues. Mine won't turn on a relay... just sad!!!
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Old 09-16-2006, 01:59 PM   #12
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Quote: Originally Posted by proph View Post
For the numbers... I'm another one that have amp turn on issues. Mine won't turn on a relay... just sad!!!

have you tried a solid state relay?
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Old 09-17-2006, 07:52 PM   #13
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not a bad idea. maybe a switching transistor circuit if one were so inclined
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Old 09-18-2006, 09:47 AM   #14
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i had a BOSCH SPDT automotive relay kick my amps on with my old m1atx.. one pin was 12v+ and the ground coil was tapped from a different ground wire from one of the molex connectors. worked perfectly, though the amps stayed on until the system turned off, but that was about the time you opened the doors so it was sorta like having a car with a radio that plays until you open a door.
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