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07-28-2006, 03:02 AM
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#1
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 223
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M1-atx amp control
Anyone else have a problem with the m1-atx stop outputting 12v to the amp turn on pins?
Mine stopped turning the subs on. So I had to connect it back to the deck since i put the deck back in for now.
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07-28-2006, 06:37 PM
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#2
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 223
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no one else has the problem? Or have some ideas to why this is happening?
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07-28-2006, 06:47 PM
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#3
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Pennsylvania
Posts: 213
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I have never had this problem. One of the pins is ground and the other is +12v. You only need one. Are you connecting the right one?
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07-28-2006, 08:03 PM
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#4
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Seoul, Korea
Posts: 1,036
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jeez dude, u only waited 3 hours
but no, i've never had a problem with this either, u checked ur connections i assume?
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07-29-2006, 10:46 PM
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#5
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.
With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.
But since I didnt really need the turn on delay, because i'm running optical with my alpine, I just hooked the remote line to a the Ignition line. Not to mention I also have an active push-button with a relay to turn on the amps so that it's not on only when I push it, and not blasting when I get in after I remote-start my car.
__________________
"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
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07-30-2006, 07:21 PM
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#6
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Constant Bitrate
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Monterey, CA
Posts: 223
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Thanks for the input. For me it used to work. But you mentioned not enough draw, when i had it working, i had both the stock amp and my sub amp connected to turn on. This time was just the sub amp. But i tested with a multimeter and i get nothing now from those 2 pins. Soi guess that that part went bad or something.
Thanks
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08-04-2006, 12:47 PM
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#7
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Newbie
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1
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Im a total newb when it comes to car PC, but not car audio.
Multiple amps off one remote turn on is a big no no.
Try this out:
1 30amp SPDT Relay
Connect: #87 to 12V Constant (use proper fuses on this)
#86 to 12v Remote lead off your PS
#85 to GND
#30 to Amps or other devices. (use proper fuses on this)
Hope this helps
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08-04-2006, 01:06 PM
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#8
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FLAC
Join Date: Jul 2001
Posts: 1,109
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Monster, usually a picture helps someone to understand relays when you're referencing terminal numbers.
You don't really need to fuse #30. and #87 should be to switched power, not constant. This absolutely makes sure that the amps can't turn on if something decides to malfunction (except the relay) when the car's off.
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08-05-2006, 10:28 PM
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#9
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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In my case the current draw wasnt enough to even run the relay that was triggering all the amps I have
__________________
"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
[-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)
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08-06-2006, 02:40 AM
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#10
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2004
Location: Sharjah, Emirates
Posts: 394
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Quote: Originally Posted by pancit175
i actually had a similar problem with my M2-Atx.
With the remote line Not connected to anything the line tested as ~+12V. But when connected to the remote lines of the amps the voltage tested as barely existant. I attempted a current test and found that it did not have the proper current draw for switching on the relays, or as if there was some internal resistance in the circuit thus causing the drop in voltage.
Have the same problem. The current just isn't enough.
__________________
Final Touches
Car: 2002 Mitsubishi Magna EI
CarPC: SP13000, M2-ATX, 512 MB RAM, 120 GB 2.5" HD, X-Fi Sound Card, Xenarc 700TSV, Garmin 18 USB.
Audio: 2X15" Rockford Punch Z, 1 Rockford Punch 2-ch Amp, 1 Soundstream Lil Wonder II 4-ch Amp
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09-16-2006, 12:56 PM
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#11
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 419
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For the numbers... I'm another one that have amp turn on issues. Mine won't turn on a relay... just sad!!!
__________________
Setup:
Dynaudio 240GT
PPI PC4100, PPI PC2350
Zapco DSP6
ADS DAC
Testing new board (Albatron KI690-AM2)
"I dont know if complaints were filed, or mistakes were made, but feelings were hurt." -Krystal Washington
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09-16-2006, 01:59 PM
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#12
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MySQL Error
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles Ca
Posts: 3,703
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Quote: Originally Posted by proph 
For the numbers... I'm another one that have amp turn on issues. Mine won't turn on a relay... just sad!!!
have you tried a solid state relay?
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New System in progress:
M10k
Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
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Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
Transflective Xenarc
My Car Pc Install
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09-17-2006, 07:52 PM
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#13
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: chicago, Illinois
Posts: 696
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not a bad idea. maybe a switching transistor circuit if one were so inclined
__________________
"In the beginners mind there are many possibilities, but in the experts mind there are few."- Shunryu Suzuki
"Do it right or don't do it at all"
PROGRESS:
[-------90%-] (New Car=New Build)
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09-18-2006, 09:47 AM
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#14
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Variable Bitrate
Join Date: Apr 2004
Posts: 338
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i had a BOSCH SPDT automotive relay kick my amps on with my old m1atx.. one pin was 12v+ and the ground coil was tapped from a different ground wire from one of the molex connectors. worked perfectly, though the amps stayed on until the system turned off, but that was about the time you opened the doors so it was sorta like having a car with a radio that plays until you open a door.
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