Alternator vs Battery - Page 2

Peoples · 08-08-2006, 10:14 PM

ill have to take wired's side. first.....cranking mean....supplying the starter with enough voltage to get it to turn over the engine.....this is when the battery is working the hardest.

second.....multi-alternator setups are pretty rediculous........i think i've heard of an old car that used to have this from the factory as an option......not sure though...anywho spend $200 and get a high output alternator off ebay and go to a battery shop and find a heavy duty battery like an optima or comparable.

Siezmik · 08-09-2006, 12:38 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Peoples

. . .get a high output alternator off ebay and go to a battery shop and find a heavy duty battery like an optima or comparable.

Agreed. Go with a H.O. alternator (200A or so), and supplement your Optima with another battery just for the audio gear. A nice choice due to it's small size is a Kinetiks HC600.

vortex1521 · 08-09-2006, 02:15 AM

Few things:

1. Cranking while driving means having it loud (crankin it up)
2. When the enginer is off, voltage never gets above 13 volts
3. Sometimes, subs shut off for a few seconds even though the amp is cool and not in protect the just start goin again.

One thing I thought is squeeze in a second HO alternator, run power from that to optima red top in trunk to be exclusively for amps, and keep the stock alternator with the stock battery purely to start the car and run car electrical system. Is doin that really that much better than just replacing the alternator with a 200 amp?

Oh, and 5 or 6 alternators would be nice, but I think I'm just a tad shy on the room in the hood...

parksgm · 08-09-2006, 04:36 AM

Whether or not the OP is capable of adding an additonal alternator to the engine has nothing to do with his relative newness on this forum.

Also, if he happens to have an extra alternator or two and some metal working tools + experience lying around, it wouldn't be that difficult to fab up a bracket...and certainly cheaper than buying a high output alternator /second battery.

My guess is that his stock alternator/battery combo would normally be sufficient, but is underperforming for some reason....slipping belt, bad alternator, bad battery, etc. I'd go to AutoZone and get a free charging system check...takes less than 5 minutes, and then the OP will know if the charging system is deficient. After all...this could be the amp, it's just not as likely.

RedGTiVR6 · 08-09-2006, 07:03 AM

Being that it's a honda - there are a ton of aftermarket alternators out there for it.

Ohio Generator, Powermaster, etc. Just some that come to mind.

Btw - Alma Gates has retired...her Bronco will be at a few shows here and there, but she's officially retired....shame too - she was a wonderful woman. Great lady to talk to, love why she got into car audio in the first place. Great story.

Shadow · 08-09-2006, 07:40 AM

I haven't talked to her in a couple of years. Still have her cell phone number though.

It's always great to get into something because someone told your kid they had no chance at something. What's Patrick up to these days Red?

blkwrx · 08-09-2006, 08:11 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Shadow

I haven't talked to her in a couple of years. Still have her cell phone number though.

It's always great to get into something because someone told your kid they had no chance at something. What's Patrick up to these days Red?

I remember that story... I never met her but I saw an interview somewhere and she seemed like a nice lady.

Wiredwrx · 08-09-2006, 12:18 PM

if the OP would just answer the questions posed to him, this would be easy.

When does it cut out, when running or when starting (cause obviously to the OP, cranking means turning up the music :???

The cheapest and easiest thing is to get an HO alt and/or an Optima, especially in your tight Honda engine bay.

Michael

vortex1521 · 08-09-2006, 02:10 PM

The subs cut out after playing for a period of time whether the car is on or off. Either the sub amp goes into protect and shuts off, or the subs just stop when the amp is still on and cool. Engine running the voltage is between 13.5 and 11.4, engine off the coltage is between 12.5 and 11.2 or so, just a little lower than when the engine is running. And as I've said before, I already have an optima redtop battery.

vortex1521 · 08-09-2006, 02:12 PM

And also I've looked many different places, including ohio generator and powermaster, and none make a HO alternator for a 2004 accord. My hope is to either replace the stock one with a CP144 wired for 200 amps, or add that same CP144 as an additional alternator which will go exclusively to a redtop battery in the trunk that just runs the audio system.

RedGTiVR6 · 08-09-2006, 02:17 PM

so wait a second, your sub amp is going into protect mode, that's what's causing you to look into a bigger alternator?

I'd look into the wiring of the amp or the amp its self before looking at such drastic measures are replacing the alternator.

Do you even know what the stock alternator size is?

Wiredwrx · 08-09-2006, 02:19 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by vortex1521

The subs cut out after playing for a period of time whether the car is on or off. Either the sub amp goes into protect and shuts off, or the subs just stop when the amp is still on and cool. Engine running the voltage is between 13.5 and 11.4, engine off the coltage is between 12.5 and 11.2 or so, just a little lower than when the engine is running. And as I've said before, I already have an optima redtop battery.

I assume that is voltage at the battery or near the battery. What about at the AMP? Is the ampe being cooled somehow. Is it hot where you are?

Your battery and alternator seem to be working O.K., but I would do as suggested above, and get it checked out.

I am no audio expert, but since the voltage seems correct, and you say it goes into some protect mode, the only thing I can think of is the following,

There is an intermittant problem from a faulty connection. Maybe it oxidized, got loose, or corroded from water, or who knows,

There is an intermittant short circuit not sufficient to blow a fuse, but to send the amp into protect mode,

Or, the amp is getting to damn hot from "crankin" it and because it is hot where you are, and there is no cooling on the amp.

vortex1521 · 08-09-2006, 02:27 PM

This is the 3rd amp that has had this problem, and all the wiring has been changed 3 times. It is hot right now, but it happens during the winter as well. My firm belief is that the alternator is not putting out enough amps to run the system, so the battery is compensating which is causing a voltage drop (which is evident as displayed on the distribution block). And when voltage drops, the amp tries to compensate by creating more current, which trnaslates into heat. then it gets hot enough to cook an egg off of so it goes into protect.

It's only recently (since I took this amp to its full potential of 1500w) that the subs stop without the amp going into protect. It seems really odd to me as the amp is still giving power, and then the subs just pick up again after about 10-15 seconds without even needing to drop the volume.

I am going out today to check the charging system at autozone, but there isn't much to make me think that there is a problem with it other than I'm adding an additional 120 amps to the load, which it is clearly not capable of handling.

vortex1521 · 08-09-2006, 02:29 PM

http://www.zena.net/htdocs/alternators/AutoSound.shtml

Take a look at this and let me know what you think. It's all pretty relevant, but about half way down it talks about splitting the electrical system...

RedGTiVR6 · 08-09-2006, 02:31 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Red GTi VR6

Do you even know what the stock alternator size is?