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01-18-2007, 03:20 PM
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#1
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
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Two Questions that have gone unanswered
I looked around a bit for the answer to these questions my good friend the google monster gave me an array of different answers and I dont trust it. So i bring it here.
When you Set your Grounds for your components (Amplifiers, DC-DC, Computer,ETC) Is it a good idea to Ground Everything To a Common Point?
..and..
I Read that your 12v+ and ground should be the same gauge. But i wondered if it would be ok to have a larger gauged wire as your ground.
Example:
[+ -]--(fuse)---8Gauge---(amp)===4gauge===[¥] <ground point
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01-18-2007, 03:33 PM
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#2
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MySQL Error
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles Ca
Posts: 3,703
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yup, common ground is best. and yeah, you can have a larger ground, won't gain you anything but it wont hurt anything either.
__________________
New System in progress:
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Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
Transflective Xenarc
My Car Pc Install
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01-18-2007, 06:24 PM
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#3
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 13,481
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common grounds are best if at all possible, but you want to try and keep your grounds as short as possible if possible. It's a delicate balance really.
a larger gauge ground wire won't hurt anything. Just don't go smaller. This includes your battery ground. If you add on to your battery with an 8 gauge, take into account that added wire on top of the other wires that are coming off of the positive. That needs to be considered when upgrading your factory ground off of the battery.
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01-18-2007, 06:51 PM
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#4
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 512
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common grounds are best but as said shorter ground wires mean alot too.
Heres what I did
1/0ga wire from battery positive to the trunk area
1/0ga cable from the battery negative to the trunk area
Positive cable goes to a fused distribution block
Negative cable goes to a non-fused distribution block
Everything goes to those blocks
__________________
Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video
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01-18-2007, 07:00 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 13,481
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running a dedicated ground from the battery back is a good thing, it's exactly what we've done in our car.
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01-18-2007, 07:24 PM
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#6
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MySQL Error
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: Los Angeles Ca
Posts: 3,703
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i've heard mixed reviews on this (and to me; the way you did it, makes the most sense), what is your reasoning behind doing it this way?
__________________
New System in progress:
M10k
Phaze TD1500 ~> Dynaudio MD130
Phaze TD1500 ~> Seas g18rnx/p
Zapco Ref 500.1 ~ 12" tc-9
Behringer DCX2496 ~ Envision Electronics psu
Transflective Xenarc
My Car Pc Install
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01-18-2007, 07:43 PM
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#7
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Colony, TX
Posts: 549
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Quote: Originally Posted by RedGTiVR6 
running a dedicated ground from the battery back is a good thing, it's exactly what we've done in our car.
i always thought about doing that. but then the ground wire would be longer instead of short as possible. im assuming you used 1/0awg correct for least resistance?
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01-18-2007, 07:49 PM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Little Elm, Texas
Posts: 13,481
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1/0 all the way. If it's connected to the battery, it's not as big of a deal with it being longer.
By running the ground back, you're not relying on the cars chassis to allow the flow. Many newer cars have silent steel technology that means that they don't ground as well as previous cars.
This method also means that there's little to no chance of ground loops. If you go through a distro block then from there to the ground on the battery.
The equivilant resistance of a chassis of a vehicle is around a 4 gua cable from trunk to under hood (remember this from a Dave Navone article from a few years back in Car Audio and Electronics I believe it was). This is due to spot welds and the like. If you're running more than 4 gauge for power...well, you can see the point I'm making.
Other downfalls? Cost...I guess...but in the grand scheme of things, it's really not that much.
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01-18-2007, 08:00 PM
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#9
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: The Colony, TX
Posts: 549
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i see
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01-18-2007, 08:34 PM
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#10
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 783
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Hmm, interesting. I use 0/1 gauge for my power and ground to a distro block, but the power is (obviously) direct to the battery, while the ground is to a well sanded point of bare metal. Maybe I should rewire the ground direct to the battery...
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2005 Infiniti G35 6MT Coupe Black/Black
Core Duo CarPC
CarDomain page
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01-18-2007, 08:47 PM
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#11
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Georgia
Posts: 512
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if you're going to ground to the chassis then heavily consider a BIG Three Upgrade.
IE :
1 cable from negative battery to chassis of car
1 cable from negative battery to engine block
1 Cable from postive battery to alternator.
That way you beef up your connections all around. Good idea to do the big 3 in any case to help power usage.
__________________
Car : 00' Chrysler 300M
Speakers : Rainbow Audio SLC 265 | Subs : Diamond Audio D6 12" Subs X2
Amp's : Hifonics ZXi 6006 AB | Hifonics BXi 1606 D
CarPC: HP Laptop AMD Sempron 3000+ | 1.5GB RAM | DVD+RW | 80GB 5400RPM HD | ATI R200 Video
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01-18-2007, 08:48 PM
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#12
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Maximum Bitrate
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Salinas, CA
Posts: 783
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Yep, did that allready, as well as a 8 wire ground kit from various points on the engine and ECU directly to battery negative.
__________________
2005 Infiniti G35 6MT Coupe Black/Black
Core Duo CarPC
CarDomain page
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01-19-2007, 08:46 AM
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#13
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Newbie
Join Date: Jul 2006
Posts: 36
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awesome thanks for the help guys
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