Stang70Fastback

Ok, I'm COMPLETELY new to this. So far I have a wire running from the positive terminal of my battery to the B+ jack on the amp. Then I ran a wire from GND to a bolt under the rear bench seat (it sparked a bit, so I know it's connected.) Next I ran the speaker wires and connected those. Now, I know i need that remote thing in order to get the amp to turn on. Problem is I'm not wiring it to the radio at all, its an entirely separate thing. How else can I set it up so that it will turn on when I flip a switch, for example.

Im not very good at wiring and stuff, the best I was able to do was run the wire through the firewall. If you tell me I need to connect it to the acc key of my car, or to the head unit, I'll be helpless... :P

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rowl3y

just pit a switch on the remote wire that goes to your radio should be quite easy bro

Stang70Fastback

Well, I could do that, but heres my problem. My mechanic told me that it wouldnt be a good idea to hook that up to my car's power because I might lose the alternator. I'm doing it anyway because my car CAME with an amp/subwoofer under the driver seat, so THIS setup (with 4 15 watt speakers going to a 240 watt amp) can't possibly draw more power than the radio setup ALREADY in the car. I figured as long as I use only one at a time, I will be fine. If I hook it up to the radio's remote output switch, then I have to turn on that system as well to get the other one on. I want to avoid that.
If I turn the radio on, but keep the volume all the way down, will that still the current, or does it only really draw current when you turn up the sound. If so, then that's fine, but I don't want to be running BOTH systems off the car at the same time.
Thanks for your help!

J187

You mechanic told you what wouldn't be a good idea to hook up to the car's batter, the amp? Does he or she think this is a radical new concept, putting amps in cars? You won't lose the alternator. It will strain the alternator a tiny tiny bit, making it wear out a little bit fast, like maybe 5 days earler than normal.... If you dont' want to rely on the radio for remote turn on, then find a fuse in the fuse panel that you know is only hot when the ignition is ON. Then, tap into that fuse run that wire out of the fuse box and into a small switch somewhere that is properly rated. Then, out of the switch and into the remote turn on for the amp. Leave the switch on 99% of the time, and the turning the car on and off will turn the amp on and off, but you'll have the switch there in case you ever need to turn off the amp while your car is running for whatever reason.

This isn't hard and even though you are new at this, you can do it. Just be cautious and do a little research, ask questions and you'll get better. A simple wire and switch can be done but you just need to research the net a little. FOr instance, when you connected the ground to you your amp, you shouldn't have had a live power feed to it before connecting the ground. Not a huge deal, but just one of things you would have found if you researched a bit.

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Stang70Fastback

What I've decided to do is put a switch in like with the 12 V cable running from the battery, and then splice that wire at the amp so that it goes to both the remote and the power. That way I just have control of it that way.

And yea, I'll remember to hook that up last, lol.

J187

Wait, you're going to use the same wire that you use to connect the amp to the battery to trigger the turn on? That means you are either using too small of a wire to power your amp or way too big of a turn-on lead. Also, it means you'll have to remember to switch off the power every time you get out of the car, even to run into the store. If that's what you are planning, then I think that's terrible idea and you should just take a little more care to apply an accurate trigger to the remote.

BTW, I LOVE 70 Fastbacks! What color, red and black?

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dskel

Sounds like you need to take a little more time and splice into the remote for the head unit; really not that hard to do; and run that back to the amp so you dont run the risk of draining you battery. Also on your ground make sure you sand down the area around that bolt; seat bolts are meant for that seats not a point of grounding so make sure to take a few extra minutes to ensure you have a good connection; your amp will thank you

That coming from experiance in having a crappy connection for my ground and lost a couple of components!!

My .02 would be to find a spot and create your own chassis ground (drill hole) and sand it down to bare metal to make sure you have a good connection. Will take about 10-15 minutes longer but save you headaches in the long run. But again that is my .02

J187

Respectfully, I disagree that seatbelt bolts don't make good grounds, often, they do. As a general rule, the less holes you drill in your car in the better, cetirus paribus. But ground your amp close by if possible. If you do scuff the surface, sand, etc. be damn sure you paint over it after the connection is made w/ some kind of rustproofing.

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Stang70Fastback

Well, for my application I'm going to be using this for EXTREMELY short periods of time (think PA system... :P), so I don't mind having to remember to turn it on and off - in fact I prefer it that way - entirely separate.

As for the wire, its 12-guage. Is that thick enough to have it run to two 12 volt jacks like I said I was going to do? I guess that means 24 volts total going through it... but again, I don't plan on using it for more than maybe 5 minutes at a time. In fact, I'll probably be flipping it on and off every time I make an announcement/sound effect.

And yea, I'll be sure and sand the seat bolt down good... or maybe drill another hole next to it, idk... gotta work all this stuff out first

J187

If you run 2 wires from 12volt source, it doesn't mean there is double the voltage. It means you have 2 wires, each with 12volts. No, 12awg is not good enough to wire amps. 10 is the smallest, most cases 8awg is preferred. The remote can be as small as 14

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Stang70Fastback

No, that's not quite my setup. Here - try this:

BATTERY---------------SWITCH------------------------ B+
.................................................. .............'--------- REMOTE
.................................................. ...........................GND-------------o

I was told I could use ONE wire and splice it at the end for both B+ and REMOTE. In other words, the wire goes through the switch then splits to go to both of those ports.

And I thought the higher-gauge wire was better lol - cause its more expensive, isn't it? Shows how much I know.

J187

The HIGHER the guage number, the THINNER the wire. Kinda counterintuitive, I know. You COULD do what you are asking. But its not really good practice. If you are going to do it, do this. Run your 10 or 8 awg from the battery into the trunk. Make sure you put the requiset inline fuse just after the battery. Now you'll need a 12volt switch that will accept 10+awg wire? I just don't recommend it. I would run seperate wires like I suggested. Its a LITTLE extra work and its a lot safer and easier in the long run. AND, you'll at least have the added switching of the ignition. Remember, if you use a switch on the constant hot feed of the battery, ALL DAY when your car is not one, the switch is heating and heating.

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EricE

errr....
You might want to revisit that one.

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2k1Toaster

well the counter-intuitive part is right.

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J187

HAHA he tripped me up. That was some bugs bunny Sh##.

All these years of Car Audio install and deisgn and I've been screwing people on the wiring left(holds up right hand) and right(holds up left hand). ..


Eric, maybe remove that quote from your post in case someone see's only that and thinks its correct....

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