FS: LCD Controllers - $90.00+shipping - Page 4

mikeinsanmarcos · 03-07-2003, 09:09 AM

That pinout is exactly like mine... Why dont you try both ways and see which one works, you wont hurt anything.. It will display funky color levels if you hook up the color lines wrong.

Mike

jzgt · 03-07-2003, 09:18 AM

ddt, I wondered about that, too but I came to the reasoning (after looking at other 24 bit controllers) that it would be connected 1:1. I have a similar panel (essentially - contrast and brightness are different but they are the same pin out) that I researched the pin out info for.

- Jeff

ddt · 03-07-2003, 11:26 AM

Well I'm about to start the tedious take of soldering and heat shrink wrapping 31 wires. I think it'll be 1:1. We'll soon see...

mikeinsanmarcos · 03-07-2003, 12:34 PM

Are you actually considering soldering directly to the Hirose connection on the panel? That would be borderline crazy to attempt.. Good luck, I hope you didnt drink any coffee for the last month...

Mike

infrared · 03-07-2003, 12:38 PM

Mike, do you have AIM? Contact me ASAP please at ATLien1222

Thanks
Jason

infrared · 03-07-2003, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by mikeinsanmarcos
Well, I am not sure about any other panel but my panel is one to one starting with LSB... B0 goes to B0, B1 goes to B1, etc... This only makes sense to me because if you are using binary numbers and each color can see 6 bits of data, you will have 64 possible color levels. Now say you wanted to set red to color level 45, you would need to put binary value 101101 on the six red lines starting at the LSB. If you looked at all 8 bits, you would see the number 10110100 (this is the same number in binary if the LSB is on the left).

That is how I see it anyway.. (but, I have been completely wrong in the past)

Mike

Hmm, is this how you did your cable? I don't see how it would work because when you have 10110100, you should be copying (lsb) 0110100 (msb) into the 6bit value. You do not want to copy the exact number, you're basically scaling the 0-255 value to a 0-63 value. If you do it your way, the panel will not be able to tell a difference from 45 and 173:

45 -> (lsb) 10110100 (msb)
173 -> (lsb) 10110101 (msb)

So if you're saying copy the least significant bits, you would be taking 101101 from both on both numbers. What I'm saying is take the 6 more significant bits. So for 45 you would have 110100 and for 173 you would have 110101. Then, according to the panel, red would be at a brightness of 11 for the 45 (which works out, 63/11 ~= 255/45) and the 173 would be at 43 (which also works out, 63/43 ~= 255/173). I hope this helps explain the situation.. Another example would be complete black versus 128. You would notice a big difference here, such as random black pixels when you're fading colors or whatever.. 00000000 and 00000001 are the full 8 bit values, if you copy only the lower significant bits (italicized), the panel would think black for both, but if you copy the more significant bits, it would think black for the black, and 32 for the 128.

MY STUPID MISTAKE:
When I was sending out requests for the cable creation, I used the wrong pinouts!! I always knew that MSB should be linked instead of LSB, but it slipped my mind when I was making the pinouts. SO DON'T ORDER FROM QUADRANGLE YET!. I will go email everyone and tell them about my slip-up. Sorry about this!

Oh yeah, and jzgt, that means your pinouts are probably incorrect too because I just compared them to my faulty ones.

If you link the LSB together, it will work only when in 18bit mode, but if you do the MSB bits, it will work in 32bit [and maybe other modes as well, but I haven't clarified].. (thanks Mike for clarifying!)

Jason

jzgt · 03-07-2003, 01:59 PM

Jason,
I had the LSB linked 1:1 - in my old pin out. So are you saying for an 18-bit panel it should be:

For the hirose cable:
LQ10D367 / Hyperion Simplicity Series
Pin Assignment Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------
1 gnd / 36 gnd
2 clock signal / 37 clock signal
3 hsync / 34 hsync
4 vsync / 33 vsync
5 gnd / 31 gnd
6 r0 (red signal) / 28 r1 (red signal)
7 r1 (red signal / 27 r2 (red signal)
8 r2 (red signal) / 26 r3 (red signal)
9 r3 (red signal) / 25 r4 (red signal)
10 r4 (red signal) / 24 r5 (red signal)
11 r5 (red signal) / 22 r7 (red signal MSB)
12 gnd / 21 gnd

13 g0 (green signal) / 18 g1 (green signal)
14 g1 (green signal) / 17 g2 (green signal)
15 g2 (green signal) / 16 g3 (green signal)
16 g3 (green signal) / 15 g4 (green signal)
17 g4 (green signal) / 14 g5 (green signal)
18 g5 (green signal) / 12 g7 (green signal MSB)
19 gnd / 11 gnd

20 b0 (blue signal) / 8 b1 (blue signal)
21 b1 (blue signal) / 7 b2 (blue signal)
22 b2 (blue signal) / 6 b3 (blue signal)
23 b3 (blue signal) / 5 b4 (blue signal)
24 b4 (blue signal) / 4 b5 (blue signal)
25 b5 (blue signal) / 2 b7 (blue signal MSB)
26 gnd / 1 gnd

27 enable / 32 data enable
28 Vcc 5V / 40 Vcc 5V Supply Voltage
29 Vcc 5V / 39 Vcc 5V Supply Voltage
30 N/C
31 N/C

Is that incorrect?

- Jeff

mikeinsanmarcos · 03-07-2003, 02:15 PM

Here is my opinion... If you have an 18 bit screen, setting your computer to 32 bit resolution will not increase your color depth. I would think that the best possible way to hook up your display is 1-1 and leave the display at 18 bit and 640 x 480 as this will exactly match the pixel count and color depth of your LCD (assuming your LCD is 640 x 480)... This will result in the ABSOLUTE best possible picture you can possibly get from this lcd.

Just my 2 cents...

Mike

jzgt · 03-07-2003, 02:29 PM

Mike,
Then, after hooking up yours, you think my original was correct as you stated in your post after my pin out post?

Just so you don't have to go back, this was my original:
For the hirose cable:
LQ10D367 / Hyperion Simplicity Series
Pin Assignment Pin Assignment
----------------------------------------------------------
1 gnd / 36 gnd
2 clock signal / 37 clock signal
3 hsync / 34 hsync
4 vsync / 33 vsync
5 gnd / 31 gnd
6 r0 (red signal) / 29 r0 (red signal LSB)
7 r1 (red signal / 28 r1 (red signal)
8 r2 (red signal) / 27 r2 (red signal)
9 r3 (red signal) / 26 r3 (red signal)
10 r4 (red signal) / 25 r4 (red signal)
11 r5 (red signal) / 24 r4 (red signal)
12 gnd / 21 gnd
13 g0 (green signal) / 19 g0 (green signal LSB)
14 g1 (green signal) / 18 g1 (green signal)
15 g2 (green signal) / 17 g2 (green signal)
16 g3 (green signal) / 16 g3 (green signal)
17 g4 (green signal) / 15 g4 (green signal)
18 g5 (green signal) / 14 g5 (green signal)
19 gnd / 11 gnd
20 b0 (blue signal) / 9 b0 (blue signal LSB)
21 b1 (blue signal) / 8 b1 (blue signal)
22 b2 (blue signal) / 7 b2 (blue signal)
23 b3 (blue signal) / 6 b3 (blue signal)
24 b4 (blue signal) / 5 b4 (blue signal)
25 b5 (blue signal) / 4 b5 (blue signal)
26 gnd / 1 gnd
27 enable / 32 data enable
28 Vcc 5V / 40 Vcc 5V Supply Voltage
29 Vcc 5V / 39 Vcc 5V Supply Voltage
30 N/C
31 N/C

Thanks!

- Jeff

infrared · 03-07-2003, 02:40 PM

Jeff, your previous post is correct for Mike's method.

However, I wouldn't recommend that. 18bit color depth isn't really a standard when it comes to software like it is for LCD panels. When you go to select your resolution and color depth, 18bit isn't even a choice (well, not for me and my old geforce2). I'm sure you could get it using PowerStrip or a program like that, but I'd rather just use the recommended choices.. In a previous post by pigseye, we all decided to use the most significant bits there as well.. Sure it will work if you just do R0->R0, R1->R1, etc. for 18bit, its not really flexible.. Here is the pinout if you want to use the most significant bits:

hirose -> idc

1, 5, 12, 19, 26 (all grounds) -> 1, 10, 11, 20, 21, 30, 31, 35, 36 (all grounds)
28, 29 (all Vcc) -> 38, 39, 40 (all Vcc)
2 -> 37
3 -> 34
4 -> 33
6 -> 27
7 -> 26
8 -> 25
9 -> 24
10 -> 23
11 -> 22
13 -> 17
14 -> 16
15 -> 15
16 -> 14
17 -> 13
18 -> 12
20 -> 7
21 -> 6
22 -> 5
23 -> 4
24 -> 3
25 -> 2
27 -> 32

Mike is right about 32bit not increasing your color depth, but it really doesn't hurt either. You can still get every color in the 18bit range, and there will not be a performance drop either. I personally think its better to go with a widely supported color depth in Windows than 18bit. Aren't most graphic cards optimized for 16 or 32bit color depth? Hmm.. dunno, but anyway choice is yours..

Jason

mikeinsanmarcos · 03-07-2003, 02:49 PM

My way works perfect if you leave it at 18 bit... Infrareds way works perfect if you want to be able to select higher color depths (even though it would still see 18 bit but the nature of binary numbers would create a proportionally scaled 18 bit signal based on the 24 bit depth)... So ya, either way will work, infrareds way will be forgiving when using higher color depths... my way is probably more correct from an engineering standpoint...

Go with whatever way you want...

Mike

ddt · 03-07-2003, 04:10 PM

I went with Mike's way. Since I have 2 (exact same) screens and 2 (exact same) controllers I'll hook the other up using infrared's way and see what the best way is.

Unfortunatley I have only 1 inverter. When it comes in I'll be able to sit them side by side and see if it makes much difference.

Cordell · 03-07-2003, 11:56 PM

I wonder what the inside of this hirose connector would look like.. the one that came with the LCD with the flat flex ribbon cable. Maybe I could get to the back of it and be able to solder on some wires?

ddt · 03-08-2003, 01:08 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by mikeinsanmarcos
Are you actually considering soldering directly to the Hirose connection on the panel? That would be borderline crazy to attempt.. Good luck, I hope you didnt drink any coffee for the last month...

Mike

Nah... I have a hirose. I just have to mate it with a 40 pin IDC.

ShinkunoNamida · 03-11-2003, 10:48 AM

there are some fujitsu 8.4" tft screens on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...category=31569

as far as I can tell (from the controller docs) these should work with this controller. They seem to be going pretty cheap!