NiteMaxx digital night vision camera - Page 20

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 12:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Peoples

awesome, if you create a pdf template, that'd be sweet

.... sucks the color CCD is so large. Thats project enclosure is slightly smaller then my camera http://www.dpreview.com/reviews/canonsd450/page2.asp

no wonder that one guy was able to fit his in a paper clip holder. I was thinking "no way would this fit"

Man that canon is tiny. Too small. I'd loose the thing.

Though you can make the setup smaller with the ultra color ccds. If you got board lenses, they mount right to the board and are smaller than just the lens attachment on these. My rear camera has one for instance.

I'm not really impressed with my rear view cams night performance. If these work better, I'll rob the lens for that one.

I believe Mark also offers a color camera (without some of the DSP features) that is the same size as the standard Nitemax B&W CCD.

NiteMax Mark · 04-08-2006, 12:58 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by shotgunefx

I believe Mark also offers a color camera (without some of the DSP features) that is the same size as the standard Nitemax B&W CCD.

I've got the larger DSP based CCDs in Color and B&W.

The smaller CCDs are only available in B&W.

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 01:05 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NiteMax Mark

I've got the larger DSP based CCDs in Color and B&W.

The smaller CCDs are only available in B&W.

Hi Mark,
Just shot you an email on the ultra color ccds. You have a pinout? Can't find them anywhere.

The two ground wires, do I need to connect both and if so, just tie'em together?
update
Got your email thanks! Ground black for zoom. What do the other pins do?

NiteMax Mark · 04-08-2006, 01:38 PM

JP1 Power/Video Connector
JP1-1 +12V, 110mA
JP1-2 GND
JP1-3 VIDEO
JP1-4 GND

JP2 Option/Feature Connector (Ground pin to enable)
JP2-1 AES/ALC AES: Automatic Exposure Control. ALC: Automatic LEvel Control.
JP2-2 BLC Black Level Control
JP2-3 AGC Automatic Gain Control
JP2-4 ATW/AWC ATW: Auto tracking white balance. AWC: One push lock white balance.
JP2-5 MIRROR
JP2-6 2X ZOOM
JP2-7 GND

JP3 DSP SPI(?) Interface
JP3-1 +3V3
JP3-2 SDO
JP3-3 SDI
JP3-4 STB
JP3-5 SCK
JP3-6 GND

JP4 DC Iris Control Output
JP4-1 DUMP-
JP4-2 DUMP+
JP4-3 DRIVE+
JP4-4 DRIVE-

JP5 Video Iris Control Output
JP5-1 +9V
JP5-2 SIG
JP5-3 GND

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 01:54 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by NiteMax Mark

JP1 Power/Video Connector
JP1-1 +12V, 110mA
JP1-2 GND
JP1-3 VIDEO
JP1-4 GND

JP2 Option/Feature Connector (Ground pin to enable)
JP2-1 AES/ALC AES: Automatic Exposure Control. ALC: Automatic LEvel Control.
JP2-2 BLC Black Level Control
JP2-3 AGC Automatic Gain Control
JP2-4 ATW/AWC ATW: Auto tracking white balance. AWC: One push lock white balance.
JP2-5 MIRROR
JP2-6 2X ZOOM
JP2-7 GND

JP3 DSP SPI(?) Interface
JP3-1 +3V3
JP3-2 SDO
JP3-3 SDI
JP3-4 STB
JP3-5 SCK
JP3-6 GND

JP4 DC Iris Control Output
JP4-1 DUMP-
JP4-2 DUMP+
JP4-3 DRIVE+
JP4-4 DRIVE-

JP5 Video Iris Control Output
JP5-1 +9V
JP5-2 SIG
JP5-3 GND

Thank you much! Auto Iris hmmm. Wonder what it expects for voltage. I'd love to get it working with the giant lens I have. Too bad no auto focus.

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 02:24 PM

Just did a test. This CCD is awesome!

I ended up filing the holes to the end of the solder pad. I think doing so, you'll be able to connect the housing. I just need to find screws.

Wether it works or not, I didn't break it which is good news. I coated the bottom of the lens connector in liquid electrical tape (though regular would do just fine).

Then I carefully did the back of the holes so the screws won't inadvertently short anything. The ends of the solder pads are perilously close to some traces and components.

The image quality is excellent. I'll post pics once I can actually move it without it falling apart.

You can tell the difference with no IR filter compared to a regular camera. My jet black shirt looks gray, even in just daylight.

For fun, took my handycam and turned on the niteshoot. It looks like a very green flashlight. A lot greener than if you used the sony niteshot and it's mixing color and IR. Pretty cool.

The image is very sharp. It has a bit of a tiled pattern to it (like my rear cam but MUCH LESS noticable) which you mostly notice near light sources. Think it's an artifact of the DSP processing. Excluding camcorders, best video camera I've had yet.

Very very happy.

NiteMax Mark · 04-08-2006, 02:27 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by shotgunefx

Thank you much! Auto Iris hmmm. Wonder what it expects for voltage. I'd love to get it working with the giant lens I have. Too bad no auto focus.

It's not "expecting" any voltage for Auto Iris. These are outputs to power the iris motor in the lens -- the board itself is providing the voltage. If you look up the specifications on an Auto-Iris lens, you'll see a four-pin connector with the same signal names.

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 03:02 PM

Ok, filing to make the lens mount fit worked perfectly!

Click to enlarge

NOTE that this pic doesn't show "liquid tape" I used so there would be no shorts. Again regular electrical tape would probably be fine.

It only took me a couple of minutes, but a few tips.

The round file was IIRC from a 3 pack of files I got a radioshack awhile back.

Be very careful filing. Don't be stupid like me. When I first started filing, I wasn't thinking and started filing the outward side of the hole. You want to file the inner sides.

Hold your arms against something so you have a very limited range of motion. Otherwise, if it sticks, you might end up catching the board, pulling to hard and on the upstroke again, hitting components or worse, the CCD itself

Uh Uh Uh, You didn't say the magic word !

. I hit the board once or twice (not the CCD) before hitting on this.

Just take your time, should go pretty quickly. Few minutes tops. Also as the file is tapered, might want to angle it once your going so the hole is straight through. Just make sure that you dont' go to far and hit a trace past the thru-plate.

For screws, I robbed two of the board screws out of one of the nitemaxes I have. Get the first screw in a couple turns, then the second. Then tighten both. As it's a close fit, if you do one all the way, might have problems with the other.

Lastly, this information comes with no warranty

As soon as I find my paddle bits for cutting the lens hole in the project box and solder everything up, I'll get some pics and vids.

shotgunefx · 04-08-2006, 04:49 PM

Once I cranked it down a bit more, got a short. Luckily didn't damage the camera. So I used regular electrical tape this time. Just a little square were the screws go in and did the lens mount. I believe the short was from the lens mount hitting some traces. Anyway, the tape fixed it.

Still can't find my damn bits though to drill the hole

Genesisfactor · 04-08-2006, 06:05 PM

lol, i swear, one day a mod is going to move this thread form the for sale section...

shotgun, great job. I'm kinda ****ed a tthe size of the color ccd...i was hoping it would be a bit smaller so that it could be pretty discrete on my paintball gun and mask...looks like i'm going back to the drawing baord...

Can you provide a dimension for the color CCD?

Also, let's see if this will help you i the targeting systehm you wanted to build

Mark, have you ever experiemented with an IR laser and the nitemax? I'm hoping that it will produce a VERY WHITE spot of light that the color CCD will see and be able to zoom in on using the DSP.
http://cgi.ebay.com/IR-LASER-MODULE-...QQcmdZViewItem
does that look good? Neccessary ange is only about 100-200ft tops (paintball is a medium range game)

NiteMax Mark · 04-08-2006, 09:41 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

Can you provide a dimension for the color CCD?

The drawings above are in milli-meters. 42mm square, 38mm hole spacing at the corners and 22mm between lens-mount holes.

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

Mark, have you ever experiemented with an IR laser and the nitemax? I'm hoping that it will produce a VERY WHITE spot of light that the color CCD will see and be able to zoom in on using the DSP.

I haven't used IR lasers with the NiteMax but I have used IR LEDs. From what I see, it should work beautifully.

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

http://cgi.ebay.com/IR-LASER-MODULE-...QQcmdZViewItem
does that look good?

The laser in the link you provided scares the HELL out of me! From the listing: "The focus is so tight that we were able to ignite a piece of gun cotton with this unit." One problem with IR is the fact that you can't see it. This completely defeats the protective mecahnisms that protect your eyes and creates a situation where you can hurt your eyes without knowing. You won't respond to what you can't see! (When your iris would normally constrict, when you would look away or when you would blink.)

Genesisfactor · 04-08-2006, 11:20 PM

scares the hell out of you? i like it already! time to buy it now!
jk, i'll see if i can find a safer alternative. I'm sure no one on the field wants to go home blinded. But hey, then again, if i keep my mouth shut...hehe...think of all micheif i could do with an invisibile beam of light that causes fires....

Peoples · 04-08-2006, 11:29 PM

if your always wearing nightvision headgear when using it....you should be fine....and just be sure not to point it at anyone's eyes

Genesisfactor · 04-08-2006, 11:39 PM

psshs, if it was dangerous to ME, i wouldnt' do it...other people though

. No but really, i will try to find a safer, and lower power, alternative than an industrial strenght laser.

shotgunefx · 04-09-2006, 01:36 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by Genesisfactor

...
Mark, have you ever experiemented with an IR laser and the nitemax? I'm hoping that it will produce a VERY WHITE spot of light that the color CCD will see and be able to zoom in on using the DSP.
http://cgi.ebay.com/IR-LASER-MODULE-...QQcmdZViewItem
does that look good? Neccessary ange is only about 100-200ft tops (paintball is a medium range game)

I'm with Mark on that one. I wonder if you could de-focus it a little bit.

Funny talking about lasers. Last week, I took my laser pointer and put it through my wide angle lense, backwards.

It was like a microscope on the wall. You could see pieces of "stuff", they looked like bacteria, but I think they were fibers. I spent a good half an hour just putting random things on the lense and projecting it. Don't put salt. It gets in all the crevices