MP3Car.com - Show off your project http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/ Show off your ride. en Sat, 21 Nov 2009 12:32:54 GMT vBulletin 60 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/images/misc/rss.jpg MP3Car.com - Show off your project http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/ LandRover Discovery III, OEM look http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137394-landrover-discovery-iii-oem-look.html Wed, 18 Nov 2009 21:52:38 GMT Hi guys.

Here's a photo section from my latest install in a Discovery III.
Hope you like....















































































]]> Show off your project Aze http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137394-landrover-discovery-iii-oem-look.html 2007 Dodge Nitro CarPC http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137365-2007-dodge-nitro-carpc.html Tue, 17 Nov 2009 19:31:36 GMT Here is my install on our 07 Dodge Nitro.. Major props to all the people who helped me in this thread!! Hardware: $350 - Double Din Liliput GL629-70NP/C/T/DVI Touch Screen Monitor $120 - ZOTAC IONITX-B-E Intel Atom N230 1.6GHz NVIDIA ION Mini ITX ION Platform Motherboard/CPU Combo $70... Here is my install on our 07 Dodge Nitro..

Major props to all the people who helped me in this thread!!

Hardware:

$350 - Double Din Liliput GL629-70NP/C/T/DVI Touch Screen Monitor
$120 - ZOTAC IONITX-B-E Intel Atom N230 1.6GHz NVIDIA ION Mini ITX ION Platform Motherboard/CPU Combo
$70 - M2-ATX PSU
$31 - 4 CH 400W Car Audio Amplifier Motorcycle AMP
$28 - Navibe GM720 SiRF III USB GPS Receiver
$00 - OCZ 1GB 240-Pin DDR2 SDRAM DDR2 800 (PC2 6400) Dual Channel Desktop Memory Model OCZ2N800SR4GK
$18 - Double Din Radio Dash Kit
$10 - Custom Bracket from Soundman
$627 Total

Hardware On Order to be Installed:

$140 - PAIR TVIEW 7" LCD TFT Headrest Car Audio 2 Monitors IR - Headrest Monitors
$29 - PC MAC VGA to TV AV Composite RCA S-Video Converter Box - VGA to RCA module for headrest monitors
$169

Grand Total: $796

This is my third CarPC install.. I was initially nervous about putting one in this vehicle because I really didn't want to try and fab a screen into the dash as I'm not that good at it.. Luckily someone pointed out to me that they now make double din kits so that's what I did.

I was able to fit the entire PC directly behind the LCD.. I ran the GPS and the Wifi up under the plastic piece on the dash.. I also installed a manual reset button / power on button..

Pics to follow:

Measuring space..


Test fitting enclosure, turns out it worked better turned the other direction.


Empty button alll the way to the left is where I mounted my reset button.


Test fitting case.


Overhead view.






PC Built (without cables)




LCD Installed.






]]> Show off your project tbird2340 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137365-2007-dodge-nitro-carpc.html BMW 335xi E90 install... on a budget http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137313-bmw-335xi-e90-install-budget.html Mon, 16 Nov 2009 02:57:56 GMT 56K WARNING! --- A.D.D. WARNING!

So about 5 years ago I joined up this forum for the first time, fished for plenty of data, and ended up with an Impreza install "on a budget" (still linked in my sig). Which was fun and all, and I loved it while it lasted.

Then I upgraded the car. For reasons better left undiscussed (mostly revolving around a retarded dealer) I decided against getting another Subaru, and somehow ended up with a 335xi. I didn't want iDrive, since from everything I've read it's somewhat limited and, worse, slow (apparently the 2009 one is better), but I couldn't live without nav/music, right? I got by on the USB adapter, which at least let me play plenty of music off a USB key, but that couldn't last. Some may wonder, wtf is wrong with me stripping apart a BMW - well... no one on this forum would ask such a dumb question. Right? :) So here we go again, a E90 install "on a budget" (okay, that line sounded much less of an oxymoron with a Subaru).

I started off by looking for a way to mount the LCD. I'll skip ahead and say that the solution is not ideal - sadly, there's absolutely no way to make it look stock without MAJOR work. I looked at 2DIN offerings, and there ARE kits to dump the factory radio and move the climate controls to the centre armrest ... but ... since I have the fancy Logic7 sound system, I lose ALL sound if I do that (the stock radio is REQUIRED for Logic7). Fail. Another option was to get a $400-$600 kit from Japan that relocates the radio below the glovebox or to the trunk; that seemed like not a bad idea, but, on the other hand, that's $400-$600 + shipping and taxes - and that's kind of ridiculous. If I were willing to go that route, I'd just have gotten a Pioneer AVIC-Z3 and be done with it. And where's the fun in that, right?

So I went with a Cuda mount. They're mostly used for cell phones and GPS devices, and I actually used it with an iPAQ GPS for a few months - it works very well. But it was obviously insufficient, since it was just a GPS.

So I sourced myself some parts. First, the monitor: I am using a Xenarc 705TSV, courtesy of Xenarc. Although the monitor isn't LED backlit, which I would like, it does have one feature which is absolutely a godsend: it has a single cable from a breakout box, available at up to 15ft lengths, which carries everything: video, USB, sound, etc. This is how monitors should be made, since this allows you to run a single wire and deal with everything in the trunk. Hardly what I had with the good old Lilliput in the Subaru. One massive shortcoming of this monitor, however, is the type of cable used. It uses a totally custom 20-pin 3M "MDR" (mini-D-ribbon) connector; for which it is impossible to get a female plug aftermarket. Read that again. This means that if you want to build your own extension, you are out of luck. This was the case for me - since my dash is *very* tightly integrated, I wanted to run a 0.5ft extension made of a ribbon cable and the stock cable from there onto to the trunk; having spent hours upon hours on digi-key.com, I have come to realise that for whatever reason, there are no solderable female plugs for 20-pin MDR. Boardmount, wallmount, ceiling mount, rackmount, sure, whatever you want - but pure pin solders? Sorry, male only. And since the pinout is completely custom, it's impossible to get an extension on the 'net: not only does nobody make one, but even if they did, there's at least 4-6 pins out of 20 used for USB, RCA video and other randomness. So forget it. A word of advice to Xenarc - PLEASE use a more normal connector. Doesn't have to be VGA or DVI, obviously, since you don't want people plugging in strange cables - but please think of the installers.

Another feature I would like to have seen on the monitor is quicker auto-off: right now, when I shut off the engine, it stays on, saying "no signal found" until the power supply cuts power outright. But aside from that - you can't go wrong with this screen. Highly recommended.

On to the power supply, courtesy of the guys at Carnetix. I searched around for a while, and saw some people just use a capacitor instead of a true p/s... suppose it makes sense, but I felt like I should do it "properly". As far as I can tell, this P1900 is the only power supply that can do 19V, which is what I need for the computer I chose - so it was a no-brainer. It's great that it also has a secondary DC out for the monitor, so I don't have to break my head trying to source a second power wire, second fuse, etc. etc. etc.

Finally, the computer itself. Last time, I spent massive amounts of time sourcing a VIA motherboard (couldn't get one locally), 3.5" HD, etc., and a case - which was the much harder thing to do. I built a Plexiglass one at first, which was a stupid idea, and eventually moved to a normal mini-ITX case, which was a bit of a better idea, but it was still huge. We're obviously in 2009, so technology has advanced... I saw an EEE Box in store, and I thought "THIS is going to be my Car PC". It is absolutely the best thing since sliced bread for car PCs - the footprint is almost zero, you can fit it into a glove (not a glovebox even) and it has sufficient power to do most of the things a car PC is supposed to do. So that's what I went with. The hard disk in mine was a puny 80GB, so I upgraded it to 320 - but I am totally not on the whole SSD bandwagon. I always go back to saying that my previous car survived for over 4 years with a 3.5" desktop HDD, so a 2.5" laptop drive should last just fine (then again... my suspension is much stiffer now. So we'll see.)

So here I was, with a fullly working car PC ... on my desk. It was time to take the plunge, strip the car bare and start putting this into action. I'll admit I was somewhat hesitant - I opened up a few bits and pieces of the car so far, and I never cease to be amazed at HOW integrated everything is. Everything is compartmentalized, there's separators between everything, no space is wasted - in short, I felt like I wouldn't find ANY SPACE to do what I needed to do. So I read a bunch of threads about people installing other things, gathered up some courage (okay, it IS a regular car, after all - it's not like I'm disassembling a hand-built McLaren or something) and set out to it.

I started off by taking off the front bezel and the radio/climate control bezel. The goal was to run the monitor wire down the center console, alongside the driveshaft and into the trunk.









Sadly... I ran into an interesting challenge. The pics don't show it, but I was unable to rip off the radio/climate controls. I got the upper part of the climate control faceplate off halfway, and the rest just would not budge. An hour later and ten fingertips fewer, I decided to abandon this idea. This was reinforced by my (successfully) disassembling the driveshaft, and realising that ... there's no place to run the wire through it. Unlike the Subaru, which had a huge plastic case and cube-meters of empty space inside, here everything was compartmentalized. So ... I couldn't really find any space to run the wire. Doh.

It was time for plan B. I did a rough estimage, and realised that 15ft of cable length should, in fact, be JUST about enough to run the cable sideways along the dash, down the passenger side of the dash, along the footwell and along the edge of the car, to the trunk - along with all the other kilometres of wiring that went there. So here we go, plan B.

Before that, though, quick aside: this time, I didn't want to cut any wires in any harnesses to harvest power, etc., so I did it "properly": observe the fuse tap in the centre top of the picture.


Btw... see that red long thingie below the picture? It's a freaking FUSE REMOVER. No more fingernail breakage! I love German engineering. I will return to amazing German engineering a few times throughout this writeup - it's not meant as showoff (and anyway, CAN'T, since I'm not a German engineer. Haha). Anyway, I doubt anybody will actually read much of this text, seeing as most people click on these links for pictures. Moving along, then.


So that's what it looks like with the wire sticking out and the aluminum face bezel removed. The weird black thing on the dash is the Cuda mount. We will return to it later.

I had three wires to run: ignition + (this is what is going to the fuse tap), monitor and USB. I also ran a wire that isn't connected anything - I need to install a power switch, and don't want to open up the whole car again. So the wires will go down this...

(this is the view down the rightmost vent - notice the bloody TWO INCHES of sound insulation! and I thought my damn Dynamat counted for something)

Curve on the right side of this...


Along this...


Along this, right past that relay is a hole that leads in the back to the trunk...


And come out right about here.


Notice the clean trunk and how BMW was kind enough to avoid giving us useless things like "spare tires" which simply take up too much space and prevent you from setting up a proper car computer in the trunk. Pssht.


Notice the BEAUTIFUL ****ING BATTERY.


Can you believe that? It looks like a piece of art, with all that protective plastic on it, etc. I almost couldn't think of where to tap into (there are THREE positive prongs on it). Anyway, having stripped the car of the rear seat, side moldings and various other pieces, I wasn't about to stop at something so banal. Moving on.

So the test fitting was okay. Computer powered up OK, screen worked, etc. It was now time to do a bit of hardware modding, since neither the monitor nor the EEE was ready to be installed ... quite yet.

I'll skip over the cable soldering - most of the cables you see in the trunk pic are custom soldered, since I had to make a new power cable for both the monitor and the EEE, etc. It wasn't the hardest part. The hardest part, by FAR, was the audio wire - running it, not making it - but we'll come back to that.

First, EEE modding: I decided to remove the outer casing, since it's not really useful by virtue of it being purely decorative, and not really protecting anything. There's a perfectly functional metallic shell around it, which also makes it look much more "automotive". If it was actually attached with metal brackets, I bet nobody would even think that it's not stock equipment. Right now its position on a fluffy velvety padding kind of gives it away. Anyway - thanks to Pixelgazer's Mazdaspeed6 install, I got the idea to modify the EEE power switch a bit. I needed to make it listen to the Carnetix' "on/off" signal; a simple two wire solder onto the power switch. Unless you are retarded, that is, which I found out I was.

This is the EEE Box motherboard:


And this is the mod I did:


Now, you can't see this in the pic, but see that golden-ish stripe to the right of the soldered wires? Right, that's ground. So when solder leaks onto that and shorts, that creates a perpetual "ON" switch. I didn't trust my multimeter when I tested it (no matter whether the switch was on or off, it would register 0 ohm resistance, instead of infinity - I just figured "it has to be like that"). So when I hooked it up to the car, OBVIOUSLY it would power up, and power off immediately. Try pressing and holding your PC power switch - that will happen. Lesson: trust the multimeter. Don't be retarded. The other side of the 2 wires was soldered onto a two-pin jumper assembly that will plug into the 2-pin ACPI lead of the Carnetix.

Next up is the monitor. Since the stock mounting assembly was dumb - it's this octopus-like foot which glues onto stuff - I decided to make a custom mount. Sadly, I couldn't find anything that fit it snugly, until I realised that I should just use the provided screws on the back of the screen... and so, this came out:


That's a Plexiglass plate (yes, I think I have a Plexiglass fetish (cf. my story about my first-generation Subaru case)) screwed onto the Cuda mount, and screwed onto the monitor from the other side. My holes didn't quite line up, but nothing a bigger drill bit wouldn't fix. Awesome.

So now it was time to go back to the car, hook up the audio and get the whole thing in motion. NUH-UH. YOU WISH. I swear to God, running this audio cable was the hardest thing in the *****ing universe. Nothing, and I repeat, NOTHING so far made me sweat, swear and break my fingers so much. Observe the battlefield:



The wire is supposed to go from the rear of that centre console in the centre of the picture, underneath the carpet, out from under the seat, across and into the trunk. Yes, except the stupid carpet, in accordance with BMW building standards, is like 3 feet thick. Maybe slightly less but certainly not much less. And it's FLUSH against the floor. Sure, if I removed all the seats, I'm sure it would be removable (with a crowbar), but I didn't want to do that, so I tried fishing underneath it. An hour later and almost me giving up, I managed to do it. Other side came out from the center armrest, going into the AUX IN of the car:



The evil cable:


Job done:


And so, it was done. Final look:



Thus ends phase 1. I still have the GPS, maybe OBDII and other wiring to hook up... but at this point, it should all be clear sailing.

We'll see what Centrafuse 3.0 is like... thanks for reading even part of this hugeass rant, and much respect. =) ]]> Show off your project Pseudo Nim http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137313-bmw-335xi-e90-install-budget.html Mini Cooper with Sat dish/CarPC/HDSwitcher http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137215-mini-cooper-sat-dish-carpc-hdswitcher.html Thu, 12 Nov 2009 00:17:25 GMT This is what you get when you put in a Satellite Uplink, a HD switcher, a HD Instant Replay box, and a CarPC in a Mini Cooper Clubman We recently completed the build out of this Clubman for our client NewTek. They specialize in small compact TV Production Studio in a Box solutions... This is what you get when you put in a Satellite Uplink, a HD switcher, a HD Instant Replay box, and a CarPC in a Mini Cooper Clubman








We recently completed the build out of this Clubman for our client NewTek. They specialize in small compact TV Production Studio in a Box solutions so putting together a demo car in a MINI seemed like the best fit.
Basically we built out a complete television production truck (normally 52' long semi trailer) in a Mini Cooper Clubman.

You can see some of their press tour pics and video here
www.streamordie.com


I am sure you guys have lots of questions. I will do my best to answer them so feel free to ask away.

A list of the mods/addons/stuff we did....

1.Installed IPBased Satellite Uplink System

2.Designed and Installed custom rack to house a NewTek XD300 HD switcher and NewTek 3Play Instant Replay unit along with Satellite controller/modem and a 24” HD monitor.

3.Designed/Installed Secondary power system consisting of
a.3000 watt 12vdc to 120vac pure sine wave invertor
b.120vac AutoTransfer switch to automatically switch to shore power when car is plugged in
c.Large Backup Battery giving 1 hour of run time for complete system without car running
d.Independent 12vdc feeds to Alarm/GPS system
e.12vdc feed to CarPC independent from car battery
f.Remote power on CarPC from Alarm Keyfob or authorized iPhone/web browser
g.Feed Cradlepoint Wireless access point router

4.Installed motorized actuators for moving rack in/out along with LCD monitor up/down

5.Installed 2 x 15.3” LCD flip down VGA monitors for back seat operators of the Switcher and Replay units. This had to be done without removing the existing sunroof over those seats.

6.Installed Hardware interfaces for XD300 and 3Play on back of front seats

7.Installed 7” LCD monitor in place of rear view mirror since driver could not see out of rear window

8.Installed Rear view camera for 7” LCD rear view mirror

9.Built and installed CarPC running Centrafuse front end for GPS, music, video and remote control of car accessories such as the actuators on the rack.

10.Installed 16x32 SDI video router

11.Installed Video Patch panel behind license plate in back so the car can be operated completely closed in case of bad weather or heat. (They are from Texas like us)

12.Built and installed custom Satellite cowling to minimize air drag.

13. Installed advanced Alarm with GPS tracking capability and remote control



I will be finishing up the blog site with lots more pictures and video shortly.

Enjoy,

Jef ]]> Show off your project pizazz http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/137215-mini-cooper-sat-dish-carpc-hdswitcher.html mp3 to car stereo cable http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136964-mp3-car-stereo-cable.html Sun, 01 Nov 2009 20:19:54 GMT I have followed "Moonshiner's" advice and made a cable using mp3 headphone jack, soldered it to 4 (26 gauge) individual speaker wires, then inserted them into the back of my Pioneer car stereo. I followed the pinout suggested by Moonshiner, and had R+, R-, L+ and L-. I used 26 gauge butt splices, crimped them to the wire ends and then inserted them onto the individual pins sticking out from the blue plug on the back of the car stereo. They fit snuggly, with some effort. When I turn on the mp3 player (Sansa) and select 'CD' from my stereo, I can NOT get the device to play through the car stereo CD channel.
Did I do something wrong, is it possible to do what I am attempting? I was excited to avoid all the gadgets to make my mp3 player work.
Thank you. ]]> Show off your project diesel_greg http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136964-mp3-car-stereo-cable.html 2008 Scion xB w/ Mac OS 10.6 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136887-2008-scion-xb-w-mac-os-10-6-a.html Wed, 28 Oct 2009 19:09:42 GMT In the next few days, I'm going to be getting started on a project that may prove to be a little over my current abilities. However, I feel that with the vast amount of technical knowledge that I've seen available on this site, I may just be able to get this done without too many issues.

I have a 2008 Scion xB that I'm about to install a new JVC KW-NX7000BT head unit into. This unit has a 7" screen with GPS installed in it. I realized that with the available inputs, I could attempt to put my Mac Mini in my car, and began researching how to make this work. I was overly pleased to find this site and see that many had already done this, and surprisingly even with an xB.

I have the previously mentioned head unit
Mac Mini
Bluetooth keyboard
Bluetooth mouse
Carnetix P1900
Carnetix P5V
Carnetix MacPac Wiring
Pac SWI-X steering wheel interface
H-squared mini shelf

Since I'm not overly concerned with updating the current speaker setup and adding sub woofers, I should need to worry about amps. Am I correct in assuming this?

Thanks for looking and any help given! ]]> Show off your project phishfan73 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136887-2008-scion-xb-w-mac-os-10-6-a.html <![CDATA[1984 Renault Fuego 8" laptop carpc]]> http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136830-1984-renault-fuego-8-laptop-carpc.html Sun, 25 Oct 2009 23:12:49 GMT Hi, I'm Nelson of Argentina, I have a Renault Fuego 84



and install a CarPC build with a notebook HP Omnibook X3, a lcd 8" and some things more.

The text is translated by google, so I apologize if something is not understood. I make a summary of foulbrood did, and it was hard work.

First, a picture of the notebook with the screen broken, so the idea of using it for the project:



After disarming the whole note, cut the base to the minimum required:



With an aluminum, assemble the base and lid:







add some connectors, the idea is to use the minimum number of connectors:



and this is the finished base with all placed:



Then comes the cover, which bears the keyboard and touchpad



some cuts in the middle



A little ingenuity and hammer in hand









The case paint ready to send



After painting, all armed









As I can not tuchscreen screen, I monitored via a joystick, so this:



step to this:



and finished this one:



Now follow the screen is a little big and not within the dashboard, so I had to make a stand, and by the way, I can easily extract:



Testing support in paper



And from paper to aluminum



testing set



After painting, testing in the car



working ok:



And this is the idea to place a keyboard



Missing a lot to do and add, now I'm working on a new control, which publishes in the relevant section when completed.

We also publish the skin, which I did based on the Elite lite 1.1 and take some things from other skins, I did this especially to be used without touchscreen.

In youtube some videos http://www.youtube.com/Fuegomp3

If you want to see the complete work, visit my website www.fuegomp3.com.ar there are several that did, including the first mp3 in 2000, and since the beginning of mp3.com: D

Greetings,
Nelson ]]> Show off your project Fuegomp3 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136830-1984-renault-fuego-8-laptop-carpc.html M800-project ATOM http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136489-m800-project-atom.html Fri, 16 Oct 2009 14:54:18 GMT hey guys, after lots of thinking i decided to build a carputer.. went through the forum pretty well, and without any manly support i started building it. succeeded installing it :)

here are the technical specifications :

intel atom 1.6ghz
lilliput eby 701 7" touch
mercury mini itx DAZZLE
seagate 500gb HDD
transcend 2GB 667
m2-atx 160W power supply
belkin usb gps
bluetooth 2.0
i ball usb hub
globalsat usb gps





]]> Show off your project napster http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136489-m800-project-atom.html Honda GE6 Fit http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136487-honda-ge6-fit.html Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:37:08 GMT Hi, this is my humble setup. VGA LCD Speedpad control Steering Media Audio Controls ( For WMP) Hi, this is my humble setup.

VGA LCD


Speedpad control


Steering Media Audio Controls ( For WMP)


CarPC

- Wireless Keyb
- Bluetooth GPS
- Huawei 3G
- Fusion Brain (Integrate with Steering Controls)

PC Power buttons


Unpositioned USB Hub
]]> Show off your project miantiao http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136487-honda-ge6-fit.html 2003 ford ranger http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136471-2003-ford-ranger.html Thu, 15 Oct 2009 22:57:01 GMT computer is nothing fancy just an old micro atx gateway desktop from around 2003 powered by a M2 atx 160w and put into a plexiglass box. Computer was free thats why i went with it. monitor is a xenarc 700IDT that i gutted out of its shell and mounted into my dash. sorry for the crappy cell phone... computer is nothing fancy just an old micro atx gateway desktop from around 2003 powered by a M2 atx 160w and put into a plexiglass box. Computer was free thats why i went with it.
monitor is a xenarc 700IDT that i gutted out of its shell and mounted into my dash.
sorry for the crappy cell phone pics.


computer is stuffed behind drivers seat. not much room in this tiny pick up

runnin xp

for a front end im running RR with the new eLite skin
mouse and keyboard im running GRemote software that allows me to use my HTC touch pro 2's keyboard and gsensor (or touch screen) as a mouse and keyboard. pretty sweet i think.
also can tether data from my phone.
also considering trying out a slingbox to get cable tv on this thing.

nothing fancy but it works well and im happy with it. let me know you think ]]> Show off your project mm87 http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136471-2003-ford-ranger.html My new BMW E90-E93 Double-DIN Bezel... http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136326-my-new-bmw-e90-e93-double-din-bezel.html Sat, 10 Oct 2009 16:56:23 GMT Anyone interested in a carputer specific bezel for a 7" or 8" LCD?





Pioneer AVIC-Z110BT in my 09 BMW 335i coupe (E92).
Close
You need to upgrade your Flash Player








]]> Show off your project srcstc http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136326-my-new-bmw-e90-e93-double-din-bezel.html 2004 F-250 SuperDuty http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136259-2004-f-250-superduty.html Wed, 07 Oct 2009 18:34:27 GMT This is my first install after a few years of checkin out this site. Still have some tweaking to do and of course other things i want to add, but it is up and running and got me smiling for now at least...Here are some pictures of what i have done so far. My next step is getting some carpet to... This is my first install after a few years of checkin out this site. Still have some tweaking to do and of course other things i want to add, but it is up and running and got me smiling for now at least...Here are some pictures of what i have done so far. My next step is getting some carpet to match my interior and wrap the box. I am going to try to mould the monitor into the dash eventually, but haven't attempted to tackle that as I have no fabrication experience. Let me know what you all think...

Testing the power supply with 12v jumper pack


Everything laid out runnin off 12v power


Seats out and runnin wires


Wood case to go between seats


Front view of case


Installed between seats


View from back seat


Navigation screen


RR with iDrive skin
]]> Show off your project azlunchbox http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136259-2004-f-250-superduty.html My 2004 Ford F-150 install http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136253-my-2004-ford-f-150-install.html Wed, 07 Oct 2009 12:23:00 GMT Here is my project from last year. This is actually my 2nd "truckputer", the first one was waaay back in 1987. I wanted to keep it simple and get the most bang for my buck. I also wanted to go back to stock pretty easily. This replaces the stock ashtray in my F-150, there was quite a bit of room for the PC behind it.


System Specs:
Intel mini-itx w/ 1.6GHz Atom 512MB RAM
80GB PATA HDD(pull from 4yr old dead laptop)
Crystalfontz CFA635 LCD
USB WiFi adapter
Ubuntu 8.10 Server OS
M3-ATX power supply
Custom enclosure


Features/Software:
Custom UI for LCD: Frontend for mpg123, asterisk, and wifi
OpenVPN to home network over WiFi
Asterisk for VoIP
Aircrack-ng

Construction/Install Pics

MB and templates for mounting and faceplate.


Fiberglass mold for LCD faceplate.


Faceplate out of mold.


Case assembly (mostly fiberglass)


Faceplate assembly (contains LCD, mic, power switch and HDD LED)


Finished faceplate, layup of 1 ply of carbon fiber just to try to match the OEM faux CF interior trim.


Finished case assembly


Completed, ready to install


Enclosure - rear


FM Modulator for audio thru factory stereo


Enclosure installed


Completed installation ]]> Show off your project cirrus_ http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/show-off-your-project/136253-my-2004-ford-f-150-install.html