Help With rear seat install, lots of pictures

sporty_drew · 08-27-2007, 12:39 AM

I have a regular mdf box that i've built for my 98 Camaro, but it doesn't seem to be doing it for me. I'd like to make something new, whether it be fiberglass or mdf doesn't matter to me. My current box is 17 inches deep on the bottom, 15 inches deep on the top, 7 inches tall in back, 4 inches tall in front, and 37 inches wide. I'd like to not go too wild and try to follow the interior lines because i want it to look somewhat like stock. the sub will have to be mounted inverted due to space and i like it this way. Pretty much i need to find a way to blend the box to the sides of the car. So heres the pictures and I'm open to ANY ideas. Thanks

With both Amps

Here is how close the box is to my t-tops (sorry only had my phone on me)

kazzxtrismus · 08-31-2007, 11:48 AM

FG is the only way to do it cheap and quick.
it will still have a MDF box inside it.
but the FG will make it blend...etc
dish it over the side panels and you will lose the 6x9 holes...but put em back into the new box.

kinda sucky not having the room.

this idea is under the assumtion you want to keep the OE spot for your T's.

sporty_drew · 08-31-2007, 01:10 PM

Quote: Originally Posted by kazzxtrismus

FG is the only way to do it cheap and quick.
it will still have a MDF box inside it.
but the FG will make it blend...etc
dish it over the side panels and you will lose the 6x9 holes...but put em back into the new box.

kinda sucky not having the room.

this idea is under the assumtion you want to keep the OE spot for your T's.

i was thinking of fiberglassing up to the edge about 1 inch from the weatherstriping where the side panels kind of bend. But i might just go all the way to the edge. I'm also thinking that i'll keep the subs and amps mounted the same and keep everything on the same plane (not mold up to amps)

Loosing room is a fair trade for what the car is

lol

The far rear speakers are 4 inchers, but i have absolutly no rear fill

And yes I want to keep my OEM spot for my t-tops, that way i can still access the carputers

BiGGy · 09-07-2007, 06:48 AM

If this is only for aesthetics just modify your old box. Take the carpet off, mask up, take your molds on each side (bonding it to the mdf at the same time), trim to where you want it, fleece over, glass and re-carpet. It will give that snug fit look and is a good fg job for a first timer.

sporty_drew · 09-07-2007, 07:24 AM

Yea i was thinking along those lines Biggy, but i might end up doing a whole rear seat install (idea on last page of my worklog)

sporty_drew · 09-08-2007, 08:00 PM

Right now i'm looking to make the box look like this and have 2 subs in it.

then i will make a false floor for my amps. (black outline is where cuts/seams will be)

It'll hinge open like this ( still working on a hinging setup)

And the amps will set underneath ( most likely 3). I want to have the "floor" that they are mounted on then motor up a few inches to reveal the entire amps.

Sorry about the photoshops, best i could do. What do you guys think?

BiGGy · 09-08-2007, 08:46 PM

That sub box is 100% mdf i think, it shouldnt be to hard to make if your good with woodworking. That box is very shallow and is probably the reason why theres only one sub. Two subs will require a larger capacity enclosure to get any real noticeable difference. There could be a ported solution too.

The floor shouldn't be to hard either, cut up the existing board add some hinges and stops, a floor for the amps, maybe a opening handle and then recarpet.

sporty_drew · 09-08-2007, 08:55 PM

i can get a little over 3^ft of airspace. (plenty for 2 x's or r's) I'll have to go look at my measurements i took a long time ago. I want everything motorized so no handles

I'm having trouble visualizing how i would finish off the false floor where it meets the front seats.

sporty_drew · 09-08-2007, 09:51 PM

Bottom view

I want to make it open like this and use a linear actuator to pull the lines on the end down or maybe something else. any idea?

kazzxtrismus · 09-11-2007, 09:21 PM

hinge them then have the linear pull the 2 ends together over a pulley.
"a small pc of rope over a pully" is the idea im talking about...maybe a pillowblock and shaft with a "lobe" on it.

why not remove the back seat all together...replace with 1 bucket seat...put an amp and sub on each side of the new bucket??

to FG that with a basic fabbed box is no harder... just more ribs.

costs about the same too...and looks waaay hotter!

sporty_drew · 09-11-2007, 10:49 PM

not to sure i'm following what your saying bout 1 bucket seat.

I want the sub or subs in back for the gain in output as jason and i have said. I also want to put my amps in the floor and have them motorize out for that factory look and that wow look.

I was thinking about either the linear with the pully or some type of a servo setup. i'm going to have to do some more research on that. i have my window motors and arms out of my monte for the amp floor.

I think i've figured out that i want to have a cubby behind each seat that'll be hidden when the seats are back for my computers. I can't decide on how to bring the box down once i reach the front. should i bring it down right along the front seats or down where the front of the back seats are so that i still have some storage and can adjust my front seats?

travisroy74 · 09-11-2007, 11:44 PM

From experience if you can put your subs in the camaro at the far back of the car, you basically are making a horn with the rear of the car. 2~ 10's in the lower portion of the hatch well with a crapload of power is capable of impairing your vision. 2~12's need a box that sits flush with the hump over the fuel tank. If I remember right (its been 10 years) you can remove the spare tire because you cant get to it anyways with the sub box in the last set of pics. Using 'glas you can use this area and some of the area on the opposite side to make the box wider and therefore lower. Keeps the subs farther out of theives eyes if you build some grills covered in acoustically transparent carpet.

sporty_drew · 09-11-2007, 11:51 PM

i'd really like to keep my spare tire. i wouldn't mind pulling the box if need be. I was thinking along the same lines with the acoustically transparent carpet for looks. i needn't worry about them being seen by passer byers.

travisroy74 · 09-11-2007, 11:56 PM

Look into the drivers side panel in the rear. You could build an amp rack that uses this space where the factory sub would be if you had one. I see you have t-tops, I think I remember us building a single 12 build that just used the very bottom part of the well, where the well "steps" down for a sub enclosure and then re-mounting the t's (with some foam between them) on the flat part above the fuel tank. Very stealth look but the box size may be a bit small, and you can still get that spare out.

BTW we used the well as the enclosure and just faced it with a baffle board, did it all the time and it worked every single time. This not only was less materials, but the bass was transferred through the chassis enough to make you feel the bass that much more. Sounds kinda hokey but we also built an IASCA championship winning car, we're no backyard hacks.

sporty_drew · 09-12-2007, 10:57 AM

Quote: Originally Posted by travisroy74

Look into the drivers side panel in the rear. You could build an amp rack that uses this space where the factory sub would be if you had one. I see you have t-tops, I think I remember us building a single 12 build that just used the very bottom part of the well, where the well "steps" down for a sub enclosure and then re-mounting the t's (with some foam between them) on the flat part above the fuel tank. Very stealth look but the box size may be a bit small, and you can still get that spare out.

BTW we used the well as the enclosure and just faced it with a baffle board, did it all the time and it worked every single time. This not only was less materials, but the bass was transferred through the chassis enough to make you feel the bass that much more. Sounds kinda hokey but we also built an IASCA championship winning car, we're no backyard hacks.

That sounds like a very interesting setup. would that amp rack have room for my 2 amps? i'm most likely going to end up with 3.

I think i found how to bring the box forward to the seats. This would mean i could only motorize the doors open and maybe the amps up (most likely not)

I could mount my subs here but i'd lose output and the clean look. (tho this looks great!)

I can't have the floor sit flush all the way back because it just wont follow the lines of the interior. What do you guys think about the first pic and putting my door/amp rack design in it?