So with the 300c I wanted the monitor to be at eye level. I'm not a fan of monitors that are installed in lower radio locations. Due to the fact I have to look away from the road to see whats on the monitor. So the ac/ vents had to go. I relocated the clock and the esp/haz button to the middle of the bezel were the radio used to be.
This is the oem bezel in a stock 300c
Here it is mock up to be molded into the bezel.
here is the bezel filled in with abs plastic and a layer of bondo and spot fill putty sanded to 150 grit. I also molded two usb ports under the clock to charge phone, thumb drive transfers, 3g usb internet card or any other usb base device.
now shots of the bezel before primer/sealer and painted.
Now here is the finished bezel, painted to match the oem bezel color and the other trim parts inside of the car.(oem silver)
This is my new bezel for the 300c. It came out great. I put a good 4-5 hrs work time in this, cause I changed the positions of the buttons and esp buttons a few time. It should Have taken 2.5 hrs to get to the primer and paint stage. I will be installing it in the car in the next few days after I get all the streetdeck 2 software and other apps setup before install. Im working on the sub box and amp racks for the arcaudio amps. Here is a few shots of the equipment and cpu case, all arc audio
I actually have some input for you...
I think you might have some issues with putting the fan that close to the PSU. The PSU's wires are going to stick out of there and unless they're tied pretty tightly in the other direction, they're probably going to get brushed by the fan a bit. Also, they might cause some airflow issues...
Maybe you should turn the PSU or move it over a little bit?
I actually have some input for you...
I think you might have some issues with putting the fan that close to the PSU. The PSU's wires are going to stick out of there and unless they're tied pretty tightly in the other direction, they're probably going to get brushed by the fan a bit. Also, they might cause some airflow issues...
Maybe you should turn the PSU or move it over a little bit?
This carputer is the same setup I've had for 3 years and counting. I just took it out of my accord when I traded for the 300c. I have the wires the same as I did then. I never had an issue with it being to close to the power supply. it there to keep it cool. I have this hooked up the last three summers in hot heat 95+ and never over heated once. I did replace the opus 150 psu for a new opus 180psu. I had to put a slim line 80mmx15mm fan to replace the old 80mmx25mm one. Need more room to mount the power supply.
How do you fill those big gaps on either side of the clock and the monitor?
On the sides of the clock, I cut abs plastic to the size of the big gap and quick zap glue them in. The smaller gaps around the vga monitor bezel, I taped the front of the bezel with 3m green masking tape. I filled it in from the backside of the bezel with mar-glass filler ( short fiberglass hair putty/bondo). Then just peal the tape off after 20 minutes. The gaps are gone. Then I covered the bezel with light weight bondo. then sanded(blocked sand), filled any little imperfections after that.
I have a company that builds them for me. They are made to fit micro-atx boards. The mounting hardware inside the case is design to hold a 3.5 hdd with Hard drive shock-reducing suspension , opus 150 or the new 180psu. Custom slim clear-anodized aluminum Micro-ATX enclosure, designed for maximum cooling and air-flow.
Dimensions: 12.0x11.2" footprint, 11.2x11.2x3.7" box. I sell these case for $149.99
Very nice fabwork on the bezel man, looks hella tight. Where did you get that abs plastic to fill up those gaps? I'm digging the 2 usb ports on there.
I had some laying around from a old honda headunit kit. I used to get it in sheets of 12"x12"x 1/4", 1/8" for around $5- $10 depends on the thickness. I got mine from bestkits.com (aamp, stinger) I used to have a car audio shop, I would get all my kits and plastic from them.
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